love tracking this car; brake calipers and wheel studs issues

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by FRSfan111

So would you recommend BBKs up front? If so what brand? Also if BBK is the way to go should I invest in brake cooling ducts too? I was pondering BBKs up front, brake cooling ducts and possibly just pads/rotors for the rear. Would this be a decent set up? I DD and do hpde/advanced driver classes 1-2 times a month.

http://counterspacegarage.com/produc...t-brz-frs.html

That's what we use on our car. Ducting is ALWAYS good to have. We use the stock brakes in the rear.

I'd suspect a set of pads should easily last you a year with the BBK, if not longer. Most of our regulars that purchased the kit from us are getting 15+ days out of a set of pads.

[448hpsti]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

hold on a second

you anti-sieze the mating surface between the WHEEL and the ROTOR and you're wondering why you're snapping the studs?

anti-sieze goes on the THREADS, no where else

any two surfaces that mate flat together for the purposes of sticking together should be free of any contaminants, most of all anything that prevents friction.

Never broke a stud. Where did you read that i did?


Paging @JRitt

[FRSfan111]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

http://counterspacegarage.com/produc...t-brz-frs.html

That's what we use on our car. Ducting is ALWAYS good to have. We use the stock brakes in the rear.

I'd suspect a set of pads should easily last you a year with the BBK, if not longer. Most of our regulars that purchased the kit from us are getting 15+ days out of a set of pads.

I like those a lot. Going to have to save for a couple months though! Weight reduction + more braking. What more can u ask for?

[bolecailey]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Adequate? yes. Cost effective? Not at all.

That is what I thought. I just don't want to upgrade to the AP setup until I actually have time for more track days.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by FRSfan111

I like those a lot. Going to have to save for a couple months though! Weight reduction + more braking. What more can u ask for?

Let us know when you're ready! I'm pretty sure we stock more pad options for that caliper than anyone else, and certainly have the most experience using it on track, even Essex (if you only count the FR-S/BRZ).

[SpeedLab]

Keep an eye on those ARP studs. I've had pretty bad luck with them stripping/siezing in the past. If you even THINK the lugs aren't going on smoothly, i would replace them with a fresh set. I got about 6-8 months out of a set before they siezed a lug.

Alternatively - use just a wee bit of anti-sieze on them. I know it's not recommended due to torque differences.. but it may help.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by SpeedLab

Keep an eye on those ARP studs. I've had pretty bad luck with them stripping/siezing in the past. If you even THINK the lugs aren't going on smoothly, i would replace them with a fresh set. I got about 6-8 months out of a set before they siezed a lug.

Alternatively - use just a wee bit of anti-sieze on them. I know it's not recommended due to torque differences.. but it may help.

OT, but I love your signature.

Back on topic: anti-seize is your friend.

[Gearhead1]

Originally Posted by 448hpsti

Failing at brakes so far and have yet to go pay Essex my wad.
My brakes aren't ducted, and they suck. So maybe you're onto something there! I just am not sure adding ducting will give me the thermal capacity I need, in the same physical volume of pad and rotor. I have only tried a ds2500 in stock size, are any of you convinced these setup plus track specific pads offer enough stop to not want a unrated brake kit for an Fi car?

I am on r comps with oe studs and steel lugs, no issue, do you guys think I should be worried about catastrophic failure of all five studs since I drive like an idiot on oe studs?

And yes, factory brake fluid in these cars is horse piss

My BRZ is a daily driver that sees occasional track days. Because of the limited confines for brake ducts, I tried "experimental" powered brake ducts from rooducts.com (look for "Universal Fan Ducts"). These little fans move a ton of air and made a HUGE difference. No more boiled brake fluid--even with the stock "horse piss". Before you spend a lot of money or tear up rotors with aggressive pads, try these first, then see what additional upgrades you need.

[smbstyle]

Hey @trackjunkie , did you end up rebuilding your OEM calipers?

I got the rebuild kit and just wondering if you have any advice.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by smbstyle

Hey @trackjunkie , did you end up rebuilding your OEM calipers?

I got the rebuild kit and just wondering if you have any advice.

What happened to yours?

[smbstyle]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

What happened to yours?

For OEM calipers on a track car I like to rebuild them once a year; cheap insurance, considering the entire rebuild kit is only $25 and is a fairly straight and easy job. Also changing to SS lines at the same time, so the fact that they'll be apart anyways I mind as well do it now.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by smbstyle

For OEM calipers on a track car I like to rebuild them once a year; cheap insurance, considering the entire rebuild kit is only $25 and is a fairly straight and easy job. Also changing to SS lines at the same time, so the fact that they'll be apart anyways I mind as well do it now.

You wanna do me (and everyone else) a solid favor and take some pics and do a quick write up? I've never rebuilt a caliper before.

[smbstyle]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

You wanna do me (and everyone else) a solid favor and take some pics and do a quick write up? I've never rebuilt a caliper before.

You spoiled the surprise!

Yes, I was planning on doing a detailed write-up on it, i'll take pics and post it in the DIY section.


EDIT: Here it is
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60896

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by smbstyle

For OEM calipers on a track car I like to rebuild them once a year; cheap insurance, considering the entire rebuild kit is only $25 and is a fairly straight and easy job. Also changing to SS lines at the same time, so the fact that they'll be apart anyways I mind as well do it now.

Whoa. Once a year? I'd be comfortable riding in your car with that level of preventative maintenance!

I don't even do that on my wildly under-braked race car. The only time I've "rebuilt" a caliper is when the refurbed unit I bought came with a bad seal (out of round) or I've had a caliper piston seize (melted the seal to the side of the housing!).

Do you want to know a little racer secret? When rebuilding the caliper, rub just a little bit of dielectric grease on the seal before you slide the piston in the housing (instead of using brake fluid) and it will keep it from seizing on you at the track, especially at tracks that are really hard on brakes.

Oh yeah, don't forget to re-lube the guide pins.

You're welcome.