Oil starvation preventative mods worth it?

[Elliotw]

Hey looking to gain some wisdom of the crowd on oil starvation issues with the FA20.
I have a few questions:

1. Doing lots of track days(hpde not racing) is it worth it to buy oil starvation preventive mods? Like baffle, oil pick, or sump change, accusump etc.

2. Of these different options what's the most effective way address the problem from a dollars vs risk point of view?

3. does going from N/A -> FI change the equation above?


Maybe I should post this in the tracking section...

[CSG Mike]

I haven't had any issues on a stock engine (boosted).

[ls1ac]

I too have had no problems with a stock based engine with a supercharger on track. I kind of figure that all engines are like light bulbs one time they are not going to work. If your other track car is blue with red wheels then you should already have a feeling for tracking the car. You have telemetry or a camera inside recording the gauges?
If you are on a track there are many risks you are taking. If having your car die will ruin your life, do not take it to the track. The more aggressive you get the greater the chance you will need a trailer. No engine is Bullitt proof on the track.

[churchx]

Nice term, "Bullitt proof"

[86MLR]

Originally Posted by churchx

Nice term, "Bullitt proof"

Sure is

[Decep]

Best mod is check your oil often. I have a feeling people let their oil get low and go bombing around back roads at high revs and hard cornering and starve their engine of oil. Not unheard of to add half a quart or more after 5k

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I haven't had any issues on a stock engine (boosted).

Mike, where are you guys running your oil pressure sending unit? I have been dealing with oil pressure fluctuation above 5800 RPM. I am trying to rule out the cause and I think it could be the sending unit protruding to far into the oil galley and causing odd readings.

Best mod is check your oil often. I have a feeling people let their oil get low and go bombing around back roads at high revs and hard cornering and starve their engine of oil. Not unheard of to add half a quart or more after 5k

Is this really a problem for people? I never notice any oil consumption on my car. Tracked, over 75K miles. I am running 300V my last oil change was in April. At 5500ish miles on this oil change and it is still right at the full mark.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Mike, where are you guys running your oil pressure sending unit? I have been dealing with oil pressure fluctuation above 5800 RPM. I am trying to rule out the cause and I think it could be the sending unit protruding to far into the oil galley and causing odd readings.




Is this really a problem for people? I never notice any oil consumption on my car. Tracked, over 75K miles. I am running 300V my last oil change was in April. At 5500ish miles on this oil change and it is still right at the full mark.

I don't even monitor pressure. I have a gauge. Never installed it. Why?

Because if I have a pressure related issue, a gauge isn't going to save me; the damage is already done.

130+ events on this engine (original one the car came with) and counting.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I don't even monitor pressure. I have a gauge. Never installed it. Why?

Because if I have a pressure related issue, a gauge isn't going to save me; the damage is already done.

130+ events on this engine (original one the car came with) and counting.

Fair point.

Main reason I started running a gauge was to monitor oil pressure drop with temperature.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I don't even monitor pressure. I have a gauge. Never installed it. Why?

Because if I have a pressure related issue, a gauge isn't going to save me; the damage is already done.

130+ events on this engine (original one the car came with) and counting.

Just curious, what is the production date on your car?

[ermax]

My 2013 (11/2012 build date) spun the #3 rod bearing at 86K miles doing a pull to redline in 4th on the interstate. Oil level was perfectly fine. #3 and #4 share the same main fead so those are the two bearings that typically go. A good challenge would be to find a post/thread where someone spun anything but #3 or 4.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ermax

Just curious, what is the production date on your car?

It's a 2017, turboed, holding several championships and a bunch of class/lap records, all on the same original engine the car came with.

Preventative maintenance and modification appropriate for the type of driving being done is key, IMO.

My oil temp rarely exceeds 225F, and has never been over 230F, even though my turbo is oil cooled.

Do you have an oil cooler on your car? What do you do with it?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It's a 2017, turboed, holding several championships and a bunch of class/lap records, all on the same original engine the car came with.

Preventative maintenance and modification appropriate for the type of driving being done is key, IMO.

My oil temp rarely exceeds 225F, and has never been over 230F, even though my turbo is oil cooled.

Do you have an oil cooler on your car? What do you do with it?

Would you mind sharing your setup? I am running a setrab 619 core. It is mounted on the front lower tray. I think it is masked a bit by the bumper cover and I may build a duct into it. I am regularly still seeing upwards of 270F on a hot day. 250F on a mild day.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Would you mind sharing your setup? I am running a setrab 619 core. It is mounted on the front lower tray. I think it is masked a bit by the bumper cover and I may build a duct into it. I am regularly still seeing upwards of 270F on a hot day. 250F on a mild day.

I run a GReddy oil cooler and Trackspec hood vents. Versus a well-optimized 619 setup, I'd have approximately 3x the cooling. Versus a bare oil cooler in front bumper opening airflow, I'd guesstimate 4-6x the cooling.

My oil temp has NEVER exceeded 230F, even in 110F+ ambient weather.