SCCA Solo C Street Discussion

[Briankbot]

Originally Posted by TrqlessWonder

Max camber rear? No real such thing. It's not adjustable. You can play with the rear subframe to get it even side-to-side though

Just to clarify: do you mean there is enough play in the linkage attachment points to the rear subframe to change rear camber slightly? All of the the rear linkage attachment points are connected to the subframe, so the only adjustment that can be achieved through moving the rear sub frame in relation to the body is track. I'm curious if you have actually been able to change your rear camber by taking advantage of play in the linkage bolt holes. Please do tell if so.

Originally Posted by 7thgear

my last 3 alignments, about 8 months apart each, show a trend of the rear going considerably out of spec, while the front maintains it's spec much better.


could this be an issue with the OEM alignment bolt in the rear, or the fact our rear crossmember shifts around a lot from having soft bushings?

My first guess would be that the bushing/suspension preload method used prior to checking the alignment hasn't been consistent. The factory service manual has a very specific method for preloading prior to checking the alignment and this has to be done every time an adjustment is made. I could be wrong but I think you'll see significant changes in alignment readings if the preload procedure hasn't been followed correctly.

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by Briankbot

My first guess would be that the bushing/suspension preload method used prior to checking the alignment hasn't been consistent. The factory service manual has a very specific method for preloading prior to checking the alignment and this has to be done every time an adjustment is made. I could be wrong but I think you'll see significant changes in alignment readings if the preload procedure hasn't been followed correctly.

it is true, I have no control of their procedures, but still if they front remains consistent then there's at least that holding on it, they couldn't get the preload procedures wrong on only one end of the car? or could they..

[Locust]

Originally Posted by C4RBON

If you hear something about getting 17x7" RFs in the US, let us know. There is a BBS RF thread in the wheels forum, too.

I thought about ordering them from Nengun in Japan, but by the time you factor in shipping and the "risk" surrounding a purchase like that, I decided I can live with stock wheels or RPF1s for autocross.

So a bit of an update on my hunt for some good forged wheels for C-Street....


DSG Performance says they can get the BBS RF ones for me so looks like I'm going to go with them in 17x7.0 +48. (these: http://www.bbs-japan.co.jp/jp/products/rf.html)

[TrqlessWonder]

Originally Posted by Briankbot

Just to clarify: do you mean there is enough play in the linkage attachment points to the rear subframe to change rear camber slightly? All of the the rear linkage attachment points are connected to the subframe, so the only adjustment that can be achieved through moving the rear sub frame in relation to the body is track. I'm curious if you have actually been able to change your rear camber by taking advantage of play in the linkage bolt holes. Please do tell if so.

Not exactly. All that you can do is shift one side to the other, which I suppose is technically changing the camber, but it's not like you can choose it to be higher on both sides or lower on both sides. It's left or right only, not wider or narrower. You can really only introduce or correct the imbalance between the sides. Some cars alignments sheets I've seen posted had as much as 0.5* degree or more difference L/R in the rear. Doing this can help with that.

[NJ10]

Originally Posted by Locust

So a bit of an update on my hunt for some good forged wheels for C-Street....


DSG Performance says they can get the BBS RF ones for me so looks like I'm going to go with them in 17x7.0 +48. (these: http://www.bbs-japan.co.jp/jp/products/rf.html)

Would you mind giving us a rough number on how much it's going to cost you?

Overall, shipping and all, to get them into your hands.

[Locust]

Originally Posted by NJ10

Would you mind giving us a rough number on how much it's going to cost you?

Overall, shipping and all, to get them into your hands.

Working those details out now and then I'll give you what I can. It's going to be between $2000-$2500 though.

[86_Freak]

Originally Posted by Locust

Working those details out now and then I'll give you what I can. It's going to be between $2000-$2500 though.

Are you going to use spacers to get the offset to +42? Do you think there is a performance gain to gain another almost 0.5" in track width?

[Locust]

Originally Posted by 86_Freak

Are you going to use spacers to get the offset to +42? Do you think there is a performance gain to gain another almost 0.5" in track width?

No I won't be buying spacers. Whether there's enough of a gain or not to warrant it you'll have to ask someone else who knows the math behind it, sorry.

[vroom4]

You better really be at the pointy end to spend that on wheels

[Locust]

Originally Posted by vroom4

You better really be at the pointy end to spend that on wheels

Guess I could give you my list of reasons...

1. I often buy quality stuff even if it's expensive. #baller
2. I already have RPF1s for my Evo so I don't want another set.
3. Forged is stronger than cast.
4. Sea turtles, mate.
5. These are the lightest forged that are currently available in a C-Street size.
6. Everyone else has RPF1s or Konigs and I want to be a special butterfly.
7. Seven is a better number than 6 so I'm doing a 7th item.

[mla163]

WDCR and DC area CS drivers,

I am selling my 17x7 RPF1s. PM me for info. $660.

Pickup only.

[sludge1300]

Morning folks. Been lurking here for a year and just now finally posting. Anyway, I'm kicking off my second full season in a CS BRZ. I'm still not the fastest driver, def not the slowest though, and having tons of fun.

I just picked up a set of 215-45-17 RE71R's. Private seller and way too good of a deal to justify spending extra money to get the 225 or 235, so it is what it is. I've done one event on them and they feel like glue compared to my Rivals last season.

Aside from crash bolts, my car is stock. I'm wondering if you guys want to speculate a bit as to how much of a handicap I've really got. Last event I was running between 2-3 seconds behind the national-level guys, so I'm way slow, but in order to gauge my progress it'd be cool to have an idea of what my car is really capable of. My random guess is that between the lack of shocks, TRD crap, more weight, and skinnier tires, that might amount to a second?

Other question. Is anyone in a BRZ really seeing a performance benefit to a front sway bar? My car seems pretty close to neutral without one. I can't decide if a bar will just make it push like no tomorrow, or if the reduced roll will turn into a benefit. Maybe combining that with adjustable shocks would help balance it out?

Anyway, thanks and I hope everyone enjoys their 2016 season.

[chucky12012]

Originally Posted by sludge1300

Morning folks. Been lurking here for a year and just now finally posting. Anyway, I'm kicking off my second full season in a CS BRZ. I'm still not the fastest driver, def not the slowest though, and having tons of fun.

I just picked up a set of 215-45-17 RE71R's. Private seller and way too good of a deal to justify spending extra money to get the 225 or 235, so it is what it is. I've done one event on them and they feel like glue compared to my Rivals last season.

Aside from crash bolts, my car is stock. I'm wondering if you guys want to speculate a bit as to how much of a handicap I've really got. Last event I was running between 2-3 seconds behind the national-level guys, so I'm way slow, but in order to gauge my progress it'd be cool to have an idea of what my car is really capable of. My random guess is that between the lack of shocks, TRD crap, more weight, and skinnier tires, that might amount to a second?

Other question. Is anyone in a BRZ really seeing a performance benefit to a front sway bar? My car seems pretty close to neutral without one. I can't decide if a bar will just make it push like no tomorrow, or if the reduced roll will turn into a benefit. Maybe combining that with adjustable shocks would help balance it out?

Anyway, thanks and I hope everyone enjoys their 2016 season.

The best way to find out honestly is to talk to one of the local national level guys in CS and have them take your car out for a run or two. One second is probably a reasonable guess. I don't know that 215 tires are killing you though, might not be that bad. You should run pressures on the lower end of the spectrum with that size I would guess and that helps a bit.

[sludge1300]

Originally Posted by chucky12012

The best way to find out honestly is to talk to one of the local national level guys in CS and have them take your car out for a run or two. One second is probably a reasonable guess. I don't know that 215 tires are killing you though, might not be that bad. You should run pressures on the lower end of the spectrum with that size I would guess and that helps a bit.

Thanks man! Good call on that. Looking forward to our next event at Grand Sport! Funny timing, but I've been meaning to bother you specifically and haven't had a chance yet. I at the very least need to catch a ride with someone like yourself who can drive an 86 closer to the limit. Anyway, it's going to be a great season watching you guys battle it out in the old X class especially with DM driving an ND now.