2013 FRS | Documented LS2 Swap | How to DIY + Parts List + CANBUS

[vijay.dy06]

Originally Posted by spitsnaugle

Got AC installed. It worked until I floored it and it threw the belt.



I'll detail the wiring to make it work later. Basically take the blue/orange stripe relay wire from fuse box, run it to AC trigger on GM ecu. Done.

Where did you get this weld on 90* fitting?

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[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by vijay.dy06

Where did you get this weld on 90* fitting?

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Ludlow Automotive and Speed Shop in north Dayton did all of the lines, fittings and refrigerant for me. Was very reasonable at about $300 for everything.

[all4spl]

Originally Posted by spitsnaugle

Ludlow Automotive and Speed Shop in north Dayton did all of the lines, fittings and refrigerant for me. Was very reasonable at about $300 for everything.

Wow sounds like a great deal! I'll need to find something local soon hopefully.

[spitsnaugle]

Leaving for LS fest in a few hours.

Installed new Drive Shaft Shop 800HP axles and a new rear diffuser with the girlfriend:



Feeling like a lucky guy to find a girl into racing. She races a Miata that I shared with her last week while my LS2-FRS was broke last week.

[Razorlor]

Talked to you at LSFest, amazing car, can't wait to build mine!

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by Razorlor

Talked to you at LSFest, amazing car, can't wait to build mine!

Nice Meeting you there, the car got a TON of interest there. Wish I would have been able to get out and do some more racing, but after wearing the hoosiers down to the cords I called it quits.

Took 2nd on the road course in my class, and apparently won best engineered car, though I wasnt at the awards I had moved over to the carshow/manufacturers midway.

Couple of things I found on while the road course for the first time with the car:

1. Tire wear wasnt even, I didnt really notice this in autocross.
2. Tires are now shot
3. Definitely gets fuel starvation at 1/2 tank in left corners.
4. Winmax w4 pads were reasonably strong and didnt fade much (though I wasnt being super aggressive), but were extremely loud. It was commented on by spectators of how loud my car was.
5. My fresh paint job did not enjoy getting beat by flying rubber.

Fixes:

1. Going more aggressive with camber to 3.5*
2. Hoosiers 245/40 front 275/35 rear now in garage
3. Verus Fuel Door is waiting to be installed now.
4. CounterSpace Garage C2 front pads and Project Mu Club Racer rear pads to be installed this weekend
5. Ordered XPEL ULTIMATE PLUS paint protection film for bumper and lower quarters.

[Razorlor]

Originally Posted by spitsnaugle

Couple of things I found on while the road course for the first time with the car:[LIST=1]
[*]Winmax w4 pads were reasonably strong and didnt fade much (though I wasnt being super aggressive), but were extremely loud. It was commented on by spectators of how loud my car was.

Can confirm, sounded like a school bus stopping.

[spitsnaugle]

Got a Verus front splitter installed.
BRZ headlights installed.




Found a rather major issue though:


I think the rear output bushing on my trans is going. Anyone else ever hear this?

This sound only starts at 50+mph, stops at 30mph.
Clutch in/out no difference.
Gears vs Neutral make no difference.
Can be instigated and stopped by mild thrashing.
Sound location seems to be directly under the shifter.

[spitsnaugle]

Installed VERUS fuel door flap to help left hand turn fuel starvation.
This is my first step short of dropping in a Radium basket/ surge tank.




Removed my TRD duckbill and installed a Varis Arising Hyper Narrow adjustable GT wing:

[spitsnaugle]

Had a little tick after the last autocross. Turned into a knock on the road the next day, I pampered the car home and cracked open the oil filter to find a gold glitter bomb. Dropped the engine out in 4 hours. Split the trans and tore it down to the longblock to find the rods ate crank.




Full rebuild started. Rushing it to try to make it out to the last two events.

replaced almost anything oil touched:
Engine being washed and honed all around.
Heads being washed and reassembled.
k1 forged 3.622 crank (stock stroke)
wiseco 4.005 flat top pistons
callies compstar rods
LS7 Lifters
Melling 10295 oil pump.
ImprovedBaffle
Accusump

while I'm at it:
monster LT1-S clutch
new slave cylinder and remote bleed
new sikky short throw shifter
trans rebuild


If I had the time I'd do a mile 3.90 stroke, but that'd puts the turn around time to months. aiming to be rolling again by November 1st.

[Merc]

Condolences my friend, may she rise from shrapnel and carnage like a phoenix even stronger.

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[spitsnaugle]

I dont like to waste time:








and its back in, but I need to loosen the motor mounts and re-center the tail shaft.

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by spitsnaugle

I dont like to waste time:

Onward:




Next morning after getting the engine in- directly onto the dyno to ensure all is well. It pulled 350+hp several times, tuner thought we were missing spark in a clyinder, so looking at the engine with an IR camera we saw one cylinder's exhaust was cold, wiggled the spark plug boot on a better and pulled 440hp and 426lbs torque. Nearing the limit of the injectors now. The stock fuel pump is actually keeping up, only dropping pressure from 60 to 45-50 at WOT.





Swapped oil filters after the dyno, drove it on the street two days to get some minor break-in... and hit the last autocross of the year. Constantly had a crowd around the car. I let a half dozen fellow drivers behind the wheel, everyone struggled with the clutch in the grid lanes, but once they were on course it everybody loved it.







This weekend its booked for a photoshoot for APEX wheels, then its probably going into hibernation while I do some minor upgrades for next year.

[vijay.dy06]

Nice, what size tires are you running?

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