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DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Guides For all DIYs.


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Old 08-13-2018, 06:14 PM   #85
MJones_RB
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Is the grease used just regular moly grease, or something proprietary? I know the little tube provided in the kit should be enough for all bushings, but just in case...
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Old 08-13-2018, 07:08 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by Lakitu View Post
YESSS, got clearance with a crowbar! Woot woot


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Old 08-13-2018, 08:33 PM   #87
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DIY - Whiteline Rear Crossmember Mount Insert Bushings

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Originally Posted by MJones_RB View Post
Is the grease used just regular moly grease, or something proprietary? I know the little tube provided in the kit should be enough for all bushings, but just in case...

I used this, best stuff out there IMO:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CN7B4I..._LmICBbCBJCYGS
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Old 08-13-2018, 09:11 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by MJones_RB View Post
Is the grease used just regular moly grease, or something proprietary? I know the little tube provided in the kit should be enough for all bushings, but just in case...
CG-NLGI #2 is what you need.

https://www.amazon.com/LubriMatic-11.../dp/B000LNRY3M

Get's the job done, doesn't cost much and is better than most everything else sold for automotive suspension.


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I used this, best stuff out there IMO:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CN7B4I..._LmICBbCBJCYGS
That stuff is overpriced and meh.
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Old 04-11-2020, 03:31 AM   #89
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did this upgrade today. this is not as easy a job as the instructions make out. I used this video as a guide also:



mine are all installed, torqued to spec and didn't cross thread anything.

cross threading these bolts on the way back in would be way too easy - as others have found.

my tips: get the car up on a stand (i used a quickjack), use a couple of bottle jacks to support the rear of the subframe and the front of the diff.

have a trolley jack handy to help adjusting the control arms to align the subframe when putting the bolts back in.

don't use power tools - just f$#ken don't. I used a breaker bar to release the bolts and normal ratchet when it was loose.

When putting the bolts back in make sure to align the subframe with the chassis bolts per the video so you can hand thread the bolts back in. shine a torch up into the hole so you can see when it is all aligned properly.

with adjusting I could hand tighten all of my bolts most of the way in before having to use hand tools. if you cannot get the bolts in 60% - 70% of the way by hand you need to back it out, adjust the subframe using the jacks, by hand pressure, or having someone lean on it with their foot, until you can get the bolts in by hand. ANY kind of resistance - back it out and adjust it so you can get it in 60% - 70% of the way.

Have the subframe resting on the jacks and other subframe bolts that you're not working on so it hangs approx 15mm off the chassis so you can get the bushes slid in. this allows you the play to adjust the subframe to get each bolt back in. do them one at a time and leave them all hanging down 10mm - 15mm after doing them back up so you have the adjustment in the subframe to get them all back in by hand. when they are all in, jack the subframe up to the body, tighten the bolts up and then torque to spec.

be patient!! I was ready to throw a bolt to the sh#thouse because I couldn't get it hand threaded in. Having an extra jack to push up on the lower control arm helped a lot. Once you do your first one you will be set. Just take your time.

This is a very worthwhile upgrade and well worth the hassle!

Last edited by sneaky_pete; 05-14-2020 at 05:02 AM.
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Old 04-20-2020, 02:50 AM   #90
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If anyone does this and has an issue with the crossthreading like i did, I cleaned up my threads and actually installed a bolt from a wrx/sti afterwards that worked perfectly. Same pitch but slightly shorter.

But if anyone crossthreads during their install, i can send my bolt that i used to help clean the threads to you.
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Old 08-02-2020, 10:02 AM   #91
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Installed on my 2018 BRZ yesterday. Had the same corrosion on the passenger side rear subframe bolt (none on the other bolts), car probably didn't see salt (I suspect it was driven only spring to fall by the first owner for a year and then traded in). I had the car up on 4 jack stands and used a bottle jack to support the subframe. Did back first, then front.
After removing the bolts, lowered the subframe with the bottle jack about an inch. Raised the subframe back with the bottle jack and didn't have any issue getting the bolts back in. For the front bushings I supported the front of the diff.
Drivetrain lash is greatly reduced, I'm very happy with this mod. Didn't notice any added NVH (I already have the transmission/shifter and steering rack bushings). Next would be the diff support bushings (KDT925).
Regarding the torque specs, I've trusted the specs in this DIY (from the shop manual) vs. Whiteline - it felt much more inline with the loosening torque (especially the front 14mm bolts - 54 vs 16).
My snag during the install was lack of 1/2 drive extension. Passenger side had good clearance, but for the rear driver side I had to remove the wheel to get more clearance around the exhaust.
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Old 01-17-2021, 02:23 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new2subaru View Post
I installed these today. It makes an amazing difference!

I took the tires off and snugged up a floor jack onto the diff. All work was done from the side of the wheel well. I unbolted all of the bolts 10 turns so the subframe would come down as even as possible. Then I lowered the jack just enough to get the bushings in the rear. I then removed the drivers side rear bolt added the bushings and reinstalled the bolt. The subframe wants to drop more with the bolt out and at an angle. It just needed to be pried forward slightly to get the bolt to hand thread again. The rest were the same. Only slight tweaking was needed and all bolts were started by hand.

I was dreading doing this mod and it was done in an hour. I've had them for 2 years! I'm relieved...
Just finished doing this install using the method in @new2subaru's comment. Lifted the car on all four sides, removed the wheels, then unbolted all main bolts around 12 turns or so. Supported the subframe by the differential the whole time, removed one bolt at a time and inserted bushings one by one. First back, then front. Using new2subaru's method the bolts went back in by hand even though I used a single creeper jack to lower the subframe. It was much easier than I thought, but very long, tedious, and involved in order to not make a single mistake fucking up the threads or dropping the crossmember on your face like some youtube kids did on a video.

Also had to remove the S pipe from my catback so the xmember didn't rest on it as it lowered, and had to remove some plastic aero panels under the gas tank(s?). I used a steel bristle brush and isopropyl to clean the bolts, as well as cleaned all contact surfaces. Lubricant included was more than enough for all bushings, kinda wished I lubed all of them in one go evenly instead of leaving remaining lube. Removing wheels made the job 10x easier.

I'm just curious, did everyone torque the bolts to service manual specifications? The Whiteline instructions had a much lower figure, like 71 lb ft or something instead of 107 for the service manual. The bolts torqued fine with 107 lb but the bushings look ballooned or sandwiched due to the pressure. Not sure if this is ok or not.
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