Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[B T]

I don't know, but it kind of looked like you could pull the connecters out, pull the wire through and re-crimp the connection.

[Swolzee]

Originally Posted by B T

I don't know, but it kind of looked like you could pull the connecters out, pull the wire through and re-crimp the connection.

Don't most of those connector pins go in/out the direction of the wire? That's always been my experience.
Then the problem is the white plug in the back. I'm not sure how to go about removing it and based on how easily the ground came loose I could certainly see other wires coming loose in my efforts.

Not knowing the size of any potential replacement pins or the tool to remove them without damage make this a dicey affair.

[brandonblt2]

Originally Posted by GPhilly

I know this is a super old post but can someone show me a photo of what their injectors looks like?

I am having idle issues and working with Zach to sort them out. I think it has to do with my stock injectors for PI. I really don't know what that means specifically but PI is used during idle before it switches over to DI when driving is what Zach told me.

Thanks.

Codes I have been getting recently are:
P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
P1170 Port injector fuel performance does not clear DTC

I had similar codes and issues. Depending on your mileage you may need to replace or at the very least clean both the port and direct injectors. Port injectors are easy to access with the kit on. Direct injectors require you to remove the supercharger to access. CSG offers a service to clean the injectors since replacing them is pretty expensive at about $900 for direct injectors and $600 for port injectors.

[GPhilly]

Originally Posted by brandonblt2

I had similar codes and issues. Depending on your mileage you may need to replace or at the very least clean both the port and direct injectors. Port injectors are easy to access with the kit on. Direct injectors require you to remove the supercharger to access. CSG offers a service to clean the injectors since replacing them is pretty expensive at about $900 for direct injectors and $600 for port injectors.

Interesting... I am assuming the port injectors the visible ones on the side of the motor?

Zach is narrowing it down to the MAF sensor, injectors or fuel pump. All of these components are still stock. It maybe related to my installation but not really sure.

My car is weird. On cold starts I have no issues at all. Its not until the car is warm and driven later on in the day when the studdering starts happening. Its a single jerk happening randomly (frequently) when on throttle. It fixes itself when the car sits for a few days and comes back when I drive it frequently. But it still throws the P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1 code...

My car has about 22k miles on it, which I would assume should have no issues since it being newer.

[brandonblt2]

Originally Posted by GPhilly

Interesting... I am assuming the port injectors the visible ones on the side of the motor?

Zach is narrowing it down to the MAF sensor, injectors or fuel pump. All of these components are still stock. It maybe related to my installation but not really sure.

My car is weird. On cold starts I have no issues at all. Its not until the car is warm and driven later on in the day when the studdering starts happening. Its a single jerk happening randomly (frequently) when on throttle. It fixes itself when the car sits for a few days and comes back when I drive it frequently. But it still throws the P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1 code...

My car has about 22k miles on it, which I would assume should have no issues since it being newer.

Yup those are the port injectors. With such little mileage on your car injectors should be fine. I had 180k on mine before I changed both port and direct injectors. Same goes for your MAF sensor and Fuel pump. Those components should be fine. You don't touch the fuel pump when installing the kit but you do relocate the MAF Senor. You can clean your MAF Sensor with MAF cleaner if you think it's dirty it's a cheap and easy fix.

I would check for vacuum leaks. Go around to each line and re tighten them and worm clamp them if they already aren't. I had the same symptoms. Where during the morning when it was cooler the car ran great, but later on when temperatures increased it ran terrible. I figured it was a vacuum line that shrunk with lower temps and expanded with hotter temps, since all the vacuum lines are rubber.

[GPhilly]

Originally Posted by brandonblt2

Yup those are the port injectors. With such little mileage on your car injectors should be fine. I had 180k on mine before I changed both port and direct injectors. Same goes for your MAF sensor and Fuel pump. Those components should be fine. You don't touch the fuel pump when installing the kit but you do relocate the MAF Senor. You can clean your MAF Sensor with MAF cleaner if you think it's dirty it's a cheap and easy fix.

I would check for vacuum leaks. Go around to each line and re tighten them and worm clamp them if they already aren't. I had the same symptoms. Where during the morning when it was cooler the car ran great, but later on when temperatures increased it ran terrible. I figured it was a vacuum line that shrunk with lower temps and expanded with hotter temps, since all the vacuum lines are rubber.

I actually cleaned my MAF sensor recently! Seemed to not make a difference though.

I'll check for vacuum leaks, but how do find the problem? Will one of the lines look visibly different when hot or will I feel air coming out somewhere? I swapped to worm clamps during the install as well as I saw it recommended here on the forums. Also why would I get a Lean code with an air leak and not a Rich code? It doesn't make sense to me that idling triggers this.

It is comforting to hear that someone else has experienced this and I'm not the first one.

[brandonblt2]

Originally Posted by GPhilly

I actually cleaned my MAF sensor recently! Seemed to not make a difference though.

I'll check for vacuum leaks, but how do find the problem? Will one of the lines look visibly different when hot or will I feel air coming out somewhere? I swapped to worm clamps during the install as well as I saw it recommended here on the forums. Also why would I get a Lean code with an air leak and not a Rich code? It doesn't make sense to me that idling triggers this.

It is comforting to hear that someone else has experienced this and I'm not the first one.

You can have a local shop use a smoke machine to blow smoke through the intake. If you have any leaks you'll see smoke leak out.



Oh missed were you said you were getting lean codes I was getting rich codes and port injectors and direct injectors not activating. If you're getting lean codes try port injector cleaners and make sure port injectors are sited correctly. You shouldn't need to replace the fuel pump but depending on how dirty your gasoline is that you use the the pump filter could be clogged. You can pull the fuel pump and clean the filter which is relatively simple do.

[B T]

Does your ecutek show correct fuel rail pressure?

[GPhilly]

Originally Posted by B T

Does your ecutek show correct fuel rail pressure?

I am able to get live readings from Ecutek app, but no graphs. What should the fuel rail pressure be?

Also I have been tracking long term and short term fuel trims. My long term trims are in the negatives up to about -15 and my short term bounces anywhere from +15 to -15. I read that this is normal as long as the long term stays negative.

[Hikari1]

Posted this in the tuning subforum, but reposting it here. Anybody know the part number of the edelbrock supplied MAP sensor? From looking at the logs with my very limited knowledge, it seems the MAP sensor is fluctuating wildly compared to previous...

Originally Posted by Hikari1

Hey everyone, hoping I can get some help here.

Been running an Edelbrock supercharger for about 2 years, regular oil changes, build list here:
Edelbrock S/C
Updated Bypass Valve
Tomei Header & Overpipe
HKS dual res Front Pipe
Full Blown Motorsports Oil Cooler
Tuned by Delicious
OEM fuel pump and injectors
OEM spark plugs and coil packs
85,000km

Car handled the track day fine, except for when the belt slipped and sheared off a rib. Swapped to a spare and drove 30min to cottage fine. 2 days later went to drive home and about 15min into the drive I noticed RPMs drop while cruising at about 80km/h in 5th gear. I could hear the belt chirp everytime the AC compressor kick on so I assumed the belt was stretched as it was an old I kept as spare. Seemed to run fine after turning off the AC for the remaining hour home.

Swapped to a brand new belt, car drove fine for about 30min to a meet, when trying to leave the meet the car would start up but then stall when going to idle. I thought it might be out of gas as it was very low and I planned to get more next to the meet before I left. I filled it with 20 litres and it still had an issue stalling at idle on startup. I was able to get it to idle by applying throttle at startup for a couple seconds and it would idle fine after that. Drove it home and AFRs seemed to be okay, thought it was the fuel being low.

Couple days later I drove 30min, car seemed completely fine on highway and city streets, when suddenly, going 60kmh the car started surging wildly, RPMs bouncing up and down and AFRs all over the place. I put the clutch in and the engine stalled immediately. When trying to restart it kept stalling on idle. I managed to get it to keep running by giving gas, it chugged a bit at low speed at first but after a minute it drove 5min to my dad’s place fine.

I've been trying to diagnose the problem but I'm at a loss. The car on cold start will start up although will be running rich, about 12.5-13... I let it idle for about 20min to warm up and was still showing the same on the wideband. I slowly brought the revs up to see if there was any change and the wideband spiked to 17.5 and higher so I let it come back to idle and it remained running lean. Every attempt at starting the car following it being warm resulted in the engine stalling on startup, even when attempting to add throttle.

I can hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the car on, fuel pressures look fine as well. I replaced the PCV valve as there was a slight leak on it, no change. I've swapped with a spare MAF and the issue is still the same. I checked the bypass valve on the Edelbrock, it doesn't stick at all, holds vacuum, and holds pressure. I pulled the passenger spark plugs as they were original with 85,000km on them, 20,000km of that with boost and 5 track days. The tips were very white so I'm replacing with new ones regardless.

I did some data logging for Bill @ Delicious of its behaviour, but I’m at a lost for what it could be at this point.

Logs are at this link if you want to look:
Log 1
Log 2
Log 3

[B T]

Originally Posted by GPhilly

I am able to get live readings from Ecutek app, but no graphs. What should the fuel rail pressure be?

Also I have been tracking long term and short term fuel trims. My long term trims are in the negatives up to about -15 and my short term bounces anywhere from +15 to -15. I read that this is normal as long as the long term stays negative.

Should be around 60 psi on the low pressure fuel rail. I'm fairly certain that ltft shouldn't be sitting at -15. I usually stay within 4% ltft and can swing between -10 and +10 on stft. Have you cleaned the MAF? MAP connections good? Are you running nay catch cans?

[Hikari1]

After swapping plugs, I decided to check the actual MAP sensor which was dirty. Cleaned it and the car seems to be fine again.

[Swolzee]

The car is finally off the jack stands after a year of collecting dust and a few weeks of installing parts.
My initial impressions of the kit is how smooth everything runs. With the most obvious being the introduction of FI, and it being an off-the-shelf Edelbrock carb tune. Other than the occasional hiccup and hesitation when running in third or fourth gear at about 4K rpm and easing onto throttle. The car runs like it's stock with just more HP. Which brings me to my second surprise that the carb tune is way stronger than I anticipated. I thought it would be pretty lame duck being what it is but that's really not the case. I'm also running 18x9.5 on 265s front and 18x11 285s rear, I'm sure someone with less rotating mass it would feel even livelier.

That said I can't wait to get a proper tune and that extra bit I need when crawling out of an up hill corner.

[Colin86]

PSA: The upgraded edelbrock bypass is relatively straight forward to install WITHOUT removing the supercharger if you remove the AC compressor. Remove the AC compressor, throttle body, engine side of the edelbrock air box, and vacuum lines into the snout of the supercharger and you have plenty of access.

After removing the above I laid a large sheet down between the engine and the bottom of the supercharger so if I dropped any bolts/nuts from the bypass/bracket they didn't fall into the abyss of the engine. I'd consider this approach significantly easier than removing the supercharger, your mileage may vary.