11-01-2022, 10:55 AM | #4271 | |
Quote:
RCE T2s are a good choice. Vorshlag or Raceseng. Get yourself a new set of OEM rears. The Verus STX legal rear LCAs seem to be the way to go, though I have not tried the Whitelines personally which are also legal. Subframe bushings/inserts...not required, nice to have. Same with steering rack bushings. If your car is 9 years old definitely inspect ALL of your other suspension bushings and replace if needed. The big front control arm bushing for example. - Andrew |
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11-01-2022, 12:36 PM | #4272 | |
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Quote:
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show....php?p=3473027
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Also: "Build Thread" Last edited by Spuds; 11-01-2022 at 02:37 PM. |
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11-01-2022, 01:58 PM | #4273 | |
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Wheels:. I was initially thinking about going a bit more conservative with 17x8 to try out. Does width really make that much of a difference to justify the added rotating weight? I mean there's a case for maxing it out now I suppose...
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11-01-2022, 02:20 PM | #4274 | |
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Quote:
Bushing check is already on the to do list. The front LCA bushings seemed normal to me at least when I checked last month. Any other nice-to-have bushing mods I should look into?
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11-01-2022, 03:32 PM | #4275 | |
Quote:
Raceseng has a drop down on their website where you can pick RCE Tarmac to make sure everything lines up. For bushings, I generally don't like poly but you can't use spherical in STX unfortunately. So in most cases I would stick with good fresh OEM or maybe the hard to find STI Group N rubber if you can. Poly is great for inserts and swaybar bushings, I just don't love it for things that pivot. It's okay in the LCA too. - Andrew |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Racecomp Engineering For This Useful Post: | Spuds (11-01-2022) |
11-01-2022, 07:43 PM | #4276 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to strat61caster For This Useful Post: | Spuds (11-01-2022) |
11-02-2022, 12:04 AM | #4277 | |
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Quote:
On wheels, the added weight is minimal. If you want to save some money, sure you can grab 17x8 and some 225 or 235 tires. But, if you don't want to hamstring yourself in autocross, you'll need to run 17x9 with 245 tires. |
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Breezio For This Useful Post: | Racecomp Engineering (11-02-2022), Spuds (11-02-2022) |
11-02-2022, 02:25 AM | #4278 | |
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Well, I am hamstring-ing myself with less grippy DD street tires on purpose so there's that lol. Now I'm going to have to go find my rotating mass -power sink calculator again...
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11-03-2022, 11:33 PM | #4279 |
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Alright, so thanks again for the help folks, I really appreciate you all sharing your experience. I have a few more questions. But first, my current shopping list:
-RCE T2 -Vorshlag camber plates* see question below -New OEM rear top mounts -Verus LCAs ($$$ but they are so pretty I can't resist...) -22mm Perrin front and 16mm rear (yeah, I know, see question) -Whiteline subframe inserts -??? steering bushings Questions: Vorshlag: The images on RCE's site seem to show the spring perch for these as taller than stock. Does this eat into the bump travel available, and are there any issues when lowering the car ~20mm below stock on T2s? Edit: Talked to Myles about it and he was pretty confident (with numbers and examples) that bump travel would be fine. Rear sway: Why am I better off with stock rear sway? Is this a process thing, low benefit/cost, or is the rear sway considered the perfect rate? Endlinks? Stock, aftermarket, what actually matters? Anything important I missed?
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Also: "Build Thread" Last edited by Spuds; 11-04-2022 at 08:15 PM. Reason: Brevity and clarity and answers. |
11-04-2022, 01:24 AM | #4280 |
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Rear sway: cost. No reason to change it until you determine you need it to be stiffer… or softer, or it’s perfectly fine. Mann Engineering rear bar can be used to get softer rates then stock as well but unhooking the bar is cheaper.
Aftermarket endlinks are there to remove preload and allow you to split holes on the bar do you get more adjustment. |
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11-17-2022, 09:51 PM | #4281 |
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Nice, 299 pages to read, I'm currently on page 7.
My goal is a comfy and more capable 14 FRS commuter. Was looking at Tein Flex A's for hydraulic bump stops being I'm in the coastal section of the PNW, land of the sunken grade. I have some rear LCA's for lowering and camber bolts up front, just haven't utilized them yet. I would like to cut the wheel gap down a little bit, but still make it over speedbumps. I like the zero toe feedback, but what would be the F/R camber values for a daily driver. I do go find the twisties a lot, but I commute a lot more. I've had this car since new and still just love it all the time and just want to make it more fun, and still not have to wear a kidney belt to work. Last edited by jeepmor; 11-25-2022 at 10:26 PM. |
11-18-2022, 12:57 PM | #4282 | |
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02-07-2023, 01:35 PM | #4283 |
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02-18-2023, 01:28 AM | #4284 |
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@Racecomp Engineering
I have MCA Traction mods installed with HKS Hipermax 4GT 4k springs at the rear, and I find the rears too soft, and I bottom out very easily on speed bumps and roads if I go on them a little too fast. Before I had the MCAs installed, bottoming out was far more manageable - I am assuming that the MCAs have altered the motion ratio to lower than 0.75, effectively running even softer. Now, I have an option of changing those springs to 6k springs, matching the fronts to the rear. However my concern is that would it put me back right where I started in the first place without the MCAs? In the HKS manual, it is mentioned that an increase from 4k to 6k is 'possible', which I suppose they are referring where the damper is matched to the spring? I run UHP tyres, no plans to change to anything with higher grip for now. Thanks!
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