DIY - Differential and Ring & Pinion Swap

[Rue]

He used the Weir Performance final drive. Driven the car and there is no clunking from the final drive. There shouldn't be any noise from the final drive that wasn't there before with the factory. I'd pull the pumpkin out and check how many inch pounds it takes to spin the assembly. It should read between 14.2 - 23.8 in./lbs.

[Dustin]

Only noise I get is from my 2 way.

[FMJ]

back to basics question, is our stock Torsen LSD 1.5 way? Sorry for dum question like this

[Dustin]

1 way, 1.5 way & 2 way refers to clutch, cone, and plate type LSD's. It refers to the limiting torque in forward or reverse directions. 2 way the limiting torque is the same both forward and reverse, 1.5 way the limiting torque is different but neither equal 0. In a one way it will provide limiting torque in one way but not the other.

[Dustin]

Updated post #3 with final thoughts after power upgrades.

[kodyo]

Thanks for the write up! This and another post has convinced me to give this a shot as I'm mechanically inclined and am also of the mindset of working on my car rather than paying someone to work on it for me.

Anyways, I just picked up an LSD from a Lexus IS 300 per the thread below and am slowly getting the tools together to accomplish this.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49288

[kodyo]

Is there an easy way to remove the bearings from the differential? Seen a few people cut them to get access to the grooved inner race and pull from there, but I'd prefer to keep them in tact if there is a way.

[kodyo]

I'll answer my own question here. Note that you have to destroy the bearing to do this, but it is easy and safe.

1) Remove the cage. I was able to pry mine apart and slowly remove the rollers.
2) Get a 2/3 prong puller from autozone/Oreileys (free to rent). I'm using a 2 ton puller.
3) Use 2 of the three prongs and use the side that is slimmest (the puller was flippable). These two prongs will fit in the grooves cut into the differential and hook under the inner bearing race.
4) I used a 5/8" bolt and two washers that fit the ID of the race as a reaction point for the puller.
5) Use a reaction arm bolted to one part of the diff and tighten the puller to remove the bearing race.

Should be easy to see from my picture how I got it to work.

[Dustin]

Sorry didn't see you post until just now. If you or anyone else has any questions, just make sure you either quote a post I made or just type @Dustin and I'll see it. Otherwise it's just random luck that I happen across it.

[kodyo]

If you click "User CP" at the top, you can see threads you have posted in when they have new replies. Thread has been loads of help so far as well as the service manual.

[Dustin]

Yeah I never do that. You'll have better luck doing as I suggested. Glad you got it figured out though.

[kodyo]

@Dustin

For the pinion depth shim, I notice there are multiple sizes in the catalog I'm looking at. Is it best to just reuse the one that was on the diff? Or can I just buy one? I'd prefer to not have to remove the old bearing just for a $3 washer.

Also, if one is using the crush sleeve instead of the solid spacer, how does that change the use of the shims that go on top of the solid spacer? I assume the shims are there to space everything correctly vs using a crush sleeve.

[Dustin]

Originally Posted by kodyo

@Dustin

For the pinion depth shim, I notice there are multiple sizes in the catalog I'm looking at. Is it best to just reuse the one that was on the diff? Or can I just buy one? I'd prefer to not have to remove the old bearing just for a $3 washer.

Also, if one is using the crush sleeve instead of the solid spacer, how does that change the use of the shims that go on top of the solid spacer? I assume the shims are there to space everything correctly vs using a crush sleeve.

I reused the factory shim to set the pinion depth but yours may differ. As far as the crush sleeve is concerned, setup should be the same. It's just not reusable if you ever change it out again like the solid pinion spacer is.

[kodyo]

Ah, ok, thanks. I'll probably get a friend to make me a solid spacer to stack shims on top of and forgo the crush sleeve.