02-04-2013, 06:45 PM | #43 |
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Some pics.. I don't have step by step pics but the steps are basically as follows:
1. Lift the vehicle and safely support it (jack stands or a lift). 2. Remove the rear wheels 3. Remove the axle nut with an impact gun (or hand tools if no impact gun is available). You will need a 32mm socket for this job. Also if you are using hand tools you will need someone to stand on the brakes if the e-brake won't hold the axle from turning. 4. Ensure the the e-brake is released. 5. Remove rear brake caliper assemble (caliper, bracket and pads can all be removed together) and hang out of the way, as seen here: 6. Remove rotors (just pull on them). 7. Remove the speed sensor (10mm) on the top of the hub, the bolt is visible in this picture: 8. Remove the four bolts (14mm) bolts that hold the hub to the rear upright, three of the four are visible here: 9. Once all of them are removed you should be able to pull the hub assembly away from the car, push on the end of the axle to avoid the axle hanging up on the hub. 10. Once removed, use two of the bolts to secure the drum brake assembly to the car so that it doesn't hang: 11. Remove old lug studs using a press, or ball joint tool as shown above. 12. Install new studs using a press (if you have the right pieces, I couldn't use a press for the rears while I could for the fronts). 13. Reinstall is the opposite of the above. I used the same torque specs for the caliper bracket, hub bolts and speed sensor bolt that I used for the front. The axle nut is 136 ft/lbs. 14. Use a drift punch (or similar) to recrush the edge of the axle nut, or preferably, use a new axle nut and use the drift punch to crush the edge of the axle nut into the slot. Pic of it finished, save for the brakes being re-installed:
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04-06-2013, 03:23 AM | #44 |
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how are oe failing, just snapping? on track? or with impact?
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04-13-2013, 12:47 AM | #45 | |
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Quote:
I installed them because I wanted 10mm spacers in the back. I'm using open lugnuts. I didn't want any track tech inspection to worry that there was not enough thread engagement, so longer ones went on the front as well. I didn't like Ichiba's see thread below. ARP or Vorshlag are the way to go, ARP's are longer. I used Vorshlag open lugnuts as well, bulge nut with a reduced socket size. Not pretty, but effective. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...275#post622275
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07-09-2013, 10:40 PM | #46 |
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I just had to replace one rear stud that i effed up with my impact last week. Went pretty good, and once i removed the rotor, i just wedged something in between the hub and the plate behind it and about 4 hits the old stud was out. There is plenty of room if you're just replacing stock studs, as i did, that you don't *Have* to remove the hub from the car.
However, if I would have had the large socket to remove the axle nut, I would have gone that way.
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10-14-2013, 01:21 PM | #47 |
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How much longer over stock are the arp studs?
How big of a spacer can you run with the new wheel studs? I know people say 3-5mm max on the stock ones. I'm curious if something like a 15mm would be possible on the longer studs.
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10-15-2013, 11:39 PM | #48 |
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The ARPs should be good for 15mm. I have Vorschlag studs that are not as long and they are good for 12mm spacer.
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10-20-2013, 08:30 PM | #49 |
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I put 15mm worth of spacers on with short, closed end muteki lug nuts and the studs actually WENT THROUGH the tops of lugs lol.
I would say the ARP studs could take 25mm of spacer on it easy. I have Kics extended Neo Chro lugs on the way to replace the old ones.
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11-19-2013, 02:34 PM | #50 |
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Dave, what spacers did you end up getting and what was the front brake kit you were going to have with the stock wheels?
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12-04-2013, 12:17 AM | #51 | |
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Quote:
Wait, can you use 5mm spacers with the stock studs? For instance, the 5mm H&R Spacers are in the "DRS" series, and for DRS it says "This spacer is fitted between the wheel and hub, exhanging the existing wheel studs for longer ones. The wheels are then fitted to the hub/spacer with the existing wheel nuts." Is a 5mm spacer OK on our cars with the stock studs? I did find this thread on the topic sorry: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13427 |
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12-04-2013, 12:44 AM | #52 |
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Can you? Probably, it will barely hold.
However, you will stretch the end threads out after a few hard turns, and risk losing a wheel. 3mm stock studs, or longer studs, or bolt-on spacer. -alex |
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12-04-2013, 08:07 AM | #53 | |
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Quote:
I've been using 5mm spacers on the rear now for a couple months. Still no issues. I remember seeing somebody who had used 5mm spacers on the track before and it was just fine. It might vary a bit from wheel to wheel due to the backspacing thickness, but on rpf1s (which I have) it hasn't had any issues.
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12-16-2013, 03:09 PM | #54 |
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Just did this DIY to my front. Great write up. I am ordering 20mm slip on spacers as well.
Last edited by Ryaquinn; 12-21-2013 at 03:59 PM. |
12-21-2013, 01:29 PM | #55 |
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Just did this myself. I had to replace one stud the dealer cross threaded (used another oem stud). Thank you for the write up, it was a super easy job and took maybe an hour start to finish. I did not have to worry about the dimple when taking the axle nut off either, it came off just by loosening the nut.
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02-10-2014, 10:22 AM | #56 |
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Please add to DIY directory
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