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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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10-08-2020, 05:17 PM | #16 |
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To reiterate, if adding two inches to intake runners would make a significant change in drivability or horse power the factory would have done it to start with.
Remember the butt dyno response directly to the amount of money spent. A real dyno is needed for real numbers. Finally, small power adders are not cumulative. Each device is measured against bone stock. Some midnight auto suppliers measure against a poorly tuned engine. We get people coming to the shop regularly claiming the dyno is wrong as they have added thousands of dollars worth of parts and added up the power that they should have. |
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10-08-2020, 06:11 PM | #17 | |
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10-08-2020, 09:54 PM | #18 | |
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Timeslips on the other hand work a treat no need for big launches, no need for drag radials, just line it up and take off, your printout tells the story.
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10-08-2020, 10:34 PM | #19 | |
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I think a dyno is far better for comparing changes on the same dyno- a time slip from a drag race is ideal for seeing if those changes mean anything outside of that controlled space. If your car makes 350whp and plants it well, and you're consistent, it's a lot better than your friend driving the car at 500whp with lots of tire spin and hitting rev limiter. |
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10-09-2020, 01:48 AM | #20 | |
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My reasons: as with the inherent variables at the strip, there are variables with a dyno, the dyno itself needs to be calibrated and temps, humidity, tyres and how it is strapped down all comes into it, for example: what torque do you have your straps at? Oil temps? Coolant temps? Oil? Fuel?AIT? CAI ram? Plus there is always that +/- hp difference from run to run which could be due to a plethora of reasons. At the strip, if you have at least some driving prowess, it is much easier to get a closer estimate of true power, and, how that power is put down. Typically you may get from 4 to 6 runs on a Wednesday night at WSID here in Sydney, all for the Princely sum of $60. if you cannot get at least 1 clean run in over those passes you should not be allowed a licence, As long as you are smooth and shift at the correct RPM point you will get a fairly accurate MPH, BUT, there is no shifting under full load on the dyno, well none if you wanted some form of accuracy in your reading. Will the strip be 100% accurate, hell no, but it will be a better judge of actual, real world power, and how your engine performsunder that curve through all the RPM's and all the gears.. I have seen alot of people going on about dyno numbers that never match up to MPH. Disclaimer: Dyno's are the only place that I would ever tune a engine, what number the algorithm makes up is no real concern, as long as my fuel and timing is optimal it is up to the engine and the sum of its parts to be as efficient as possible, from there it is to the track to see how she really runs. In the end you have 2 options: Option 1. Watch a car rev on a dyno to get number that people can circle jerk over Option 2. Run a 1/4 for a number Me, I'm an option 2 kinda guy Meh, I'm also a grumpy old opinionated arsehole, so there is that.
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10-09-2020, 06:34 AM | #21 | |
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Eg. "We lowered boost a little here but we're able to add timing and made 13wtq more at 3300rpm, and overall added about 20wtq up top" What does that mean though? It means next to nothing. It only has any value when compared with a before/after on the same car,same day, same dyno calibration. Dyno numbers are arbitrary and near meaningless. You are right that the real proof is in the pudding. Nobody cares if your car made 340whp. Let's see it roll a 12.5 like a car that read 270 on a different dyno. |
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10-09-2020, 07:24 AM | #22 | |
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Mate, I've had a few brewskis tonight, my compression kung fu is weak. In other news: yeah, what DarkPira7e said....
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10-09-2020, 09:40 AM | #23 | |
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I guess we'd quibble over the definition of "significant," in the case of a mod like the power blocks, which seem to require some degree of fiddling with the tune to extrapolate a few ponies across the rev range. |
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10-09-2020, 12:31 PM | #24 | |
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OP: I've resolved to stay N/A until I'm sure what I want to do with this car. When you look into competition classes, F/I can really restrict that and if I do eventually end up going racing F/I will be much more expensive (and likely break a lot more). There is always NASA TT4 which seems a good fit for a supercharger or relatively lower boost levels, but again I worry about the extra costs at that point. |
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10-09-2020, 12:43 PM | #25 | |
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10-09-2020, 01:29 PM | #26 | |
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Yea, especially when we are talking track reliability. If OP wants a more budget option, I think the superchargers are a better bet (particularly JRSC or other centrifugal). Either way, you're still looking at more stresses and issues than just pure N/A. |
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10-09-2020, 02:13 PM | #27 | |
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10-09-2020, 03:45 PM | #28 | |
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Meh... good problem to have, I guess, having a motor that's quite good from the factory! |
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boost, build, newbie, power, reliability |
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