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Old 12-30-2017, 02:16 PM   #37983
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Well fuck me gently with a chainsaw. I now have a gigantic exhaust leak.

And of course, it didn't happen until I passed my parents place while I was on the way to the cottage.
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Old 12-30-2017, 02:25 PM   #37984
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Well fuck me gently with a chainsaw. I now have a gigantic exhaust leak.

And of course, it didn't happen until I passed my parents place while I was on the way to the cottage.
shit
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Old 12-30-2017, 03:56 PM   #37985
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Old 12-30-2017, 04:09 PM   #37986
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Quote:
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Well fuck me gently with a chainsaw. I now have a gigantic exhaust leak.

And of course, it didn't happen until I passed my parents place while I was on the way to the cottage.
Maybe it costs extra for the subie dealer to tighten down the O2 sensor you had replaced for cheap ......

OR

Maybe you have replaced the muffler so many times, that the flange bolts just wore out ......





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Old 12-30-2017, 08:23 PM   #37987
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Maybe you have replaced the muffler so many times, that the flange bolts just wore out ......
I've bought so many flange nuts and bolts from Subaru the last four years that it has became the default question whenever I walk towards the dealer parts counter; "Back for more bolts?"
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Old 12-30-2017, 09:33 PM   #37988
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I've bought so many flange nuts and bolts from Subaru the last four years that it has became the default question whenever I walk towards the dealer parts counter; "Back for more bolts?"
I thought i was the only one but my case is on wheel studs
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Old 12-30-2017, 10:59 PM   #37989
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@krayzie

@Teseo

Rule #1 - don't work on your car after 6 beers

Rule #2 - squirt nuts with kerosene or coal oil before you start

Rule #3 - to take off most nuts, turn them counterclockwise (lefty is losy)

Rule #4 - you DO NOT need a 1.5" air impact wrench for most nuts

Rule #5 - if you "work out" or don't have a calibrated wrist .... use a torque wrench

OR

Do it the humfrz way ...... take your machine up to your local auto shop for the work, that way if Bubba twists off the nut/bolt ...... he has to fix it.

See ...... pretty simple ......


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Old 12-30-2017, 11:05 PM   #37990
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My Review Of the JDM Underbody Panel Kit sold by FT86SF

Ups:
Fits perfectly.
MUCH quieter ride. Surprisingly effective.
5 MPH gain in top speed. (not really)
Downs:
Shipped with standard 8 mm hex nuts when factory uses locking flange nuts. I added my own washers and tightened gently over plastic parts using blue loctite.

Needs 3 mm-tall spacers or new screws with taller shoulders for the six forward-most shoulder screws. Fully tightening the originals over a double layer of fiber board will destroy the boards. I also finger-tightened these after applying blue loctite.
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Old 12-30-2017, 11:14 PM   #37991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humfrz View Post
@krayzie

@Teseo

Rule #1 - don't work on your car after 6 beers

Rule #2 - squirt nuts with kerosene or coal oil before you start

Rule #3 - to take off most nuts, turn them counterclockwise (lefty is losy)

Rule #4 - you DO NOT need a 1.5" air impact wrench for most nuts

Rule #5 - if you "work out" or don't have a calibrated wrist .... use a torque wrench

OR

Do it the humfrz way ...... take your machine up to your local auto shop for the work, that way if Bubba twists off the nut/bolt ...... he has to fix it.

See ...... pretty simple ......


humfrz
#2 is also a very effective treatment for crabs.
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Old 12-30-2017, 11:23 PM   #37992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultramaroon View Post
Ups:
Fits perfectly.
MUCH quieter ride. Surprisingly effective.
5 MPH gain in top speed. (not really)
Downs:
Shipped with standard 8 mm hex nuts when factory uses locking flange nuts. I added my own washers and tightened gently over plastic parts using blue loctite.

Needs 3 mm-tall spacers or new screws with taller shoulders for the six forward-most shoulder screws. Fully tightening the originals over a double layer of fiber board will destroy the boards. I also finger-tightened these after applying blue loctite.
Questions:

Did you put your car on a lift to attach the parts?

How long does it take?

I would be interested in the quieter part.


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Old 12-30-2017, 11:27 PM   #37993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tcoat View Post
#2 is also a very effective treatment for crabs.
Back in the old army, we used 10% DDT dust ....... we burnt the other stuff in our multi-fuel vehicles.




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Old 12-30-2017, 11:30 PM   #37994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humfrz View Post
Questions:

Did you put your car on a lift to attach the parts?

How long does it take?

I would be interested in the quieter part.
Rhino ramps up front and jack stands in back.

I could do it again in under an hour taking my time with a coffee break.
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Old 12-30-2017, 11:56 PM   #37995
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Rhino ramps up front and jack stands in back.

I could do it again in under an hour taking my time with a coffee break.
So, Bubba, using a lift, should be able to do it within an hour ......

Oh, wait, I just read an internet instruction piece about attaching the panels .... I'm ah feared Bubba isn't the man for the job...... too many small delicate pieces.

So, that leaves me and you Ultramaroon ...... I'll supply the panels, furnish the garage, ramps and jack stands and I'll make the coffee ........since you have the experience, I'll allow you to attach the panels ...... oh, yes, I'll slide tools to you as needed .........




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Old 12-31-2017, 12:00 AM   #37996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultramaroon View Post
Ups:
Fits perfectly.
MUCH quieter ride. Surprisingly effective.
5 MPH gain in top speed. (not really)
Downs:
Shipped with standard 8 mm hex nuts when factory uses locking flange nuts. I added my own washers and tightened gently over plastic parts using blue loctite.

Needs 3 mm-tall spacers or new screws with taller shoulders for the six forward-most shoulder screws. Fully tightening the originals over a double layer of fiber board will destroy the boards. I also finger-tightened these after applying blue loctite.
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