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Old 10-09-2019, 10:37 AM   #113
YamahaR86
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Originally Posted by TRAKRAVN View Post
Hey all,

Thanks so much for this lengthy and informative thread. Ive been searching for quite a bit about the exact same issues Iíve had, and all this info will hopefully be of great help.

I am hoping that because the symptoms as described are identical to my situation, that my fix will also be something simple like some retainer clips that decided they didnít want to play anymore.

I havenít purchased any replacement parts yet, but am preparing to drop the trans again to see whatís going on. In trying to prepare for the job Iíd of course like to get as much ready to go before hand as possible.

I am planning on getting replacement clips, and a new *NEW style* TOB.

Do you recommend still replacing the hydraulic components still(slave/master)?

Also, I have seen recommendations to replace front bearing cover with TOB sleeve/shaft part. (Not sure on exact name). What are your thoughts on doing this all at once to hopefully never have to drop the transmission again (If that part is installed with the others it will bring every part in that area to either new, or installed a few months back with the original new PP/TOB/FW/Clutch etc.

Thanks in advanced, and again for this great thread @Ultramaroon @humfrz and @Rybot

I would also upgrade your clutch fork and pivot while you're in there.


My OEM had the clutch squeak, I took it in and fought the dealership to take it apart to look. They found some rust and lubed it. It squeaked again a week or so later.


I recently upgraded clutch, FW, fork and pivot myself 2 months ago. I 'm around 2k miles on it now and no squeaks. Hopefully it doesn't return.
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Old 10-09-2019, 10:49 AM   #114
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Originally Posted by TRAKRAVN View Post
Hey all,

Thanks so much for this lengthy and informative thread. Ive been searching for quite a bit about the exact same issues Iíve had, and all this info will hopefully be of great help.

I am hoping that because the symptoms as described are identical to my situation, that my fix will also be something simple like some retainer clips that decided they didnít want to play anymore.

I havenít purchased any replacement parts yet, but am preparing to drop the trans again to see whatís going on. In trying to prepare for the job Iíd of course like to get as much ready to go before hand as possible.

I am planning on getting replacement clips, and a new *NEW style* TOB.

Do you recommend still replacing the hydraulic components still(slave/master)?

Also, I have seen recommendations to replace front bearing cover with TOB sleeve/shaft part. (Not sure on exact name). What are your thoughts on doing this all at once to hopefully never have to drop the transmission again (If that part is installed with the others it will bring every part in that area to either new, or installed a few months back with the original new PP/TOB/FW/Clutch etc.

Thanks in advanced, and again for this great thread @Ultramaroon @humfrz and @Rybot
Trakravn, I've since solved pretty much all of my clutch problems since this post was made. I didn't mean to ghost the thread like this, but I kinda forgot.

If you're having the same squeaking as was shown in the video, I'll give you some words of caution. The REAL reason my system was making that noise was NOT from the throw out bearing, but rather the pivot point where the fork rests on the pivot ball.

I had greased everything liberally, but after this noise kept coming back, I eventually realized it was the grease. That grease was too thin and would get removed too easily with the normal wear and tear of everyday use. I also have bushings everywhere, so my drivetrain sees extra vibration which would increase the "use" of the grease. I had used shin etsu grease or however that's spelled.

My full solution was not a normal one. I chose to nuke the system from orbit. I can't remember if I had it at the time I posted this thread, but I actually changed the entire clutch system. I went with a Southbend clutch and reused my OEM flywheel, then installed a hydraulic release bearing from moneyshift racing.

My system is now practically flawless and the pedal effort is only slightly heavier than OEM despite holding 400 ftlbs or whatever the clutch holds.

That said, if you're looking to fix a similar sounding squeak, yours might be the actual throw out bearing. The clips are reusable but new ones won't hurt.

Get a new bearing since there's no use dropping the trans and not doing that while you're there. Get a forged clutch fork and pivot ball if you wanted peace of mind. You don't need anything else. Grease the contact points in the system after you clean them off.

These points are:
-Slave cylinder to top of fork (just enough to fill the hole)
-Back of fork in the socket area (just enough to fill the hole and not bulge out)
-Pivot ball on the trans (the socket area contacts here so you don't need tons)
-The front of the fork tines where they contact the throw out bearing (just a small dab)
-the input shaft sleeve that the throw out bearing slides (thin and evenly, you don't want to over grease it, just make the sliding smooth)

If you have any more questions, please feel free to ask. I've had my trans out about a dozen times now and don't want anyone to fear the work ahead of them.
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Old 10-09-2019, 01:55 PM   #115
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I had forgotten about this thread. Just recently someone else had a problem with kickback from a defective new pressure plate.


I also replaced my TOB again a couple weeks ago. This time I noticed that the clutch fork main pivot had developed an odd wear pattern. Because of that flat spot on the face of the ball, the inside surface of the socket developed a bump in the center to match it. I took a Dremel to the high surface and lapped the ball and socket together before reinstalling everything. It won't last forever but, meh.
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Old 10-09-2019, 02:03 PM   #116
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I had forgotten about this thread. Just recently someone else had a problem with kickback from a defective new pressure plate.


I also replaced my TOB again a couple weeks ago. This time I noticed that the clutch fork main pivot had developed an odd wear pattern. Because of that flat spot on the face of the ball, the inside surface of the socket developed a bump in the center to match it. I took a Dremel to the high surface and lapped the ball and socket together before reinstalling everything. It won't last forever but, meh.

Is this the OEM pivot or the upgraded verus one?
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Old 10-09-2019, 02:10 PM   #117
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Is this the OEM pivot or the upgraded verus one?
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