Need Rear Alignment Advice

[Spuds]

I'm trying to align the rear of the car myself after doing a bunch of mods, but I don't seem to have enough toe adjustment on one side to get close to 2° of camber on one side without visible toe in while maxing out the factory adjustment. I've read that shouldn't be a problem so I am looking for advice on what to try next, or just if I'm doing something wrong. Sorry for the long post.

Rear modifications:
-Subframe inserts
-Diff inserts
-Verus LCAs
-RCE T2s
-Lowered 1"

Rear alignment before mods:
Left Camber: -1.0°
Right Camber: -1.6°
Left Toe: 0.10°
Right Toe: 0.05°

When I installed the LCAs, I tried to match them pretty closely to stock to have a baseline to start from. First drive the car tracked straight, but I did measure toe because I still had other adjustments to do.

Rear camber after mods, before messing with alignment.
Left Camber: -1.3°
Right Camber: -2.1°
Toe unknown, but tracks straight

Then I tried to even up the camber using the LCAs. After extending the left LCA ~5mm and retracting the right LCA ~2mm, I got camber closer to even.

Rear camber now:
Left: -1.8°
Right: -1.9°
Toe unknown, but visibly toed in on the left, and car no longer tracks straight.

At this point I am looking at getting rear toe aligned. The factory alignment only seems to be able to adjust toe out ~3.5mm until the nut flange hits the subframe stopper (see pic), which means there is no way to get zero toe on the left.

So, options I can think of:
1. Loosen rear subframe bolts and try to twist it a bit to even out toe, the tighten bolts. May or may not work.
2. Get another unflanged nut, but still that's only 1mm more adjustment.
3. Grind the subframe stopper down to get a bit more adjustment
4. Max out toe adjustments and the see what camber I can get
5. Lower the car another 1/8"-1/4" to get a bit more camber that way.

Anything else I missed? Is that the right order to try stuff? Have I messed up somewhere? I think I'll be happy with -1.8° for now if I can get it evenly with zero toe. Just looking for a starting point. Intent is autox if that matters.

Thanks in advance.

[strat61caster]

Would flipping the bolt around give the same clearance as getting rid of the nut?

Definitely weird as I’m sitting at -2.5 degrees and an eighth inch toe in with just rear lca, can still dial in more camber and toe as desired. Have you fully loosened the toe link adjuster to see if you can push the link outboard? I don’t recall exactly but I do believe there’sa bit of slop there.

[Spuds]

So, I tried adjusting the toe as far out as I could on the left, gave a bit of toe in on the right, and did a bit of height adjustment. Magically gained 0.6° on the left and lost 0.3° on the right...

I think I messed up and went the wrong way (up) on the right side though so that would explain some of it. But it doesn't explain gaining that much on the left. Maybe toe adjustment adds a bit of camber? Looks like the linkage is slightly below centerline of the wheel.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Would flipping the bolt around give the same clearance as getting rid of the nut?

Definitely weird as I’m sitting at -2.5 degrees and an eighth inch toe in with just rear lca, can still dial in more camber and toe as desired. Have you fully loosened the toe link adjuster to see if you can push the link outboard? I don’t recall exactly but I do believe there’sa bit of slop there.

I didn't think of that, but that's a great idea. I think it should work, I'll check next go around.

[strat61caster]

@Spuds yes adjusting one link changes both camber and toe so you have to fiddle with both to get a specific spec. Iirc the forward “toe link” actually has a bigger effect on camber but I’m not going to try and change 20 years of Subaru convention.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

@Spuds yes adjusting one link changes both camber and toe so you have to fiddle with both to get a specific spec. Iirc the forward “toe link” actually has a bigger effect on camber but I’m not going to try and change 20 years of Subaru convention.

I think you might be right on that.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Would flipping the bolt around give the same clearance as getting rid of the nut?

Definitely weird as I’m sitting at -2.5 degrees and an eighth inch toe in with just rear lca, can still dial in more camber and toe as desired. Have you fully loosened the toe link adjuster to see if you can push the link outboard? I don’t recall exactly but I do believe there’sa bit of slop there.

Weird. I couldn't get enough toe adjustment at -2.5. The first set of aftermarket toe links I got(RacerX) didn't have enough adjustment either but another forum member is running them just fine. I am running SPC toe arms now. Rear toe at zero.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Weird. I couldn't get enough toe adjustment at -2.5. The first set of aftermarket toe links I got(RacerX) didn't have enough adjustment either but another forum member is running them just fine. I am running SPC toe arms now. Rear toe at zero.

I am lowered about 1.5” not sure if I’d be able to get much more at oem ride height but since spud’s is on kw’s i figured they were around an inch anyway.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

I am lowered about 1.5” not sure if I’d be able to get much more at oem ride height but since spud’s is on kw’s i figured they were around an inch anyway.

I was the same ride height as you. Also on T2's just like Spuds.