*** Aggressive wheels? Post them up! *** Thread

[VIP BRZ]

Originally Posted by drummerboy121494

Your car looks great!
Alright so I just did a bunch of calculating... To pull this off WITHOUT pulling my fender more I will need -15.5 degrees of camber in the rear and -16 up front. But it IS in fact doable. Took me kind of a while to figure out how I would calculate it but I got it. I would need new rear upper control arms as well as front lower control arms (possibly front upper as well). I think -16 is a little much for me though, I really would like less than -12 so I think with how I figured this out I will see what the max width I can run is and also look into pulling my fenders more. If I am able to pull both front and rear fenders 1" that will decrease the camber to -11.75 rear and -12.25 front. That is still VERY aggressive camber though... I guess we shall see!

drummerboy, your describing an impossible situation.. PLEASE do not order wheels in this size.



^^ This is a wheel at -12 camber (it takes extensive modification of nearly EVERY suspension piece to get this extreme)

simply would not fit into the stock wheel well .. you'd rub on the inside/outside.. everywhere

why are you set on a 13" wide wheel? Literally NO-ONE is running this wide. even the wide body guys stick to 12.5"

your nuts...

[evomike]

Originally Posted by drummerboy121494

Your car looks great!
Alright so I just did a bunch of calculating... To pull this off WITHOUT pulling my fender more I will need -15.5 degrees of camber in the rear and -16 up front. But it IS in fact doable. Took me kind of a while to figure out how I would calculate it but I got it. I would need new rear upper control arms as well as front lower control arms (possibly front upper as well). I think -16 is a little much for me though, I really would like less than -12 so I think with how I figured this out I will see what the max width I can run is and also look into pulling my fenders more. If I am able to pull both front and rear fenders 1" that will decrease the camber to -11.75 rear and -12.25 front. That is still VERY aggressive camber though... I guess we shall see!

there is absolutely no point to doing this setup and the car will be completely un derivable with that camber, but you should try it and post pictures.

[drummerboy121494]

Originally Posted by VIP BRZ

drummerboy, your describing an impossible situation.. PLEASE do not order wheels in this size.



^^ This is a wheel at -12 camber (it takes extensive modification of nearly EVERY suspension piece to get this extreme)

simply would not fit into the stock wheel well .. you'd rub on the inside/outside.. everywhere

why are you set on a 13" wide wheel? Literally NO-ONE is running this wide. even the wide body guys stick to 12.5"

your nuts...

It is mostly hypothetical, there are other issues with the setup other than rubbing and suspension mods, I just figured for the "Aggressive Wheels" thread it would be a good place to bring it up. GRANTED it would be awesome, but I am more looking for 18x11 -22, and then I was thinking "why not wider??" but with it also comes really expensive tires and the cost of an 18x13 custom wheel set up. The reason I was set on 13 is because, as far as I know, no one has done it without a wide body and I wanted to see if it was possible. But at the moment my budget will not allow for $6000+ set of wheels, $2300+ control arm set up, and $800+ tires. I'm trying to only buy wheels and not a bunch of supporting mods.


P.S. is that a pic of _k1ll1onaire_'s car? (don't mind the spelling, its probably wrong)

[drummerboy121494]

Originally Posted by evomike

there is absolutely no point to doing this setup and the car will be completely un derivable with that camber, but you should try it and post pictures.

If only my wallet would allow it...

[VIP BRZ]

Originally Posted by drummerboy121494

P.S. is that a pic of _k1ll1onaire_'s car? (don't mind the spelling, its probably wrong)

it is, he has since sold the car though. sadly

[oggoldfish69]

Originally Posted by Shinchu

Ok stock tires on 17x9.5 +20
Rear camber is all stock, sitting on pbm coils with front camber nearly stock.

Yes im going to drop it more and take better pics. Just got back from tire shop and snapped this pic.




*****
Ok took a couple days of hand tools in the street but... here she is!



But i have the slightest *clank* from my pbm lower arms. Anybody else have this problem? About to start a thread i think. Its slight but im scared to drive as hard as i usually do.

its gucci I have the same sound in my car and also my friend does too. Nothing to really worry about.

[Student Driver]

Originally Posted by oggoldfish69

its gucci I have the same sound in my car and also my friend does too. Nothing to really worry about.

I have the same issue AND HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO FIX IT! it drives me nuts! let me know if anyone finds a solution!

[wutangbrz]

Originally Posted by VIP BRZ

This is a wheel at -12 camber (it takes extensive modification of nearly EVERY suspension piece to get this extreme)

simply would not fit into the stock wheel well .. you'd rub on the inside/outside.. everywhere

I have -14 and I have not done any 'extensive' modification to get this far. There is a lot of ignorance surrounding this topic and i will clear the air on some of this. What I am saying has no relation to your conversation to the other guy regarding wheel fitment on widebody etc, I am just letting you know what it actually takes from a guy who has done such modifications.

extensive modification of EVERY suspension piece to get this extreme

- No. You can just purchase the Racer X rear UCA with the -14 option and you can get -14. direct swap with your OEM and max them out. -> http://racerxfabrication.com/frs-brz...r-control-arms . How do I know? Because I did this as well.

As for the fronts, I hit double digit negative camber up front with aftermarket camber plates, Racer X front LCA, and a camber bolt. Did not do any 'extensive modification' besides install new parts and adjust.

simply would not fit into the stock wheel well .. you'd rub on the inside/outside.. everywhere

For the fronts sure, this could be an issue with the clearance with your wheel to the strut. For the rear, you are only limited until you hit the frame as the coilover sits 'in between' both ends of the barrel nowhere close to the wheel where extreme camber would affect it. At -14 myself on a 10.5 +0, I'm nowhere near the frame/wall nor my coilover. No rubbing issues on the inside of the wheel well. The fender rubbing is a different story depending on what kind of fitment the person chooses to achieve.

I felt the need to address those two things.

Originally Posted by Shinchu

But i have the slightest *clank* from my pbm lower arms. Anybody else have this problem? About to start a thread i think. Its slight but im scared to drive as hard as i usually do.

When I had pbm rear lowers, my rears also made a small clunk noise. I never figured out what it was but I had never had issues and only ever heard it going over a bump or turning hard. My suspicions are that the endlink was binding on my pbm lca and made this clunking noise. Maybe a pair of aftermarket adjustable endlinks would solve this issue.

Now some updates on my car: wrapped the car myself and rocking a new set up and ditched the bags and I'm now static on BC coils 18kg/18kg

18x9.5 0 - 215/35 Federal SS595
18x10.5 0 - 225/35 Federal SS595

-10.5 front camber, -14 rear camber.
took my sidemarkers out as well, and now i can full lock without rubbing anything.

[VIP BRZ]

Originally Posted by wutangbrz

extensive modification of EVERY suspension piece to get this extreme

- No. You can just purchase the Racer X rear UCA with the -14 option and you can get -14. direct swap with your OEM and max them out. -> http://racerxfabrication.com/frs-brz...r-control-arms . How do I know? Because I did this as well.

Your on stock LCA's? and Endlinks?

Also, i don't really appreciate this is all sort of ... directed at me, the way you posted this.

Quoting me way out of context

I'm one of the only people of this forum that appreciate this style of build and the effort it takes to achieve..

Your post has a lot of great information, its a shame it had to be formatted like an "attack"

[NyC Zn6]

Originally Posted by wutangbrz

I have -14 and I have not done any 'extensive' modification to get this far. There is a lot of ignorance surrounding this topic and i will clear the air on some of this. What I am saying has no relation to your conversation to the other guy regarding wheel fitment on widebody etc, I am just letting you know what it actually takes from a guy who has done such modifications.

extensive modification of EVERY suspension piece to get this extreme

- No. You can just purchase the Racer X rear UCA with the -14 option and you can get -14. direct swap with your OEM and max them out. -> http://racerxfabrication.com/frs-brz...r-control-arms . How do I know? Because I did this as well.

As for the fronts, I hit double digit negative camber up front with aftermarket camber plates, Racer X front LCA, and a camber bolt. Did not do any 'extensive modification' besides install new parts and adjust.

simply would not fit into the stock wheel well .. you'd rub on the inside/outside.. everywhere

For the fronts sure, this could be an issue with the clearance with your wheel to the strut. For the rear, you are only limited until you hit the frame as the coilover sits 'in between' both ends of the barrel nowhere close to the wheel where extreme camber would affect it. At -14 myself on a 10.5 +0, I'm nowhere near the frame/wall nor my coilover. No rubbing issues on the inside of the wheel well. The fender rubbing is a different story depending on what kind of fitment the person chooses to achieve.

I felt the need to address those two things.



When I had pbm rear lowers, my rears also made a small clunk noise. I never figured out what it was but I had never had issues and only ever heard it going over a bump or turning hard. My suspicions are that the endlink was binding on my pbm lca and made this clunking noise. Maybe a pair of aftermarket adjustable endlinks would solve this issue.

Now some updates on my car: wrapped the car myself and rocking a new set up and ditched the bags and I'm now static on BC coils 18kg/18kg

18x9.5 0 - 215/35 Federal SS595
18x10.5 0 - 225/35 Federal SS595

-10.5 front camber, -14 rear camber.
took my sidemarkers out as well, and now i can full lock without rubbing anything.

Why did you ditch the bags?

[wutangbrz]

Originally Posted by VIP BRZ

Your on stock LCA's? and Endlinks?

Also, i don't really appreciate this is all sort of ... directed at me, the way you posted this.

Quoting me way out of context

I'm one of the only people of this forum that appreciate this style of build and the effort it takes to achieve..

Your post has a lot of great information, its a shame it had to be formatted like an "attack"

I did not mean for it to be an attack on you, I was just trying to be informative on the subject that not many people know about.

My apologies if it came off that way, wasnt my intention.

And yes, I took off my pbm LCA and went with using only uppers for camber. Using lowers stresses your axle multitudes more than using uppers. It got to the point where I had almost maxed my lowers while dialing my fitment, and my axle was about to pop out. And I am also on stock endlinks in the rear, for the front I am using the adjustable ones that come with BC coilovers.

Cheers

[wutangbrz]

Originally Posted by NyC Zn6

Why did you ditch the bags?

I just felt like going static. Bags were fun, but it got dull quick and having to constantly worry about leaks and dumping tank, getting new check valves, etc. Plus I plan on going functional later on when I put my widebody on, I find trying to track bags is kind of counterproductive even though airlift claims they can be tracked.

[Johnny.]

[Pat]

Super cool car, Johnny.. Bummer about the hardware store splitter supports, though.