Turbo Rough Idle & Stall

[BRZtoni]

So i just finished my fbm turbo kit
550CC injector and 270LPH fuel pump

i got it started today and it idles good for a moment then it starts
idling rough then stalls. usually happens when I'm accelerating the car.

i checked my injectors to make sure its all secured and plugged in.
i don't hear any vacuum leaks

i removed my EBCS and have my BOV and Wastegate connected to vacuum.
and problem still there.

what do you guys think could be the problem
I'm running the delcioustuning flash and go tune at the moment.

http://datazap.me/u/brztoni/log-1436...-9-12-13-14-28

heres a datalog i pulled, which was sent to delicious as well.

[IBill4You]

If your car isn't running correctly, and you've verified that your car is mechanically sound, then you need a revised tune.

[xxscaxx]

What PSI spring do you have in your BOV? you can rule out if the BOV is open at idle by just unplugging it (don't drive it), if the idle issue goes away then the BOV is not 100% closed at idle. Also a vacuum leak can cause this issue too. Make sure you go over all your vacuum lines with soapy water or check how much vacuum your car is pulling at idle to verify nothing is leaking.

[BRZtoni]

Originally Posted by xxscaxx

What PSI spring do you have in your BOV? you can rule out if the BOV is open at idle by just unplugging it (don't drive it), if the idle issue goes away then the BOV is not 100% closed at idle. Also a vacuum leak can cause this issue too. Make sure you go over all your vacuum lines with soapy water or check how much vacuum your car is pulling at idle to verify nothing is leaking.

i should have 7psi on the BOV i believe provided by Fullblown

[xxscaxx]

Originally Posted by BRZtoni

i should have 7psi on the BOV i believe provided by Fullblown

I know delicious recommends a 12psi BOV spring.

If you can, unplug the BOV, cap the line so it isn't a vacuum leak, then start the car up. Don't drive it, but let it idle and see if the idle issue goes away.

[BRZtoni]

Originally Posted by xxscaxx

What PSI spring do you have in your BOV? you can rule out if the BOV is open at idle by just unplugging it (don't drive it), if the idle issue goes away then the BOV is not 100% closed at idle. Also a vacuum leak can cause this issue too. Make sure you go over all your vacuum lines with soapy water or check how much vacuum your car is pulling at idle to verify nothing is leaking.

Originally Posted by xxscaxx

I know delicious recommends a 12psi BOV spring.

If you can, unplug the BOV, cap the line so it isn't a vacuum leak, then start the car up. Don't drive it, but let it idle and see if the idle issue goes away.

maybe i have it mixxed up in my head i think its 7psi for the wastegate and 12psi on BOV LOL..

but ill cap out the BOV when i get home and see how it starts and idle

[xxscaxx]

That sounds more familiar to me regarding DT recommendations. Have you contacted Bill or Zach to help track the issue? @DeliciousTuning

[BRZtoni]

Originally Posted by xxscaxx

That sounds more familiar to me regarding DT recommendations. Have you contacted Bill or Zach to help track the issue? @DeliciousTuning

i have contact @DeliciousTuning and they made sure i secured the DI housing ( heavy black housing over DI ) that its making ground to the engine and i removed it and secured it twice and still
having issues.

i gotta check the vacuum lines for leaks and BOV and cross fingers.

[djdnz]

Check vac pressure at idle. Do you have the correct MAF or MAP based on your tune? Also, don't mess with your wastegate signal - you don't want to overboost later if you forget to put it back, it shouldn't have anything to do with idle.

[BRZtoni]

Originally Posted by xxscaxx

That sounds more familiar to me regarding DT recommendations. Have you contacted Bill or Zach to help track the issue? @DeliciousTuning

Originally Posted by djdnz

Check vac pressure at idle. Do you have the correct MAF or MAP based on your tune? Also, don't mess with your wastegate signal - you don't want to overboost later if you forget to put it back, it shouldn't have anything to do with idle.

dumb question how do i check vac pressure at idle.

[xxscaxx]

You can use ECUtek, open your map up in the datalogger and check the current vacuum pressure, forgot what the parameter is called at the moment lol.

Or if you have a boost gauge it should be pulling vacuum and displaying it at idle.

[BRZtoni]

Originally Posted by xxscaxx

You can use ECUtek, open your map up in the datalogger and check the current vacuum pressure, forgot what the parameter is called at the moment lol.

Or if you have a boost gauge it should be pulling vacuum and displaying it at idle.

ill check it out later when i get home.

i really appreciate you trying to help me out..

[xxscaxx]

No problem man. Thats what we are all here for.

[nelsmar]

1. Your manifold pressure is super high for being idle... Its almost atmospheric pressure when it should be something like 0.3-0.45 bar at idle. You are over twice that... Turn the car off, then on (engine at 0RPM) and verify your manifold pressure is around 1 bar, it should nearly match your atmospheric pressure (which is listed in kpa so kpa/100 = bar). If not you have the incorrect scaling on your map sensor.

2. Talk to your tuner about the health of your car, not a bunch of idiots on a forum that are all guessing.

You have replaced your MAF housing, your injectors, your pump, and your manifold pressure sensor, and o2 sensor housing. You know... the majority of the equipment used to supply fuel to your vehicle.These all need to be carefully calibrated correctly and asking a bunch of random people on the internet is just second guessing your tuner and beating around the bush. You should be asking him/her what to adjust and verifying your components are correct. If you came here because your tuner is no longer helping you then you need another tuner. However I highly doubt that is the reason you are posting this thread.

You obviously have an issue considering your manifold pressure is well beyond 2x normal at idle, your stock o2 is maxing out on lean (as in it doesn't read fuel or is really running ungodly lean), your injector pulse width is very high at idle... none of this makes very much sense if the correct calibrations were entered into the tune.