OEM lug nuts the lightest?

[CrowsFeast]

Originally Posted by AndMsc

Are these the lightweight ones or the heavy duty ones?https://www.counterspacegarage.com/c...ugnuts-m12x125
If they are not the lightweight ones, can you share the correct link, please?

Thanks, Andrei

since those say chromoly steel I'd say those are the HD setup. Here are the aluminum ones:
https://www.counterspacegarage.com/p...-m12x125-black

[AndMsc]

Originally Posted by CrowsFeast

since those say chromoly steel I'd say those are the HD setup. Here are the aluminum ones:
https://www.counterspacegarage.com/p...-m12x125-black

hmm.. I saw those but they are 24g/lug nut.
From the table below, I tought they have some which weight 92g/5nuts.
Lug nuts (x5)
0.590lbs | 267.6g - Muteki SR48 (Source)
0.440lbs | 199.5g - Muteki SR35 (Source)
0.410lbs | 185.9g - Gorilla Chrome Tuner (Source)
0.275lbs | 124.7g - OEM (Source) (Additional Source)
0.250lbs | 113.3g - Rays Engineering (Source)
0.250lbs | 113.3g - VMS Racing (Source)
0.202lbs | 092.0g - CSG aluminum (Source)
0.144lbs | 065.3g - Gorilla forged aluminum (Source)

[CrowsFeast]

Originally Posted by AndMsc

hmm.. I saw those but they are 24g/lug nut

Ya, I see the page says 24g/nut but from the options I saw on their site (and the fact they're aluminium) I believe those are the correct ones. From CSG's post I guess they're actually more like 18.4g/nut

Originally Posted by CSG David

0.04 lbs (18.4 grams) per lug nut. Weight was done by third party individual: @Captain Insano

[CSG Mike]

Unless you are meticulous, go with strong, not light, for lug nuts, regardless of brand.

[949 Racing]

0.264lbs | 120g - 949 Racing 7075 T-56 forged aluminum -5 lugs 12x1.25. 24g each
http://949racing.com/lugs-valves.aspx

Our lugs are not designed to be the lightest. That's folly. As a race team with few national championships, we focus on durability and serviceability. We use a 19mm hex instead of the smaller 17mm hex. This make a stronger lug. We also run the threads all the way to the end of the lug. The flange on the bottom forms a positive stop to the socket to aid in fast installation.

We have used these lugs in our enduro cars where we're changing all four tires, four times during the Thunderhill 25 hours. We use cordless impact guns to remove and install. no torque wrench. Guns calibrated to deliver roughly 100 ft-lbs. Zero issues.

Primary benefit for a HPDE, autocrosser or race car is that if you cross thread the lug, the lug dies but saves the stud. Having a ruined stud can end your race on a 4 lug car. We can't take that chance. As a bonus, they shed heat a bit better than steel or titanium lugs.

Steel lugs wear out too. We have found that steel or our forged alloy lugs last about the same. For light users, say 2 auto-x a year, they'll last pretty much forever. For enduro teams racing 4-6 times a year plus practice HPDE events, they'll last 2-3 years, about the same as steel lugs in the same use.

Pro tips:

-Regardless of lug brand, always re-torque lugs after first drive on new wheels. They will be loose.

-Retorque when wheels are cold. So right before yo go out each HPDE session, not right after you come off track.

-Hot lugs expand, aluminum more so. A 19mm socket will be a tight fit on a hot 19mm lug. We use 3/4" impact sockets for hot lugs.

- Always rotate lug at least one full turn by hand on stud before hitting it with ugga dugga. NEVER start a lug with the gun.

-Do not lube lugs or studs. That just attracts dirt that grinds your lugs to junk. Just plain clean parts will work best. If your OCD burns and you need to put something on, dry graphite lube is the only thing you should use. That's what NASCAR uses.

-Replace lugs when they feel wobbly on the stud, or have damage thread or any other damage you feel might compromise its structural integrity

- Real talk. Lugs, like so many other thing on a track car, are consumables. Don't expect them to last forever. Strictly street use though, they should pretty much last forever.