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05-14-2013, 03:58 PM | #15 |
Small penis big dreams
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thats what i ment. like a 1:16 scale
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Fuel pump, FIC 770 injectors, custom header back, perrin resonated CBE 277hp 93 octane 370hp on E-85 |
05-14-2013, 04:37 PM | #16 | |
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Quote:
the fuse taps for my dash cam i use come out ait under a centimeter so that cover looks abit small to fit it (assuming you used the same kind of taps)
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05-14-2013, 04:44 PM | #17 | |
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In my model I put 2cm of headroom and sticks out 1cm based on guestimations from this pic in the DIY
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Last edited by Books; 05-14-2013 at 11:00 PM. |
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05-14-2013, 04:47 PM | #18 |
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the first pic looks like the ones i use. i think the second picture is of the regular fuse set up. Oh! and dont forget to add a hole or slot on the side so the wires feed through
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05-14-2013, 10:42 PM | #19 |
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A word of caution. We had a high of 99F here in Minneapolis today, and a 3D printed part I had did not hold up well. It was a little deformed after sitting inside a hot car for most of the day.
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05-14-2013, 11:07 PM | #20 | |
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Going for try #2 right now. This is what I could find at the moment, i'm going to try to get some acrylic panels over the weekend if I have the time. Notice the high precision leveling magazine.
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05-15-2013, 12:34 AM | #21 |
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Another quick update:
Partial success... My makeshift heatbox didn't quite do the trick. It's better but I still have pretty bad layer adhesion. I'm still getting wisps of plastic around the corners but I'm not going to change my extruder settings until i'm sure that it's not related to the heat issue. Even though the print failed, I think it's good enough to do a test fit. It also looks like the walls are bit too thin and flimsy to me. I'm going to beef up the walls by another millimeter. Anyways, hang tight guys! My next update will hopefully be next week after I get these issues resolved. As a last resort, I can always move my printer back up to the old spot.
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05-18-2013, 08:06 PM | #22 |
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Weekend update:
Couldn't find any acrylic but found some steel sheets instead! After some electrical tape, I call this good enough. The official cover costs $100 and comes with an acrylic door so it's really nice. This cost me about $20 so i'm quite happy. I thickened up the walls and the print came out pretty good. It fixed the wisping but the layers still look like they're barely holding on. Otherwise, it came out really clean. The top portion of the hole on the left didn't print correctly These holes came out really nice Fitament: Had some time today so I went out and did a test fit. Turns out the add-a-circuit sticks out a couple mm more than I had anticipated... so close but easy fix. The walls were thicker on this one so I wasn't able to bend it. What sucks is that I have to take the whole lower panel off to fit it on, oh well. I took fuses out just to see a fit and it was perfect fit. It fit quite snug and actually 'snapped' in place. (Forgot to take a pic) So what's left is to push the wall just a few mm out and it should be done. I was able to use my first (bad) print and bend it in, looks great (sorta) Here's a back view. No more time to tinker today. I'll make the changes in the next few days and give another update. It should be a perfect fit this next time.
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Last edited by Books; 05-18-2013 at 08:20 PM. |
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05-22-2013, 11:37 AM | #23 |
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Another update:
So I think i'm going consider this the final version Interior Fuse Cover Mode Fitament looks near perfect and somewhat snaps right in. I'm still having some heat issues and getting wisps and so-so layer adhesion because of that. However the prints are still pretty good and i'm going to call this piece done. So in this version I've extended the front a bit to fit the add-a-curcuit and covered the hole to help with prints. I also thinned out the walls by a millimeter, as I had overreacted. Here's some crappy phone pics (accidentally with flash): You can see that V3 is just a bit longer than V2 to fit the add-a-circuit. You can see a crack in a layer (which was my fault) Here's some fitament pictures: Fits pretty well! There's some room between the Magic Pro and the extended case The back is a bit cracked, but that's due to my layer issues. A normal print should just bend so it should snap right in. You can clearly see the wisps, but it's not a big deal. YOu can see the add-a-circuit has enough room. And there's room for other additions to the rear of the fuse. Time for another project I might make a slim version because I don't plan on adding any more circuits to my fuse box, should be simple since it fits now. Another route (instead of this big cover) was to just make holes in the normal cover. I was worried about water getting in so I didn't. Next up probably a front tow hook cover. Development time should pick up one I figure out this heat issue... but slow down when the weather gets nicer out
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05-29-2013, 04:36 AM | #24 |
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@Books Ready to sell yet? Still interested in one
Im trying to hunt down the engine fuse box cover too for an idea i have. Is this plastic resistant enough to go in the engine bay?
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06-02-2013, 10:17 PM | #25 | |
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Quote:
However, there is a site called Shapeways that will print models for you. I've uploaded it here: http://www.shapeways.com/model/11319...use-cover.html (Expensive, imo!) If you do end up ordering from there, I'm definitely interested in seeing how it ended up! And as always, the 3D model is up for download on thingiverse and anyone with a 3d printer can use that file to print one up. And for the engine bay, I'm not sure. The material is just regular ABS plastic. After some quick googling, the material has a melting point of 221°F (105°C). And engine bay temps go from 100 to 200 for other cars. You'd have to do some measurements to be sure.
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06-02-2013, 10:43 PM | #26 |
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Awww bummer
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12-27-2013, 03:01 PM | #27 |
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Nice, I really want to get into printing. I do metal fabrication for a living I think printing would really help check ideas before wasting money and time.
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12-27-2013, 03:33 PM | #28 |
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I do that all the time it's a great way to test fit parts and avoid wasted time and material.
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