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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing.


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Old 02-18-2014, 06:10 PM   #1
brz Islander
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After market LCA needed?

I currently have a swp brz, I have 18x9.5 gtv02s on the way which will be wrapped in 245/35 Front and 265/35 rear, followed up with fortune 500 coilovers. Im looking for a 1-1.5" drop, My question is for DD and possible track once or twice a year what would idea camber setup be?
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:23 PM   #2
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Be noted that when you go lower then 1.5 inches (height) other handling affects take place and needs if you want it to handle properly. All that said and if you're staying higher then -1.5 inches drop..why run same size tires all around ie : 255/35/18 ??
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:24 PM   #3
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There's no camber adjustment stock. When you drop the car, you'll find out how much it changes and it WILL change. So the question isn't whether or not you need an LCA, it's which LCA fits your need for 3 of camber and minor track duty if any. You will likely need some toe correction as well - you don't seem like you'd want to shell out for new adjustable toe links.

For your suggested use perhaps the SPC kit will fit: stamped steel just like stock arms except with an adjustable end and an offset bushing for the toe links to correct toe changes as well.
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:25 PM   #4
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So then I'm,looking at whiteline LCA and for the front chamber bolts and I should be good then


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Old 02-18-2014, 06:28 PM   #5
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So then I'm,looking at whiteline LCA and for the front chamber bolts and I should be good then


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Good choice on lca, pretty sure fortune coils have camber plates? If so shouldn't need camber bolts but they're cheap so sure grab em in case you can't get enough outta the plates.
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:54 PM   #6
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To parrot @OrbitalEllipses go with the SPC control arms. They're much much cheaper than whiteline and will serve the same purpose.
SPC = $208
Whiteline = $494

They do the same thing, SPC also has toe adjustment.

I have the SPC's and they're just fine - I don't see why anyone would want to spend more than twice as much on the whitelines... I guess they're pretty and gold? but honestly they're under your car.
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:38 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by rainmonkey View Post
To parrot @OrbitalEllipses go with the SPC control arms. They're much much cheaper than whiteline and will serve the same purpose.
SPC = $208
Whiteline = $494

They do the same thing, SPC also has toe adjustment.

I have the SPC's and they're just fine - I don't see why anyone would want to spend more than twice as much on the whitelines... I guess they're pretty and gold? but honestly they're under your car.
Dem Whitelines are very pretty and gold. But damn! If I'd known there were quality LCAs to be had at 200 bucks I'd have bought some by now!
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Old 02-19-2014, 01:00 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rainmonkey View Post
To parrot @OrbitalEllipses go with the SPC control arms. They're much much cheaper than whiteline and will serve the same purpose.
SPC = $208
Whiteline = $494

They do the same thing, SPC also has toe adjustment.

I have the SPC's and they're just fine - I don't see why anyone would want to spend more than twice as much on the whitelines... I guess they're pretty and gold? but honestly they're under your car.
I own the old style SPC arms and old style RacerX arms; next alignment (soon, fucking potholes) I'll be swapping to RacerX LCA with SPC toe arms as the SPC toe bushings didn't provide enough range. The SPC arms I have are also failure prone versus the RacerX arms I have: the mechanism SPC used is just an eccentric lobed bolt with a welded nut. The new style RacerX arms are pretty sick as well, but I see no reason to upgrade from the welded steel arms I have.
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Old 02-19-2014, 07:07 AM   #9
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sorry, not sure i understand, failure prone? how so?
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:47 PM   #10
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Has anyone had any luck with the Buddy Club P1 LCA?
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Old 02-22-2014, 08:58 AM   #11
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@brz Islander

I'm running Fortune Auto 500's and love them. My BRZ is planted, controlled, but subtle and smooth over bumps and rough roads. The ride is superior to stock in every way, which was also very good. Fortune's digressive piston, coupled with their custom valving and dyno matched sets makes these the best coilovers for the money IMO. If you do get Fortunes, I highly recommend the front bearing top hat, and potentially Swift spring upgrade. Also the only other coilovers near this price you might consider are the RS-R Blacks.

From what I've read, anything more than a 40mm drop negatively affects handling due to the changed suspension geometry. That being said, I liked the look of my car at 44mm (1.75") drop, so that is my current setup. So you know, the Fortune Auto 500's provide a 3" front drop and a 2" rear drop; more rear would be possible with Stance like LCAs.

At a 1.75" drop, my front camber was approx -1.5, and the rear was -2.9. Because this is my daily driver, I chose to run a factory spec alignment of -0.1 front and -1.2 rear. The Fortune front top camber plates had ample adjustment for this. The rear of course was a different story. The new SPC rear LCAs have more than enough camber adjustment, but the problem is rear LCAs mount at the rear of the hub, and as you push the top of the wheel out, you also push the toe out. Thus the most camber I was able to get with my toe maxed out was -2.4. So instead of raising my car or running more rear camber, I installed SPC rear toe arms, which provided the necessary adjustment for rear factory spec.

Yes the SPC LCAs come with toe bushings, but the cost to have the old bushings pressed out and the new ones pressed in would have almost equaled the $180 I paid for toe arms. Also toe arms are better for adjusting, and won't slip like the bushing can. I used to think people wasted their money on the whiteline rear bushing set, but reality is they adjust camber on the top control arm, and thus don't induce toe, like an LCA does. If doing it over, I might have gone with Whiteline bushings, but I do like the ease LCAs provide to return my car to stock on my own if I so desire.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OICU812 View Post
Be noted that when you go lower then 1.5 inches (height) other handling affects take place and needs if you want it to handle properly. All that said and if you're staying higher then -1.5 inches drop..why run same size tires all around ie : 255/35/18 ??
^What he said. Give my experiences and what I've read on the forums, my ideal setup with your 18x9.5 +40 wheels would be:
  • 1.5" lower.
  • 255/35/18 square.
  • Enough front camber to tuck the wheels under the wheel-well for appearance, handling, and compression clearance, which judging from other threads would be approx. -2.5.
  • Natural rear camber, which would be approx. -2.5. Not LCA's or Toe Arms necessary.
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