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Old 04-06-2020, 10:22 AM   #3851
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K-member often also bends if the arm bends... Though not always.

so is the k member the things shaped like < that attach to the subframe?
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Old 04-06-2020, 11:10 PM   #3852
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Originally Posted by Breadman View Post
so is the k member the things shaped like < that attach to the subframe?
Well, it's the thing that looks like >-< that also holds the engine up and the inboard suspension arm mounts to it... It sorta looks like a 'K' once off the car.
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Old 04-07-2020, 07:57 AM   #3853
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Well, it's the thing that looks like >-< that also holds the engine up and the inboard suspension arm mounts to it... It sorta looks like a 'K' once off the car.

so the whole subframe. if i bent that its staying bent :\
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Old 04-08-2020, 11:57 AM   #3854
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You can center the subframe, they're almost never "right" from the factory. That is pretty low camber though.
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Old 06-16-2020, 09:28 PM   #3855
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Hey everybody! I'm in my third season of autocross and had been considering traveling to Bristol or Peru, but I've instead decided to use that money to finish prepping the car for STX. I was never much into cars before some coworkers introduced me to autocross, so apologies if I'm ignorant of some things. My current mod list is below, but I have a few questions on some other things.



1) Headers. UEL vs EL. The setup thread seems to have a pretty good split. I've been leaning UEL (either JDL or Tomei), but I also hear good things about the JDL 4-2-1. What opinions/advice can you all give me on this?


1a) When I purchase the headers, I'm planning on doing the work myself with a couple of friends. Will I be able to drive the car to the tuner's shop, or will it go into limp mode to the point that I'll need to tow it?


1b) Overpipe. I have an issue in my current setup where under torque, the overpipe drops enough to rub against one of the collars for the sway bar. I've adjusted it a few times and even added a couple of washers to the subframe to try and get more separation. I think, but am not certain, that this is the OEM overpipe. Will I be able to possibly adjust this while installing the header to help with clearance, or should I look at getting a new overpipe too?


2) Tuning. Is it worth it to buy an EcuTek and have a local tuner do the tune with a dyno, or will an OFT basic tune be sufficient? I also daily the car currently, so would I want to look into a piggyback tune so I could run better efficiency day-to-day?


3) Wheels. I purchased Enkei RPF1 17x9 last year, but it seems I bought the wrong offset. With the 45 offset, and no spacers, I've rubbed through the inside of my fender liner a bit. Would it be better to sell the 45 offset wheels and buy 35s, or would just using 10mm spacers up front be perfectly fine?



2015 Subaru BRZ Series.Blue
Suspension: Tein Flex Z
Sway Bars: Whiteline 19mm (Front), OEM (Rear)
Intake: Injen Tuned (https://injen.com/i-30498160-injen-s...d-sp1230p.html)
Exhaust: Perrin Catback (https://www.perrin.com/shop/exhaust/...atback-exhaust)
Wheels: Enkei RPF1 17x9 45mm
Tires: Bridgestone RE-71R 245x40x17


Fluids:
Oil: Mobil1 0W20 Synthetic
Trans: Redline MT-90 (GL-4)
Diff: Redline 75W90



Other than headers and a tune, I'm planning on getting camber-adjustable rear control arms as well. I know the Teins aren't the best, but they were on the car when I bought it, so I'm rolling with it. I might replace them down the road once everything else is in place. What other advice or suggestions do you have to help me finish prepping the car?



Thanks!
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Old 06-17-2020, 07:57 AM   #3856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnorJ View Post
Hey everybody! I'm in my third season of autocross and had been considering traveling to Bristol or Peru, but I've instead decided to use that money to finish prepping the car for STX. I was never much into cars before some coworkers introduced me to autocross, so apologies if I'm ignorant of some things. My current mod list is below, but I have a few questions on some other things.



1) Headers. UEL vs EL. The setup thread seems to have a pretty good split. I've been leaning UEL (either JDL or Tomei), but I also hear good things about the JDL 4-2-1. What opinions/advice can you all give me on this?

If you want to same some money Tomei is a good choice. However JDL 4-2-1 makes more power mid-range and at the upper end of the spectrum on these cars (I've had both headers and could tell a difference). However Tomei makes great power as well so really just depends on how much money you want to spend

1a) When I purchase the headers, I'm planning on doing the work myself with a couple of friends. Will I be able to drive the car to the tuner's shop, or will it go into limp mode to the point that I'll need to tow it?

You'll maybe throw a CEL and that's it. No biggie,you'll be fine

1b) Overpipe. I have an issue in my current setup where under torque, the overpipe drops enough to rub against one of the collars for the sway bar. I've adjusted it a few times and even added a couple of washers to the subframe to try and get more separation. I think, but am not certain, that this is the OEM overpipe. Will I be able to possibly adjust this while installing the header to help with clearance, or should I look at getting a new overpipe too?

OE OP is seriously restrictive, replace it.

2) Tuning. Is it worth it to buy an EcuTek and have a local tuner do the tune with a dyno, or will an OFT basic tune be sufficient? I also daily the car currently, so would I want to look into a piggyback tune so I could run better efficiency day-to-day?

I personally prefer ECUtek. I think the tuners on that platform are a bit more well known and have track record to prove it. Just IMO. The remote tunes are supposedly good, I got mine done on a Dyno. To each their own


3) Wheels. I purchased Enkei RPF1 17x9 last year, but it seems I bought the wrong offset. With the 45 offset, and no spacers, I've rubbed through the inside of my fender liner a bit. Would it be better to sell the 45 offset wheels and buy 35s, or would just using 10mm spacers up front be perfectly fine?

You can run a spacer no issues, just make sure you run proper studs.

2015 Subaru BRZ Series.Blue
Suspension: Tein Flex Z
Sway Bars: Whiteline 19mm (Front), OEM (Rear)
Intake: Injen Tuned (https://injen.com/i-30498160-injen-s...d-sp1230p.html)
Exhaust: Perrin Catback (https://www.perrin.com/shop/exhaust/...atback-exhaust)
Wheels: Enkei RPF1 17x9 45mm
Tires: Bridgestone RE-71R 245x40x17


Fluids:
Oil: Mobil1 0W20 Synthetic Get id of 0W-20 and go 5W-30 (And not Mobil one either)
Trans: Redline MT-90 (GL-4)
Diff: Redline 75W90



Other than headers and a tune, I'm planning on getting camber-adjustable rear control arms as well. I know the Teins aren't the best, but they were on the car when I bought it, so I'm rolling with it. I might replace them down the road once everything else is in place. What other advice or suggestions do you have to help me finish prepping the car?

Run the car as is, identify problem areas with the car how you see fit on how it performs on course. No reason for us to tell you to spend money on this or that if you don't know what you're doing and how it is impacting your car. My $0.02

Thanks!
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Old 06-17-2020, 11:58 AM   #3857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnorJ View Post
I was never much into cars before some coworkers introduced me to autocross.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnorJ View Post
Headers. UEL vs EL.
UEL if you want that distinct Subaru sound.
I would think EL would be better performance wise.
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Old 06-17-2020, 02:15 PM   #3858
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UEL if you want that distinct Subaru sound.
I would think EL would be better performance wise.
General consensus;

long tube EL > UEL > short tube EL
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Old 06-17-2020, 02:15 PM   #3859
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Originally Posted by M0nk3y View Post
Comments in red

ive been running amazon full synth 5w30 and and it has all the certifications needed. 20$ for 5L and my oil results have come back every time saying i could run it way more than 6k even with ethanol. my filters are subaru black
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Old 06-22-2020, 07:50 AM   #3860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnorJ View Post
Hey everybody! I'm in my third season of autocross and had been considering traveling to Bristol or Peru, but I've instead decided to use that money to finish prepping the car for STX. I was never much into cars before some coworkers introduced me to autocross, so apologies if I'm ignorant of some things. My current mod list is below, but I have a few questions on some other things.



1) Headers. UEL vs EL. The setup thread seems to have a pretty good split. I've been leaning UEL (either JDL or Tomei), but I also hear good things about the JDL 4-2-1. What opinions/advice can you all give me on this?


1a) When I purchase the headers, I'm planning on doing the work myself with a couple of friends. Will I be able to drive the car to the tuner's shop, or will it go into limp mode to the point that I'll need to tow it?


1b) Overpipe. I have an issue in my current setup where under torque, the overpipe drops enough to rub against one of the collars for the sway bar. I've adjusted it a few times and even added a couple of washers to the subframe to try and get more separation. I think, but am not certain, that this is the OEM overpipe. Will I be able to possibly adjust this while installing the header to help with clearance, or should I look at getting a new overpipe too?


2) Tuning. Is it worth it to buy an EcuTek and have a local tuner do the tune with a dyno, or will an OFT basic tune be sufficient? I also daily the car currently, so would I want to look into a piggyback tune so I could run better efficiency day-to-day?


3) Wheels. I purchased Enkei RPF1 17x9 last year, but it seems I bought the wrong offset. With the 45 offset, and no spacers, I've rubbed through the inside of my fender liner a bit. Would it be better to sell the 45 offset wheels and buy 35s, or would just using 10mm spacers up front be perfectly fine?



2015 Subaru BRZ Series.Blue
Suspension: Tein Flex Z
Sway Bars: Whiteline 19mm (Front), OEM (Rear)
Intake: Injen Tuned (https://injen.com/i-30498160-injen-s...d-sp1230p.html)
Exhaust: Perrin Catback (https://www.perrin.com/shop/exhaust/...atback-exhaust)
Wheels: Enkei RPF1 17x9 45mm
Tires: Bridgestone RE-71R 245x40x17


Fluids:
Oil: Mobil1 0W20 Synthetic
Trans: Redline MT-90 (GL-4)
Diff: Redline 75W90



Other than headers and a tune, I'm planning on getting camber-adjustable rear control arms as well. I know the Teins aren't the best, but they were on the car when I bought it, so I'm rolling with it. I might replace them down the road once everything else is in place. What other advice or suggestions do you have to help me finish prepping the car?



Thanks!
Connor, I think you are the one that rode with me last year at Milton Frank. I've got the dark gray car, it was SSC, but moved to STX for this year.

1) I have the JDL 4-2-1. I wanted and initially ordered the ACE, but lead time was shorter with the JDL and I wanted the car together for Dixie (which I bailed on due to COVID). One thing to note with the latest iteration of the JDL is that it is SUPER close to the radiator mount and plastic fan. I wouldn't be surprised if I start to melt my fan at some point.

If I didn't hate money, I would have gone Tomei UEL.

1a) I drove mine a few times between header and tune and no CEL. I didn't lean on it, but the car actually felt really good.

2) I went ECUtek, remote tune with XERO Limit. It seemed like the easy button and it has been. OFT is fine, too. And cheaper. Kyle was the only car in the top 3 at nats with ECUtek.

3) I went et35, but that was a time thing as I scrambled to do my build in a week's time. I think 45's and spacers up front is the optimal setup.

Definitely go 5w30 oil. I was running the Toyota 0w20 stuff (for documentation purposes) and was going into limp mode with a slow cam response CEL at pros and other hot weather fast paced autocrosses. Going to a 5w30 seemed to clear that up.
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Old 06-22-2020, 07:55 AM   #3861
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Also, it would be super great to have you at the Bristol Pro. STX needs another entry to not get bumped into an indexed class.
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Old 06-22-2020, 09:05 AM   #3862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steverife View Post
Connor, I think you are the one that rode with me last year at Milton Frank. I've got the dark gray car, it was SSC, but moved to STX for this year.

1) I have the JDL 4-2-1. I wanted and initially ordered the ACE, but lead time was shorter with the JDL and I wanted the car together for Dixie (which I bailed on due to COVID). One thing to note with the latest iteration of the JDL is that it is SUPER close to the radiator mount and plastic fan. I wouldn't be surprised if I start to melt my fan at some point.

If I didn't hate money, I would have gone Tomei UEL.

1a) I drove mine a few times between header and tune and no CEL. I didn't lean on it, but the car actually felt really good.

2) I went ECUtek, remote tune with XERO Limit. It seemed like the easy button and it has been. OFT is fine, too. And cheaper. Kyle was the only car in the top 3 at nats with ECUtek.

3) I went et35, but that was a time thing as I scrambled to do my build in a week's time. I think 45's and spacers up front is the optimal setup.

Definitely go 5w30 oil. I was running the Toyota 0w20 stuff (for documentation purposes) and was going into limp mode with a slow cam response CEL at pros and other hot weather fast paced autocrosses. Going to a 5w30 seemed to clear that up.
I thought Ray revised his tune for 2019 and went from OFT to EcuTek when he got his new header?
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Old 06-22-2020, 09:30 AM   #3863
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I thought Ray revised his tune for 2019 and went from OFT to EcuTek when he got his new header?
I've never specifically asked him, but based off some of the things he's said in a group text, that would make sense.

...and that does bring up a good point for Connor, the people that spend for an EL like the JDL do tend to go ECUtek, so that is something to consider if you want more support in optimizing your setup.
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Old 06-23-2020, 09:22 AM   #3864
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Ray did switch to Ecutek before Nats. I chatted with him about it last year.

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