CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by cmiovino

The price is the same as the Tarmac 2's and yes, you have to additional camber plates for those, but if you're spending that much, might as well go all the way for a few hundred more.

That's where I think the SS-1 shine. Good valving, KW build, tophats included, sub $2k price.

Even with the 949 racing top hats which are some of the cheapest around its around 500-600 more for the tarmac 2s.

I felt the SS2 was the perfect sweet spot and includes rear top mounts/ are plug and play. I think those are what really sold me on the SS2 over the SS1

[cmiovino]

Originally Posted by autoracer86

Even with the 949 racing top hats which are some of the cheapest around its around 500-600 more for the tarmac 2s.

I felt the SS2 was the perfect sweet spot and includes rear top mounts/ are plug and play. I think those are what really sold me on the SS2 over the SS1

Ah, true on the rear tophats. That would be an extra $200 right off the bat as I'd like to keep my Sach's dampers together for when rebuild time comes around.

SS-1's would be $2k starting then.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by cmiovino

This is going to be a spicy question, but for an upper-intermediate driver, what do you think the actual autocross run difference would be between going with something like the RCE SuperStreet-1's vs. Tarmac 2's?

Given all other things are equal, such as going with a 245/40/17 A052's on 17x9, having rear lower control arms, same alignment with a good 3-4 degrees up front, same power, etc.

I'm kinda torn with going with an all inclusive SS1 setup with tophats and just getting probably 95% of the same performance vs going all in with a ~$3k+ setup with the Tarmac 2's, separate tophats, etc.

Would I appreciate the Tarmac 2's as I graduate into being a more top level driver? Currently have about 10 years experience, 5 of those being on the competitive end.

It sounds like a set of our new SS2s might be a good fit for you. A bit more focused than SS1 and comes with front and rear top mounts.

For me there's a bigger jump from SS1 to SS2 than SS2 to T2. If you know you're going to end up with serious aero and would then think about experimenting with spring rates, then our T2s or our new SSR coilovers make sense.

But it's a good philosophical question lol.

Personally the SS1s fit me well...I'm less focused on being competitive and I don't run very sticky tires. Me not winning anything isn't going to be because of the suspension I'm on anyway at my level, but for some yes it's pretty important especially with 200 tw tires.

- Andrew

[Tomyyyu]

When you folks state life time warranty? What does that cover and for how long?

In addition, what sway bar do you recommend to pair with a new gen BRZ with Tarmac 2s?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cueball89]

Originally Posted by cmiovino

Ah, true on the rear tophats. That would be an extra $200 right off the bat as I'd like to keep my Sach's dampers together for when rebuild time comes around.

SS-1's would be $2k starting then.

Swapping rear top hats isn't a huge deal. You could always get some used oem rear top hats cheap I'd think.

I get the feeling from seeing your posts you autox pretty frequently and it's semi serious for you. I bought SS-1's before the SS-2's came out. I put 7kg springs on to give them a little bit more of an edge and switch the balance to more autox than street. Coilovers are a large purchase, I'd recommend buying what fits for your application and usage instead of saving the difference between the SS-1's and SS-2's. I know it's a good chunk of change.

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

our new SSR coilovers

I'm impatiently waiting to read a press release on these even though I'm not in the market to purchase anything.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Tomyyyu

When you folks state life time warranty? What does that cover and for how long?

In addition, what sway bar do you recommend to pair with a new gen BRZ with Tarmac 2s?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Our warranty covers defects....if something breaks that shouldn't or a manufacturing mistake. It doesn't cover normal rebuilds. We try to take care of our customers as best we can.

For swaybars, it depends. Stock bars work well for a fun all around street weekend track car. A stiffer front (22mm) is a popular way to go for autox, stiffer front and rear (20/16 or (22/16) for a more focused track car. Depends on other parts of the set up.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by cueball89

I'm impatiently waiting to read a press release on these even though I'm not in the market to purchase anything.

I am so busy lol. We still have a few parts to release this year.

Hope to have that press release up by Thursday!

- Andrew

[Tomyyyu]

Installed Tarmac 2s on my GR86. Been using the settings you guys have on your website for what to configure the dampening and rebound to.

But for autocross what settings would you recommend for a starting point? The car is on stock sways.

Also can I use KW rebound extenders for the rear so I can access them that way?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TurboLag23]

Autocross setup question! 2018 BRZ, CSG Tein FLA V2 (recommended starting height, street damping settings F/R), -2.8F/-1.7R camber, 0F/+1/16R total toe, corner balanced to my weight, Michelin PS4S (245/40R17) on a 17x9. Everything in this setup is new to me, aside from wheels/tires.

Overall had an excellent autocross last Saturday - car was stable under braking, initial turn-in showed neither understeer or oversteer and was very sharp, and a slight bias to oversteer under power but very easy to hold/catch. However, I noticed that I was not picking up any pebbles on the outer 1/2" of my tires, and no evidence that I was ever rolling that far over (at all four corners), even after I rebalanced to 36 psi all-around after 3-4 runs. So, I think pressures were still a bit high. For subsequent autocrosses, I plan on aiming for 35 hot all-around, then decreasing from there until I hit the sweet spot for grip and ideal wear properties.

In general, what handling and visual indicators should I be looking for that indicate I've hit this balance - or deflated too far and gone past it?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Tomyyyu

Installed Tarmac 2s on my GR86. Been using the settings you guys have on your website for what to configure the dampening and rebound to.

But for autocross what settings would you recommend for a starting point? The car is on stock sways.

Also can I use KW rebound extenders for the rear so I can access them that way?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Duuude I missed this. The settings in the guide on our website do work well as a starting point for autocross but there's potential for more. Myles can walk you through some tips if you email us or call.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by TurboLag23

Autocross setup question! 2018 BRZ, CSG Tein FLA V2 (recommended starting height, street damping settings F/R), -2.8F/-1.7R camber, 0F/+1/16R total toe, corner balanced to my weight, Michelin PS4S (245/40R17) on a 17x9. Everything in this setup is new to me, aside from wheels/tires.

Overall had an excellent autocross last Saturday - car was stable under braking, initial turn-in showed neither understeer or oversteer and was very sharp, and a slight bias to oversteer under power but very easy to hold/catch. However, I noticed that I was not picking up any pebbles on the outer 1/2" of my tires, and no evidence that I was ever rolling that far over (at all four corners), even after I rebalanced to 36 psi all-around after 3-4 runs. So, I think pressures were still a bit high. For subsequent autocrosses, I plan on aiming for 35 hot all-around, then decreasing from there until I hit the sweet spot for grip and ideal wear properties.

In general, what handling and visual indicators should I be looking for that indicate I've hit this balance - or deflated too far and gone past it?

Tire temp probe or some carefully taken photos of your car mid-corner (sounds silly but it's better than nothing). Much easier to do both of these for autox than a track day, but then much less heat in the tire as well for the tire temp probe. Tire chalk is also a method that some use.

- Andrew

[Muffled]

I installed Bilstein B14s, Verus front camber plates and eccentric camber bolts on my car last year. Ever since the install, the steering has been acting strange. It will return to centre if I put about half a turn of steering angle in during standard driving manouvers, but when I'm parking (low speed, high steering lock applications), the steering doesn't return to centre in a natural feeling way. It wants to stay "turned" in a way I haven't experienced before. What could be the symptom?

I feel it's related to the suspension install because the car didn't behave this way on stock suspension, and immediately started acting like this after install. An alignment a few days after install didn't change this. This is why I don't think it's something I didn't touch like the steering rack.

Caster is close to stock (6.1 deg, stock is 5.9deg according to my alignment sheet). The alignment I got is -2.5deg front camber, a bit of toe in all around. The car has 17x7.5 PF01s that had 245/40 Hankook Evos and 225/45 RS4s. The shop that did the alignment only used the camber plates to adjust camber and didn't touch the camber bolts. So when you open the hood, the camber plates are set unevenly.

Could that be the cause of this symptom? Could this be roll-centre related? It's been a year and a handful of autocrosses since. I'm replacing sway bar end links and getting another alignment so if there's something I could do while I'm in there that would help, I'd love to.

[marco_mc22]

Originally Posted by Muffled

I installed Bilstein B14s, Verus front camber plates and eccentric camber bolts on my car last year. Ever since the install, the steering has been acting strange. It will return to centre if I put about half a turn of steering angle in during standard driving manouvers, but when I'm parking (low speed, high steering lock applications), the steering doesn't return to centre in a natural feeling way. It wants to stay "turned" in a way I haven't experienced before. What could be the symptom?

I feel it's related to the suspension install because the car didn't behave this way on stock suspension, and immediately started acting like this after install. An alignment a few days after install didn't change this. This is why I don't think it's something I didn't touch like the steering rack.

Caster is close to stock (6.1 deg, stock is 5.9deg according to my alignment sheet). The alignment I got is -2.5deg front camber, a bit of toe in all around. The car has 17x7.5 PF01s that had 245/40 Hankook Evos and 225/45 RS4s. The shop that did the alignment only used the camber plates to adjust camber and didn't touch the camber bolts. So when you open the hood, the camber plates are set unevenly.

Could that be the cause of this symptom? Could this be roll-centre related? It's been a year and a handful of autocrosses since. I'm replacing sway bar end links and getting another alignment so if there's something I could do while I'm in there that would help, I'd love to.

90% is due to that “high” front camber setup. Totally normal. Anyway, you could set your camber at the hub for what is possible (b14 springs are wide) then use plates. Fine tuning for camber using camber bolts is a little of a pain but it’s better since keeping the SAI equal side to side would be preferable.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Muffled

I installed Bilstein B14s, Verus front camber plates and eccentric camber bolts on my car last year. Ever since the install, the steering has been acting strange. It will return to centre if I put about half a turn of steering angle in during standard driving manouvers, but when I'm parking (low speed, high steering lock applications), the steering doesn't return to centre in a natural feeling way. It wants to stay "turned" in a way I haven't experienced before. What could be the symptom?

I feel it's related to the suspension install because the car didn't behave this way on stock suspension, and immediately started acting like this after install. An alignment a few days after install didn't change this. This is why I don't think it's something I didn't touch like the steering rack.

Caster is close to stock (6.1 deg, stock is 5.9deg according to my alignment sheet). The alignment I got is -2.5deg front camber, a bit of toe in all around. The car has 17x7.5 PF01s that had 245/40 Hankook Evos and 225/45 RS4s. The shop that did the alignment only used the camber plates to adjust camber and didn't touch the camber bolts. So when you open the hood, the camber plates are set unevenly.

Could that be the cause of this symptom? Could this be roll-centre related? It's been a year and a handful of autocrosses since. I'm replacing sway bar end links and getting another alignment so if there's something I could do while I'm in there that would help, I'd love to.

Yeah I prefer camber plates to be even when possible, but it can be difficult.

But like marco said, some of that behavior is normal with more camber.

- Andrew