04-06-2020, 10:22 AM | #3851 |
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04-06-2020, 11:10 PM | #3852 |
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Well, it's the thing that looks like >-< that also holds the engine up and the inboard suspension arm mounts to it... It sorta looks like a 'K' once off the car.
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Second chance build... or whatever it is.
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04-07-2020, 07:57 AM | #3853 |
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04-08-2020, 11:57 AM | #3854 |
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You can center the subframe, they're almost never "right" from the factory. That is pretty low camber though.
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06-16-2020, 09:28 PM | #3855 |
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Hey everybody! I'm in my third season of autocross and had been considering traveling to Bristol or Peru, but I've instead decided to use that money to finish prepping the car for STX. I was never much into cars before some coworkers introduced me to autocross, so apologies if I'm ignorant of some things. My current mod list is below, but I have a few questions on some other things.
1) Headers. UEL vs EL. The setup thread seems to have a pretty good split. I've been leaning UEL (either JDL or Tomei), but I also hear good things about the JDL 4-2-1. What opinions/advice can you all give me on this? 1a) When I purchase the headers, I'm planning on doing the work myself with a couple of friends. Will I be able to drive the car to the tuner's shop, or will it go into limp mode to the point that I'll need to tow it? 1b) Overpipe. I have an issue in my current setup where under torque, the overpipe drops enough to rub against one of the collars for the sway bar. I've adjusted it a few times and even added a couple of washers to the subframe to try and get more separation. I think, but am not certain, that this is the OEM overpipe. Will I be able to possibly adjust this while installing the header to help with clearance, or should I look at getting a new overpipe too? 2) Tuning. Is it worth it to buy an EcuTek and have a local tuner do the tune with a dyno, or will an OFT basic tune be sufficient? I also daily the car currently, so would I want to look into a piggyback tune so I could run better efficiency day-to-day? 3) Wheels. I purchased Enkei RPF1 17x9 last year, but it seems I bought the wrong offset. With the 45 offset, and no spacers, I've rubbed through the inside of my fender liner a bit. Would it be better to sell the 45 offset wheels and buy 35s, or would just using 10mm spacers up front be perfectly fine? 2015 Subaru BRZ Series.Blue Suspension: Tein Flex Z Sway Bars: Whiteline 19mm (Front), OEM (Rear) Intake: Injen Tuned (https://injen.com/i-30498160-injen-s...d-sp1230p.html) Exhaust: Perrin Catback (https://www.perrin.com/shop/exhaust/...atback-exhaust) Wheels: Enkei RPF1 17x9 45mm Tires: Bridgestone RE-71R 245x40x17 Fluids: Oil: Mobil1 0W20 Synthetic Trans: Redline MT-90 (GL-4) Diff: Redline 75W90 Other than headers and a tune, I'm planning on getting camber-adjustable rear control arms as well. I know the Teins aren't the best, but they were on the car when I bought it, so I'm rolling with it. I might replace them down the road once everything else is in place. What other advice or suggestions do you have to help me finish prepping the car? Thanks!
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Connor Johnson
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06-17-2020, 07:57 AM | #3856 | |
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Quote:
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Kyle H. - #89 STX
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The Following User Says Thank You to M0nk3y For This Useful Post: | strat61caster (06-17-2020) |
06-17-2020, 11:58 AM | #3857 |
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06-17-2020, 02:15 PM | #3858 | |
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Quote:
long tube EL > UEL > short tube EL |
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06-17-2020, 02:15 PM | #3859 |
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06-22-2020, 07:50 AM | #3860 | |
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Quote:
1) I have the JDL 4-2-1. I wanted and initially ordered the ACE, but lead time was shorter with the JDL and I wanted the car together for Dixie (which I bailed on due to COVID). One thing to note with the latest iteration of the JDL is that it is SUPER close to the radiator mount and plastic fan. I wouldn't be surprised if I start to melt my fan at some point. If I didn't hate money, I would have gone Tomei UEL. 1a) I drove mine a few times between header and tune and no CEL. I didn't lean on it, but the car actually felt really good. 2) I went ECUtek, remote tune with XERO Limit. It seemed like the easy button and it has been. OFT is fine, too. And cheaper. Kyle was the only car in the top 3 at nats with ECUtek. 3) I went et35, but that was a time thing as I scrambled to do my build in a week's time. I think 45's and spacers up front is the optimal setup. Definitely go 5w30 oil. I was running the Toyota 0w20 stuff (for documentation purposes) and was going into limp mode with a slow cam response CEL at pros and other hot weather fast paced autocrosses. Going to a 5w30 seemed to clear that up. |
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06-22-2020, 07:55 AM | #3861 |
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Also, it would be super great to have you at the Bristol Pro. STX needs another entry to not get bumped into an indexed class.
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06-22-2020, 09:05 AM | #3862 | |
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Quote:
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Kyle H. - #89 STX
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06-22-2020, 09:30 AM | #3863 | |
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Quote:
...and that does bring up a good point for Connor, the people that spend for an EL like the JDL do tend to go ECUtek, so that is something to consider if you want more support in optimizing your setup. |
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06-23-2020, 09:22 AM | #3864 |
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Ray did switch to Ecutek before Nats. I chatted with him about it last year.
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