Suspension refresh

[rbfr.s]

Hi all!

I'm hoping to pick your brains and get some advice on suspension. I recently repaired a blown strut after noticing it leaking. I was hunting down a squeak coming from my rear drivers side that would happen after driving over every minor imperfection in the road (sounded like a box spring). Got the new strut installed, keep in mind I'm lowered on RSR superdown springs, and the squeak still persists. The squeak is now happening when I turn the wheel, but not straight-on. I am very, VERY, new to the technical aspects of working on cars. That being said, the car is very much a street-driven daily with the occasional spirited drive on a backroad (85,000 miles). I've been taking it to shops for the bigger ticket items to get it done right the first time. I figured the B8 was a good little upgrade over OEM without throwing money away on a cheap set of coils; hopefully, this will save me the headache of more blown struts and possibly fixing this new squeak. Will pairing the B8s with the RSR springs fix suspension geometry, or should I be looking at anything else to maybe address this (endlinks, LCAs, swaybars, tophats, bushings, etc)? I'm hoping the squeak works itself out or I become deaf to it. I plan on taking the rear strut tower brace off to look further into it.

[churchx]

Sometimes it's not struts themselves that squeak. For example, for me it was at one point not secured properly braided brake line in rear, that squeaked on most deeper potholes.
What kind of squeak your is? Continuous sound or "skipping" sound of possibly binding topmount bearing?
Also why not B6 instead of B8?

[rbfr.s]

Originally Posted by churchx

Sometimes it's not struts themselves that squeak. For example, for me it was at one point not secured properly braided brake line in rear, that squeaked on most deeper potholes.
What kind of squeak your is? Continuous sound or "skipping" sound of possibly binding topmount bearing?
Also why not B6 instead of B8?

This video is exactly what my squeak evolved into after repairing my strut:

I'm thinking it may be my endlinks that could be worn down. Previous owner was the one to tamper with the suspension so now I'm trying to follow the breadcrumbs of what they've done.

As for the B8 vs B6, I was leaning towards the B8 because the strut is shorter to accommodate for lowering springs. To quote Bilstein themselves, "The B8 is designed to be used exclusively with lowering springs or vehicles that are fitted with a lowered suspension from the manufacturer."

[churchx]

AFAIK only change B8 has over B6, IIRC is shortened droop travel. So if rest is same, see no reason for having one of features/functionality reduced.
Don't mind much advertisement slogans. Choose according what they really are (at least for specific car model).

Should I get B6 or B8?
Bilstein B8 are supposed to be paired with lowering springs...but we still recommend B6 instead. The difference between B6 and B8 is NOT in the valving. That's identical. The B8s have slightly less droop, or extension travel. The idea is that shorter lowering springs don't need the droop travel or wouldn't be fully secure with longer travel. In reality, all lowering springs for this car are designed around the OEM dampers dimensions so this simply isn't needed and actually droop travel is good. So, get the B6s. The B8s are still very good if you have them.

[rbfr.s]

Ordered the whiteline sway bar kit with endlinks and subframe bushings. Hopefully this will fix my box spring squeak!

[rbfr.s]

I'm not sure if this is an issue or if it's normal. I had the whiteline kit installed along with the positive traction subframe insert kit. The front is set to stiff and when going over bumps, the front passengers side doesn't feel like it's absorbing anything - feels more like a crash. If something is wrong, is it the endlink or should I be looking at the strut?