08-16-2022, 10:17 AM | #337 |
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Also I think the plumbing hardware could be pieced together WAY cheaper than their off the shelf kit. If I was having starvation issues I think this may be how I'd tackle it. I wonder if two stock FRS pumps in the DW assembly could be fitted and still flow enough? |
08-16-2022, 10:23 AM | #338 | |
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that'ts true, I feel like my setup would be pretty close to plug and play but if you don't have a return line....I used racetronix for all my fuel lines and fitting and I feel like I got it all done for less than $300. Seems the outside diameter of the pump is the only thing that matters if it would fit or not?
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08-16-2022, 10:27 AM | #339 | |
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I pulled my second feed hard line up until the tank, but could easily add it back in. The surge tank is pretty cool under the hood just not sure I want that much fuel in the engine bay. It's probably unfounded paranoia though. Wondering if you could just dump a return into the fuel pump with a bulkhead fitting? Last edited by captain awesome; 08-16-2022 at 11:37 AM. |
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08-16-2022, 11:09 AM | #340 |
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Yeah, I would probably piece it all together, but the savings probably won't be huge, and I don't know about the bypass fitting, if that is a one-off.
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11-01-2022, 12:35 PM | #341 |
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I made a feeler ad. I'm still on the fence about keeping the car, making it a future track toy or selling it now. The wife would prefer I sell it to prioritize a house/family, but I should see my salary double after nursing school, so I will have the means to do both. If I get a decent offer then I guess I am willing to part with it. If not then I will keep things going, so I don't take too much of a loss.
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/7552408814.html
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11-03-2022, 09:40 AM | #342 |
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damn!
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11-20-2022, 03:10 PM | #343 |
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@visbits
@ML I’m thinking about setting up a return fuel system. That FBM kit seems fine, but I figure it could be done cheaper. I already have a fuel pressure sensor and in-engine-bay fuel pressure gauge like what they provide in this kit. I need a boost reference FPR, return line and whatever modifications or adapter needs to go to the pump. I have a DW300c already. Looking at their kit, it seems like there is a custom machined adapter, so unless I can get that by itself, I’m not sue how to piece the kit together. Any ideas? I’m also not entirely sure about the setup. I need to look at my fuel rail again because I remember thinking the return port on the bottom of the fuel rail seemed like it was awfully close to the intake manifold making a fuel return line or fitting hard to impossible to fit. The FBM kit seems to bypass the stock fuel pressure regulator in the tank, while having a fitting for the return line, but I’m not sure exactly how it is all hooked up. I don’t see installation instructions. Where does the hose come into the tank? Where does the new FPR go? My main goal is to keep fuel pressure up during boost, and so I can add more boost on the current injectors when I do the transmission upgrade. https://fullblownmotorsports.com/ful...frs-subaru-brz
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11-20-2022, 08:18 PM | #344 |
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check out Racetronix https://www.racetronix.biz/c/fuel-pr...injection/c522 Thats where I got all my fuel stuff except for the radium surge tank. Not sure why you couldn't just run a line form the stock tank to the FPR, then to the rail on one end, then put a -6 on the other end of the rail and run it back to the tank to dump into the bottom? Not sure about their fuel regulator bypass? maybe its something to trick the stock electrical system but with a Haltech you shouldn't need anything like that.
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11-21-2022, 01:33 AM | #345 | |
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Quote:
One way would be to run a line from the center of the rail back to the tank, but I don't know where it would return to the tank. Do I just get a bulkhead fitting, drill a hole in the tank and run the fuel return to the top of the tank? Does it matter if the FPR is on the return or feed side of the line? The other way to do it is I have a Y from the feed in the engine bay, and I run a line to either side of the fuel rail, which means I would need an adapter to run the damper and the feed line into the front side of the rail. Then I could run the return off the middle. This would feed both sides of the rail as evenly as possible with fuel, so there wouldn't be pressure drop along the length of the rail, if that is even possible. It may not be necessary The other way to do it is to have the feed from the center spreading out in the rail and a return at one or both ends. Again, I don't think any of this is necessary, and I don't think I will see fuel pressure drop at my power levels from injector pull. Most of the fuel pressure drop is from having a returnless system without a reference fuel pressure regulator. If I have the space for the center port then I'll use that for the return, and I guess I'll just a run a line back to the tank with a bulk head fitting and a hole drilled into the tank. I'll put the new reference fuel pressure regulator inline with the feed stuff. The question is what do I do about bypassing the in tank fuel pressure regulator like how FBM did in their kit? Without bypassing the fuel pressure regulator, it will limit my fuel pressure on my feed, so it needs to be removed, or it needs to exist in some wide open state. K-Tuned makes a center gauge mount and return adapter for their rail, but it only works with their rail. https://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/Cen...rts_p_828.html
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11-21-2022, 09:16 AM | #346 |
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for the return to the tank, you need to either get a bulk head fitting and put it on the basket cover on top with a line that goes to the bottom of the tank or if you can spend the money get something like this https://deatschwerks.com/collections...cts/9-000-7051 . Much cleaner setup, as drilling the bulkhead fitting is a pain in the ass and its very easy for it to leak. seems to me the center port would only be ideal for a returnless setup? Otherwise you would get slightly different fuel pressures acorss the injectors? Unless you have a return at either end like you said.
either way here is how I would do it, with your damper between the FPR and the guage a long with your sensor as close to the guage as possible. reuse the stock fuel lines going to and from as well. but I'm just a guy so ymmv lol
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11-21-2022, 07:17 PM | #347 |
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Full disclosure:
When I dyno'd the car, there was a "boost leak" issue that was never found. It was suggested that car was breaking up a little on the top end, and it was suggested that maybe there was an intercooler leak at high boost, but we also had two issues. One the car made almost 400whp at 10psi, but that was technically low, and to me, it seemed like the power came on a little later than normal in the RPM band than what I expected. Another issue was the ID1050x injectors maxed out at 10 psi and 400whp much sooner than expected. Maybe this was an E85 issue, but I saw other people online made more with less injector size, so something there was off. We had the idea, and still do, that the injectors were losing pressure because I didn't have a boost reference fuel pressure regulator. Well, months and months later I was jamming up a hill and suddenly I over-boosted past 10psi and at 12psi or something I got fuel/throttle cut. I avoided over-boosting with throttle control until I could get around to the wastegate (I'm working 24-36 hours, while in nursing school full time...zero days off). Eventually, I lost the ability to make boost and knew I needed to make time. I removed the wastegate, and I found the retention screw had worked loose, and the rod of the valve burst through the top of the wastegate. I thought this was a flaw with the quality of the Pulsar/replica wastegate or something, so I fixed it up by welding a steel rod straight through the end of the valve. That seemed to fix the boost issue. It is funny where the holes are in our knowledge, and I had a hole in my knowledge that I learned some time later. Well, I discovered that an external wastegate has something called a fire ring, and my wastegate came with that, but I didn't install it with the wastegate. I remember putting it in the wastegate, and it just seemed like a loose piece that slid around, so I really didn't know if it was necessary. I had never seen it talked about on install tutorials or anything. Pictures don't show it typically in position or at all. Amateur hour. I thought it was like an optional permanent, weldable mount for the wastegate. Long story short, this was causing a constant exhaust leak through the wastegate, which made the turbo have to work harder to make power. I still think I need to do a fuel system upgrade, but I've bought another wastegate. I have to get the original design to work with my flange because I don't have time to redo the exhaust manifold, but I think it will be fine now that it will have this fire ring. This means it may make more power, or at minimum, it will make more power sooner in the RPM band, and it will probably improve transient response. It may improve off-boost stuff too like gas mileage, sound, vibration and harness. I'm not sure, but I will see once I have a chance to install things. This also means I need to eventually head back to the dyno, but I think I am going to wait until I do the next stage, which is the return fuel system and transmission swap, so I can up the boost and make 450whp before doing stage three, which will be a build bottom end, axles, more boost, maybe a bigger turbo; we will see.
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11-23-2022, 05:41 PM | #348 |
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I just want to say thank you to @Irace86.2.0 and others for contributing and documenting everything.
That takes up a lot of time…! |
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11-25-2022, 11:41 AM | #349 |
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I bought the DW dual module. I figured why not, since it is Black Friday.
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11-25-2022, 12:31 PM | #350 | |
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nice! A guinea pig for me. Happy thanksgiving
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