Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[toast]

Originally Posted by CallmeDave

Bought the Supercharger and ordered the ECUTech and tune for delicious. Looking forward to starting the install soonish.

Lucked out and my kit was made this year. It has the V2 surge tank and I hope it has the fixed actuator.
I called Edelbrock to ask about what has changed in the kit over the last few years and they had no idea....

There is no 'fixed actuator'. They are looking at a fix, but you will have received the same POS that everyone else has.

[Bunsin]

Originally Posted by Bunsin

I’ll take a look. The Bluetooth app is reading 65% continuous, but that could just be lagged from the actual sensor. After seeing how high the AFR was and watching the short term fuel trims (and frankly finding no other vac leak), I figured I would go ahead and do a tear down. The local dealer did the valve spring recall a month ago and apparently reused the intake and exhaust gaskets as well as didn’t torque down the bolt next to the #1 cylinder. There was fouling in the #1 intake plenum that would seem to indicate a problem. Hoewer I’m not really sure that is just it. I’m replacing all the gaskets and the coils as long as I’m in there (plugs were done during the recall) as well as making sure they didn’t screw anything else up. I really think one of my DW700cc fuel injectors might be bad (again maybe #1?), but I’ll wait until I get all the other things in place before swapping out injectors that have less than 20k on them...

What makes me think you are onto something with the ETOH sensor is that this problem started when I switched over. I assumed the actuator leak was then the issue but it was only one of at least two issues. I updated the ProECU software and I now see the ETOH %. - many thanks

BTW I went with IP ignition direct coils which should help with weak spark.

Well I figure I should come back with "fixed it" post...

There were three issues. The first one was the leaking actuator which got warrantied by Edelbrock (I had them overnight it and they requested that I send back the old one as they want to figure out what is going wrong with these). The second issue was the Toyota dealer that did my valve spring recall did not use the new intake gasket that came with the recall kit instead they reused the old gasket as well as failed to tighten down the bolt near cylinder #1. It was leaking under load. Third and by far the most important, it turns out the DW 300C fuel pump ate itself. There were metal shavings in the fuel pump housing and the filter was a black mess (I checked the tank and there is no sign of foreign materials in it so whether that came from 'bad gas' or from when the pump lost it I have no clue?). The pump was still good enough to push 35 PSI, but it should have been pushing ~58 PSI (Blue tooth Delicious Tuning App).

I'm close to being back to where it was for acceleration (0-60 in 4.5 sec on an auto and actual high end power) Now I can give my kid back his BRZ. I will miss shifting though.

[CallmeDave]

Originally Posted by toast

There is no 'fixed actuator'. They are looking at a fix, but you will have received the same POS that everyone else has.

Oh, damn it!

[Peaches86]

Thanks for the insight on my possible problems with the new supercharger on my last post a couple weeks ago.

I decided to go with the dual radium catch can setup to help with the oil buildup I'm getting in the piece between my intake and the blower. Only thing is I can't really use the instructions from Radium because they are for a N/A 86. I'm having trouble figuring out which tubes that run to and from the supercharger system to use for both of my catch cans. Obviously I know the names of the tubes I should be using, I just don't know which ones they are when I'm looking at the engine.

I did a bunch of searching and I found a few pics from a user who installed one catch can but he reversed the layout for the PVC catch can to the driver side.

Basically does anyone have pictures of their dual catch can setup that shows which tubes to use for the in and out of both the PVC and Crankcase catch cans?? I want to install it soon but I want to make sure that I am hooking up the correct tubes in the right fashion.

Once again I appreciate all the help, you guys rock!

[toast]

In standard Edelbrock layout the CCV (driver side) vent comes out of the motor underneath the AC compressor, does a gentle 180 degree bend and then goes to the metal nipple in the air filter holder. Using 1/2" ID hose, connect the CCV output back to the top of the driver side can (this one has the larger hose barbs) then connect the lower barb of the can out to the air filter nipple.

The PCV side goes from the PCV valve on the passenger side rear of the motor and up to the bottom of the 3 nipples on nose of the supercharger. Using 3/8" ID hose connect the PCV valve to the top hose barb on the passenger side can, then run another line from the bottom hose barb of the can to the bottom nipple on the supercharger nose.

I don't have pics, but I think that is a pretty clear description.

[toast]

All,

I'm on the Delicious v25 Edelbrock tune. Zach did a few revisions for me before he left, but after that I removed the supercharger and found a small tear in the intake manifold gasket. I reinstalled with a new gasket and used assembly lube all over it to make sure it didn't fold over when sliding the supercharger forward and backward to connect the coolant lines. After doing that my STFT showed consistent negative trims in the 10-15% region, so Zach's work was done partially making up for a small intake leak. I reverted to the base v25 map and am waiting for v26 to come out in the next few weeks.

I've never been happy with the throttle response going from idle and I know I shouldn't judge until I get fully tuned, but can anyone with a fully tuned set up describe what happens at idle when you blip the throttle? If I do it quickly and with less than 15% throttle input I can see the accelerator angle register the blip when I'm doing a log but the engine rpm does not move. If I stay with a quick stab and go deeper into the throttle (20-25%) the engine stumbles and then the revs will jump up. The reason I ask is that this delay in response makes leaving every stop annoying because it isn't a consistent delay and the lurching it can cause makes me feel like I don't know how to drive with a clutch.

Other's experiences?

[devtec]

Originally Posted by toast

In standard Edelbrock layout the CCV (driver side) vent comes out of the motor underneath the AC compressor, does a gentle 180 degree bend and then goes to the metal nipple in the air filter holder. Using 1/2" ID hose, connect the CCV output back to the top of the driver side can (this one has the larger hose barbs) then connect the lower barb of the can out to the air filter nipple.

The PCV side goes from the PCV valve on the passenger side rear of the motor and up to the bottom of the 3 nipples on nose of the supercharger. Using 3/8" ID hose connect the PCV valve to the top hose barb on the passenger side can, then run another line from the bottom hose barb of the can to the bottom nipple on the supercharger nose.

I don't have pics, but I think that is a pretty clear description.

This might help:



I also have a video walking through all the tubing. PM me if you’d like to see it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Peaches86]

Originally Posted by toast

In standard Edelbrock layout the CCV (driver side) vent comes out of the motor underneath the AC compressor, does a gentle 180 degree bend and then goes to the metal nipple in the air filter holder. Using 1/2" ID hose, connect the CCV output back to the top of the driver side can (this one has the larger hose barbs) then connect the lower barb of the can out to the air filter nipple.

The PCV side goes from the PCV valve on the passenger side rear of the motor and up to the bottom of the 3 nipples on nose of the supercharger. Using 3/8" ID hose connect the PCV valve to the top hose barb on the passenger side can, then run another line from the bottom hose barb of the can to the bottom nipple on the supercharger nose.

I don't have pics, but I think that is a pretty clear description.

Thank You!!

I was able to read your description while looking a the edelbrock installation binder to figure out what I need to do and more importantly which tubes to connect to the catch cans. I have a great understanding now of what to do, now I have to figure out how to access some of these tubes.

For people following this thread and interested in visual aids for finding the right tubes to install your dual catch cans with the edelbrock kit, look at the pictures of step 64 for the passenger side PVC valve location and tube, and look at step 97 for the location and tube of the drivers side CCV valve. That helped me understand a lot!

My main concern is if accessing the passenger PVC valve, and accessing the drivers side CCV valve is possible without removing the blower and AC compressor?

[toast]

PCV valve is easy. CCV isn't a valve, it is just a big nipple (the V in this case stands for vent). If you have small hands and the right tools you can get the CCV hose off but it depends on what orientation the hose clamp was left in when it was installed. Probably easiest to remove the belt and the three AC pump bolts to get to it.

[Colin86]

Originally Posted by toast

All,

Other's experiences?

Are you running stock injectors/fuel pump?

I too am on V25, fully tuned and running well. Setup is edelbrock/dBox/flex fuel/injectors/pump.

I have the exact same behavior you do, there's a slight dip in revs during most blips (or throttle tip in) before the revs "recover" and blip upward as intended. Like you've experienced it's most noticeable from idle, but I can notice it other places as well when blipping from a place of low throttle. It doesn't affect my driveability as I've gotten used to it, but it was slightly frustrating early on. Mostly because mid corner on track dipping into throttle can result in a VERY slight dip followed by a VERY slight "surge" in power -emphasis on slight. I've overcome this by a tiny bit of maintenance throttle in the corner if I need to modulate.

I had initially logged this blip behavior for Zach (and personally verified it could be seen in logs) and he wasn't able to tune it out. After dealing with it for awhile I began to theorize it may not be tune related but rather a mechanical nuance. My shot in the dark guess is when the throttle is blipped from idle (or low throttle input) the bypass valve closes as a result and the motor is now tasked with extra parasitic loss driving the blower all while having an intake plenum that's mostly vacuum. The slight dip could be the parasitic loss of the motor driving the blower before getting air in the plenum/engine (let alone boost) to assist overcoming the added resistance of the blower without a bypass. This empty plenum theory somewhat checks out in practice, when I give the car slight to moderate throttle and then immediately blip the "rev dipping" behavior seems to be minimized or non existent.

No idea if the above theory valid, but it makes sense given my limited knowledge on the subject. Hope this helps!

[Migit109]

@devtec
QQ Whats the ground wire running from your throttle body intended for?

[Bunsin]

Originally Posted by Peaches86

Thanks for the insight on my possible problems with the new supercharger on my last post a couple weeks ago.

I decided to go with the dual radium catch can setup to help with the oil buildup I'm getting in the piece between my intake and the blower. Only thing is I can't really use the instructions from Radium because they are for a N/A 86. I'm having trouble figuring out which tubes that run to and from the supercharger system to use for both of my catch cans. Obviously I know the names of the tubes I should be using, I just don't know which ones they are when I'm looking at the engine.

I did a bunch of searching and I found a few pics from a user who installed one catch can but he reversed the layout for the PVC catch can to the driver side.

Basically does anyone have pictures of their dual catch can setup that shows which tubes to use for the in and out of both the PVC and Crankcase catch cans?? I want to install it soon but I want to make sure that I am hooking up the correct tubes in the right fashion.

Once again I appreciate all the help, you guys rock!

I initially did the same setup, but eventually removed the catch can that hooks into the air filter housing (there was never any oil in that one). I am dumping the other one every few weeks in the winter due to condensation, but that could be because of the Perrin oil cooler I did at the same time. I put the other catch can on my BRZ.

[toast]

Originally Posted by Colin86

Are you running stock injectors/fuel pump?

I too am on V25, fully tuned and running well. Setup is edelbrock/dBox/flex fuel/injectors/pump.

I have the exact same behavior you do, there's a slight dip in revs during most blips (or throttle tip in) before the revs "recover" and blip upward as intended. Like you've experienced it's most noticeable from idle, but I can notice it other places as well when blipping from a place of low throttle. It doesn't affect my driveability as I've gotten used to it, but it was slightly frustrating early on. Mostly because mid corner on track dipping into throttle can result in a VERY slight dip followed by a VERY slight "surge" in power -emphasis on slight. I've overcome this by a tiny bit of maintenance throttle in the corner if I need to modulate.

I had initially logged this blip behavior for Zach (and personally verified it could be seen in logs) and he wasn't able to tune it out. After dealing with it for awhile I began to theorize it may not be tune related but rather a mechanical nuance. My shot in the dark guess is when the throttle is blipped from idle (or low throttle input) the bypass valve closes as a result and the motor is now tasked with extra parasitic loss driving the blower all while having an intake plenum that's mostly vacuum. The slight dip could be the parasitic loss of the motor driving the blower before getting air in the plenum/engine (let alone boost) to assist overcoming the added resistance of the blower without a bypass. This empty plenum theory somewhat checks out in practice, when I give the car slight to moderate throttle and then immediately blip the "rev dipping" behavior seems to be minimized or non existent.

No idea if the above theory valid, but it makes sense given my limited knowledge on the subject. Hope this helps!

That is exactly what I'm getting and it is annoying as shit. I'm going to see if v26 can fix it, but I'm thinking along the same lines as you that it is the behavior of the bypass valve. I finally have all my parts together to build an electric bypass actuator; I think as a first pass I'm going to grab the RPM signal going to the tach as another input to my Arduino and not let the valve move under 2k rpm.

[Peaches86]

Originally Posted by Bunsin

I initially did the same setup, but eventually removed the catch can that hooks into the air filter housing (there was never any oil in that one). I am dumping the other one every few weeks in the winter due to condensation, but that could be because of the Perrin oil cooler I did at the same time. I put the other catch can on my BRZ.

Really? Yeah I have heard that there usually isn't any fluids or blow by in the CCV side that you are referring to that goes into the air box. I thinking of not installing that catch can and just doing the PVC catch can on the passenger side, because that seems to be where I am getting all the blow by/ oil from thats mucking up the mass air flow sensor. Plus attaching the CCV catch can after the supercharger is already on looks really tough so I dont think it'll be worth it.

So you have two 86's? One boosted and one not?