Set up for great all-arounder/jack-of-all-trades

[mla163]

Jack of all trades, master of none

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Teseo

All around to me means you can do it but not perfect. Its like comparing a woman doing striptease and the other an ordinary mom

It's not a hypothetical, I've experienced it, the brake pad thread is 9 pages long, it's noted in professional reviews for crying out loud. All-around implies it can complete the basics of what's being evaluated, and stock, this car can't. When the ordinary mom gives up before she gets her panties off and goes to bed after 5 minutes when you made time for 30 it's time for a divorce, luckily it's a fixable problem, but only if you're willing to fix it.

[Teseo]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

It's not a hypothetical, I've experienced it, the brake pad thread is 9 pages long, it's noted in professional reviews for crying out loud. All-around implies it can complete the basics of what's being evaluated, and stock, this car can't. When the ordinary mom gives up before she gets her panties off and goes to bed after 5 minutes when you made time for 30 it's time for a divorce, luckily it's a fixable problem, but only if you're willing to fix it.

I agreed , im not saying the car is perfect "all around" . For me toyobaru give the owner to improve the car at your taste.they give you a chicken, you can do it fried, oven/baked, etc.
Im amuse how this car become a track menace with the rights tun, and perfect donor for an engine transplant. This is good entry car period no matter what path go.

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

OEM Brakes are not up to the task of tracking at 10/10th's for more than a few laps in the hands of a capable driver on stock rubber.

What person that has any kind of track experience would think the OEM brakes, and by that I'm assuming you mean stock fluid/pads, would hold up to any kind of serious track work? These aren't Carbon ceramic brakes.


However, I suspect for the vast majority of people good pads/fluids will be fine.


Granted I haven't been able to track this car yet, all my experience is from Miata's and sport bikes.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by c4lvinnn

That's pretty much what I'm doing is trying to get the most out of my 95% and "dealing" with it the 5% of the time.

I may not be at the limit on the roads, but it sure feels pretty neutral with a hint of understeer. I mean I did say if I needed the rears to come out more (not necessarily for drifting, but in general), I can throttle it out, wouldn't that be the same as what you said as "rotation is driver induced?"

Also, obviously the spring rates being 8/8 naturally would give the car more understeer at the limit, but couldn't I offset by a stiffer and larger rear bar? Or even an 8/10k setup? That's what I was getting at with the hotchkis sways part.

I'm gonna say try your camber numbers, and keep the toe 0 for the front and rear. You can try a hair of toe-out in the rear for more rotation, but it will severely destabilize the car for your 95%.

Get the rear sway only, and adjust to taste.


*However*, if you're aligning it to the 95%, then you want to be at around -.75 front camber and about -1.25 rear camber, with 1/16" toe-in front and rear.

[c4lvinnn]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I'm gonna say try your camber numbers, and keep the toe 0 for the front and rear. You can try a hair of toe-out in the rear for more rotation, but it will severely destabilize the car for your 95%.

Get the rear sway only, and adjust to taste.


*However*, if you're aligning it to the 95%, then you want to be at around -.75 front camber and about -1.25 rear camber, with 1/16" toe-in front and rear.

Pretty much what I figured. Thanks!

Hopefully a rear sway even at softest settings I won't be at an oversteer bias. Guess we'll see.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

What person that has any kind of track experience would think the OEM brakes, and by that I'm assuming you mean stock fluid/pads, would hold up to any kind of serious track work? These aren't Carbon ceramic brakes.

@Teseo

Edit: My OEM brakes served me well my first ever track day, faded on my second and I replaced the pads and fluid for the third, aside from needing a bleed after the first day with new fluid they've been golden ever since.

From what I've seen, all it takes is $300-$500 in pads and fluid to track prep this car, thrash on it all day and drive it home. The other stuff I listed above just makes it easier in the long run, easy weak points to address on a budget.