11-22-2021, 12:24 PM | #15 |
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Just wanted to clarify that the starter on my engine has an external solenoid. 6 months ago I asked David which starter I should order, he told me to order a k24 starter. So that’s what I did. That “k24” starter had an internal solenoid. The k24 starter with internal solenoid fit better than the recent starter I ordered that is supposedly k20 and has an external solenoid. After my modifications I never tried the k24 starter but I’m sure it will fit.
I did go ahead and clearance the trans just incase but I don’t think I needed to. Last edited by Ebush; 11-22-2021 at 12:46 PM. |
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11-22-2021, 01:50 PM | #16 | |
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I do see that your starter is external and looks like the K20 starter in their photo. I think I will be just using the K24 starter and making modifications. I'm not too worried about grinding down the inside of the bellhousing.
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11-22-2021, 02:55 PM | #17 |
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I just love how they have you remove spot welds and hammer the body but won't have you grind/file down the inside of the trans to clear the starter your probably already own.
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11-22-2021, 06:53 PM | #18 |
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Anyone else have the awesome issue where you’ll never be able to drain the oil because the drain bolt it basically touching the subframe? I posted a video on my Instagram.
What part of Cincinnati are you in @visbits? I’m in Hamilton, maybe once my cars done we can meet up or something, would be cool to check out the turbo setup On yours. |
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11-22-2021, 08:07 PM | #19 | |
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Did you email them, and did they get back to you? I had planned on driving a few miles down the street to Fujimoto’s distribution warehouse to see if I could pick up a valve for this build. I had one on my FA20, and I won’t be going back. I will probably hammer the subframe and do a valve if it will clear. Weird that they didn’t design that better. Even in their writeup it is clearly blocked by the subframe.
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11-22-2021, 08:13 PM | #20 | |
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That's a pretty major oversight. I may look into a valve as well some hammering or notching as well. |
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11-22-2021, 10:22 PM | #21 |
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11-22-2021, 11:09 PM | #22 | |
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I don’t think a valve would work down there as there just isn’t any room between the current bolt and subframe. Best bet would be to install a new drain bolt. And maybe even a dipstick right there on the oil pan since our normal dipstick is pretty useless. Took me 3 minutes to install the dipstick. Just hits the baffling inside the pan. |
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11-22-2021, 11:52 PM | #23 | |
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Why not relocate it, especially if you have a tig? Buy a bung, drill a hole, install bung, hold it in place with a smaller bolt and two washers, spot weld it two or three places, remove bolt and run a bead around it or you can fuse it. Bolt and washers are not necessary but helps transfer heat if your a amateur tig welder. They may have built the pan with a tube crossmember in the proto car. |
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11-23-2021, 12:47 AM | #24 | |
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04-12-2022, 02:13 PM | #25 |
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I kinda half-heartedly put up a post where I will keep track of mine. Waiting on the KPower kit to show up then I'll add more.
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149422
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04-16-2022, 12:11 PM | #26 |
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For reference for this thread, these are the final numbers. Depending on what the new GR86 transmission proves to hold, I may do that or a CD009 or BMW transmission, and I will likely do cams, rods n pistons and at some point go back to the dyno to turn up the boost.
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11-25-2022, 03:32 PM | #27 |
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You literally addressed every concern I had about the platform..
Weight Engine Engine placement (going to) double A arm 114.3 Awesome build! |
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