HELP Worst Mistake Ever - Recall Warranty Work/TOB Replaced at the same time.

[Opie]

Sounds like you need to nut & bolt* everything either may have touched.

*nut & bolt = put a torque wrench on every bolt they would've removed and make sure it is tightened to the proper torque. The noise does't sound like anything internal (engine or transmission) sounds like something is loose. I'd be suspicious since the dealer already had to bend a mount for another noise.

The pics of the TOB all look fine

[Boricua]

Originally Posted by Opie

Sounds like you need to nut & bolt* everything either may have touched.

*nut & bolt = put a torque wrench on every bolt they would've removed and make sure it is tightened to the proper torque. The noise does't sound like anything internal (engine or transmission) sounds like something is loose. I'd be suspicious since the dealer already had to bend a mount for another noise.

The pics of the TOB all look fine

I'm not experienced enough to deal with that level of work and though i'd like to learn I have no garage or work area and minimum tools. My next plan is get the car on a slope and safely lift the car and then go under and hear exactly where the noise is from. I'll update the thread with that video.

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[Mr.ac]

Originally Posted by radroach

I've also read that the new TOB requires a meticulous install procedure different from the old bearing. Somebody should chime in on this. Perhaps the shop wasn't aware of the new TOB's install procedure.

Lol
Same as any other TOB. Lube the shaft, slide her in, locker her place and enjoy the ride.
Old man @humfrs knows.

FYI new TOB has better grease, better seals, and better balls-bearings. I think... don't quote me that.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Mr.ac

Lol
Same as any other TOB. Lube the shaft, slide her in, locker her place and enjoy the ride.
Old man @humfrs knows.

FYI new TOB has better grease, better seals, and better balls-bearings. I think... don't quote me that.

Oh ya, jest run the car up on blocks, clean the mud dobbers nest off the air cleaner, dig a trench under the car so as you can get to the transmission, open up the drivetrain, slip off what's left of the old TOB, clean up the shaft, grease the shaft with axle grease, slip on the NEW TOB.

ALWAYS BE SURE TO ORIENT THE NEW TOB SO AS THE WHITE DOT IS ON THE TOP

NOTE: Iffen the clutch disk is worn down into the brass rivets, go to the junk yard and get a better one.

Put it all back together.

[Boricua]

Finally got under the car while it was parked at a slope and took these videos while the car was being pushed moderately. The noise was even louder when pressure was placed on the wheel and pushed on as opposed to the frame. Seems like a bad suspension component. I stood over the engine and the noise seems to be from over the struts as opposed to the transmission but damn its hard to tell. I cant even jack the front to get a better listen because if I raise it even little the noise goes away (the slope has to be pretty steep to get it to make noise). Not sure if this helps add insight but I wanted to update everyone. Next step is to install new coils and replace the transmission fluid. I need coils anyways. While im installing im going to inspect the LCA's and also redo this noise test this time with the wheel off. Thanks for everyones help. https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5eed8633..._233927378.mp4https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5eed864d..._234137799.mp4

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[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Boricua

Finally got under the car while it was parked at a slope and took these videos while the car was being pushed moderately. The noise was even louder when pressure was placed on the wheel and pushed on as opposed to the frame. Seems like a bad suspension component. I stood over the engine and the noise seems to be from over the struts as opposed to the transmission but damn its hard to tell. I cant even jack the front to get a better listen because if I raise it even little the noise goes away (the slope has to be pretty steep to get it to make noise). Not sure if this helps add insight but I wanted to update everyone. Next step is to install new coils and replace the transmission fluid. I need coils anyways. While im installing im going to inspect the LCA's and also redo this noise test this time with the wheel off. Thanks for everyones help. https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5eed8633..._233927378.mp4https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5eed864d..._234137799.mp4

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Was the engine running while that video was taken?

[Boricua]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Was the engine running while that video was taken?

No it was off.

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[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Boricua

No it was off.

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Now, THAT is one weird sound for a car to make without the engine running.

Back in the day, I would have mixed up a mixture of 30w oil and kerosene (50/50 ratio) in a squirt can, have a buddy make the car squeak, crawl under the car and squirt away in the direction of the squeak.

Today, I would do the same thing with a large spray can, with a flexible spout, of silicone and go squeak hunting.

[Opie]

Something, attached to the part being pushed on, is not tightened properly. Check the metal under engine tray, if not that, start checking suspension, front subframe and supports.

[Boricua]

PROBLEM SOLVED

Quick Explanation - Time and bumpy roads solved the problem. Rarely hear the noise.

Full details:

So often I see a problem posted with no resolution or update on what happened so I wanted to write what is likely the final update.

Upgrading to Coilovers did nothing but time did. The original noise (Sounded like Lifters hitting for those who didn't hear the original audio) stayed for 6+ long months. THEN one day on my way to the farm I hit a few massive potholes going slow, 5mph or less, and it started getting better. It would act up only after 20mins of driving. Then 30mins. Then an hour. After a year of rattling and those country roads it stopped making the noise. If its hot, I'm facing downward, and I hit the brakes maybe it will make the lifter noise but in flat Florida those moments are few and far between and will hopefully be gone in another year. I think many of you were spot on. It was a clearance/alignment/torque issue. Not inside the transmission although that's what the dealer and the transmission shop said.

It's my theory that the reason it was not rattling when the engine was cold was because metal shrinks when cooled and expands when heated. This slight expansion after warming up was causing the rattling of the misaligned/torqued parts. After a year of rattling, driving on those bumpy country roads, Florida summer heat, and 50 degree winter the rubbing parts finally settled in and created their space. To this day the car still drives with no issues or check engine light.

Hopefully someone somewhere learned something from this. Apart from the 2 bad TOB's this car has been so reliable. Thank God the car made it through this nightmare and thanks for everyone's help.