Tein SRC (Super Racing Circuit) Coilover Review

[Hanakuso]

Originally Posted by CounterSpace Garage

Questions are welcomed! The more specific your question is, the more specific our answer can be.

We've put on over 6k miles with these coilovers on now, including some canyon miles

So what do you suggest when it comes to these coilovers and someone that is still learning the basics on the track. I've read some older reviews from Maxrev and other S2K owners of the SRC and basically it seems like you have to be quicker to correct driver errors and less "feedback" since you don't roll much.

Basically right now I know the stock suspension is good enough for me but I rather not upgrade over and over. Like going from stock to street to street/track to track coilovers. Same thing with tires, I'm still running the stocks since I've been told and read going straight to extreme tires might mask errors. Maybe i'm not looking at it right.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Hanakuso

So what do you suggest when it comes to these coilovers and someone that is still learning the basics on the track. I've read some older reviews from Maxrev and other S2K owners of the SRC and basically it seems like you have to be quicker to correct driver errors and less "feedback" since you don't roll much.

Basically right now I know the stock suspension is good enough for me but I rather not upgrade over and over. Like going from stock to street to street/track to track coilovers. Same thing with tires, I'm still running the stocks since I've been told and read going straight to extreme tires might mask errors. Maybe i'm not looking at it right.

When you're running a setting that is pushing your tires to the ragged edge in terms of load, it'll make the car edgier. However, with a slightly more conservative setting, the coilovers will actually make the car easier to drive.

Remember, the S2k is an extremely twitchy platform; it is unstable by design. This inherant instability is what allows the s2k to turn so quickly. It's also what makes the s2k turn quickly, even when you don't want it to.

You also have to realize that the s2k application of the SRC was designed specifically with a GT wing in mind. The relatively staggered spring rates of the stock s2k is changed to a square 16k/16k. It destabilizes the car by design to allow for faster rotation in low speed corners, and utilizes a wing to stabilize the car at high speeds.

The BRZ/FR-S's SRC application is a bit different. The recommend springs retain the relative factory stagger (of the FR-S, not the BRZ), and does NOT destabilize the car. Rather, what it does is build upon the strengths of the platform. The platform is amazingly stable and aerodynamically sound.

The higher spring rates allow for faster weight transfer and transition while reducing body roll (remember, the actual amount of weight transfer doesn't change, the roll is reduced because the springs are stiffer; the reduced roll allows you to potentially dial in LESS static camber). Yes, the car may become less forgiving in that it'll respond to driver input exponentially faster. It's taking away the "masking" effect of the soft stock suspension that takes the edge off of hard, rough inputs that destabilize the car. Because the car is now responding more precisely to your inputs, it's also easier to push the tires beyond their limits. In essence, it gives you more precise control of your car.

The relative balance of the spring rates (in relation to suspension geometry and stock-ish weigh distribution) allows for tuning in under and oversteer based on driver preference. Fine tuning the damping allows for you to use the maximum amount of grip available from all four tires, and allow you to maximize contact between the tires and the ground. For example, our setup is fastest with a damper setting of 5/6 compression/rebound, front and rear. With my driving style, I would dial in more oversteer by decreasing damping in the rear to 7/7, while leaving the front alone. Intuitively, it would see that the fronts would overload faster due to the damping, and the car would understeer. However, I generally tend to "throw" the car around, utilizing lateral weight (load) transfer. Because the rear is now softer, the lateral transfer is exaggerated, and causes the rear to break loose first, whereas someone not throwing the weight around as much may get understeer.

Once you get beyond the basics, a lot of suspension tuning is based on personal preference. We are more than happy to help our clients dial their cars in so that it handles exactly how they want, and are available for trackside support.

Yes, going to ultra sticky tires can mask driving errors, but this is generally the case ONLY because the grip is so extreme that you're not actually pushing them past the limits of adhesion.

We agree, rather than modifying the car over and over, we'd rather get it done right the FIRST time, and not have to do it again. That's why we've kept our car extremely simple, and right to the point. (I take that back, we'll do alignments over and over...)


We are always available to answer general questions about setup. Please don't hesitate to ask; we want to help educate the community and share our knowledge.

[Hanakuso]

Thanks Mike! Another question is does it have the feature to adjust preload like other Tein SRC?

I'm pretty set on the SRC. Possibly the Ohlins R&T or Bilstein PSS series but I feel the SRC are much more track oriented. I'm a fan of Euro companies when it comes to suspension but it seems the SRC are great for the money.

I have always considered the KW V3 but from my understanding is that they will not do custom valving. To me that could be a big option down the road if I felt I needed that "upgrad"

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Hanakuso

Thanks Mike! Another question is does it have the feature to adjust preload like other Tein SRC?

I'm pretty set on the SRC. Possibly the Ohlins R&T or Bilstein PSS series but I feel the SRC are much more track oriented. I'm a fan of Euro companies when it comes to suspension but it seems the SRC are great for the money.

I have always considered the KW V3 but from my understanding is that they will not do custom valving. To me that could be a big option down the road if I felt I needed that "upgrad"

We do offer revalving services through Tein USA.

And yes, you can adjust preload

[RYU]

Originally Posted by Hanakuso

I have always considered the KW V3 but from my understanding is that they will not do custom valving. To me that could be a big option down the road if I felt I needed that "upgrad"

Hanakuso - it's in my limited understanding that most suspension companies have the ability to make a good damper. It's the R&D and testing time done on the platform that really sets them apart. I'm not 100% sure if KW is really focusing on the BRZ/FRS as much as they do for their other platforms. I'm going to guess they aren't focusing on the 86 much given their quick to market release of the V3s but riding on the success from their other platform (BMW?)... that's just my gutt feeling, no proof here and would love to be proven wrong.

Mike - I think tire pressures and alignment also can be low hanging fruit. I've considered buying a pyrometer but the last few years i've been so caught up on setup I have done little to focus on me, the driver. My lap times don't nearly reflect what my car(s) can do. Sometimes it's just TMI...

[Hanakuso]

Originally Posted by RYU

Hanakuso - it's in my limited understanding that most suspension companies have the ability to make a good damper. It's the R&D and testing time done on the platform that really sets them apart. I'm not 100% sure if KW is really focusing on the BRZ/FRS as much as they do for their other platforms. I'm going to guess they aren't focusing on the 86 much given their quick to market release of the V3s but riding on the success from their other platform (BMW?)... that's just my gutt feeling, no proof here and would love to be proven wrong.

Mike - I think tire pressures and alignment also can be low hanging fruit. I've considered buying a pyrometer but the last few years i've been so caught up on setup I have done little to focus on me, the driver. My lap times don't nearly reflect what my car(s) can do. Sometimes it's just TMI...

It's also my limited understanding but suspension companies that cater to the more focused or hardcore guys should let some custom tweaking available, which KW does not allow. From what I know, suspension settings will change when looking at different factors such as tires, weight, power, type of LSD, driving style, etc.

That's why I'm liking these Tein SRC since the manufacturer gives those options. Not saying I will but it's nice to know I won't have to keep buying new sets of coilovers in the future if I "outgrow" them.

[FreshFRS]

What is the length of spring required? i think you guys have made up my mind on which dampers i'm going to get. (-1.4" front, -1.2" rear prefer a little rake) but i think i'm going to run Swift springs 10k/12k. Would an offset caster front bushing (ie perrin PSRS) for a little bit of geometry correction be a good thing? i haven't set up this car yet (still waiting on my order) but have experience with an S2K (4 years worth auto-x and track).

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by FreshFRS

What is the length of spring required? i think you guys have made up my mind on which dampers i'm going to get. (-1.4" front, -1.2" rear prefer a little rake) but i think i'm going to run Swift springs 10k/12k. Would an offset caster front bushing (ie perrin PSRS) for a little bit of geometry correction be a good thing? i haven't set up this car yet (still waiting on my order) but have experience with an S2K (4 years worth auto-x and track).

70mm ID, 140mm length fronts
65mm ID, 150mm length rears

We haven't played with geometry correction yet. @robispec would be the best person to contact for that, IMO.

Do you post in R&C on s2ki? Do you have SRCs on your s2k?

[FreshFRS]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

70mm ID, 140mm length fronts
65mm ID, 150mm length rears

We haven't played with geometry correction yet. @robispec would be the best person to contact for that, IMO.

Do you post in R&C on s2ki? Do you have SRCs on your s2k?

i dont post there anymore at all. i had KW V3 (came with the car) before stepping up to PSi's Ohlins TTX36IL/TTX36 setup. that was awesome i must say.

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by FreshFRS

What is the length of spring required? i think you guys have made up my mind on which dampers i'm going to get. (-1.4" front, -1.2" rear prefer a little rake) but i think i'm going to run Swift springs 10k/12k. Would an offset caster front bushing (ie perrin PSRS) for a little bit of geometry correction be a good thing? i haven't set up this car yet (still waiting on my order) but have experience with an S2K (4 years worth auto-x and track).

Swift springs are amazing springs (a setup I had thought about on the S2k) and will provide a slightly different suspension modulation from Tein race springs. The difference will be how the Tein dampers/valving will respond to compression and rebound, therefore, there may be some minor (or possibly negligible) setting differences compared to the settings that work on our BRZ. The Tein R&D/Product Engineer stated that Tein, Hyperco, and Swift springs all work slightly different and will provide different experiences between different car setups. Looking forward to the feedback on that setup and what your compression/rebound settings are.

[FreshFRS]

you will know as soon as i have them set up!

[CounterSpace Garage]

Hello ya'll! We just posted up a Group Buy for the TEIN SRCs! The coilovers will come with 10k front / 12k rear springs. Custom rates are available upon request.

Other spring options:
8k front / 10k rear for a softer setup
12k front / 14k rear for R-comp/slick use

TEIN SRC GROUP BUY

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

We believe the sways are a fine tuning tool. First, you pick the springs and dampers to achieve the rough balance you want. Then you play with the damper settings to refine that balance. Change springs and/or dampers if the settings are way off. Once you've achieved the best you can do with just springs and dampers, you use alignment, tire pressure, and sways to fine tune that balance.

We're still on stock sways, and feel no need to change them at this time.

The bumpiness and rough patches you mention are rarely worse than some of the conditions we run into at the track (SoWS, I'm looking, glaring even, at you), but you don't want to run on the ragged edge when there's so much risk involved. That's why I recommend a softer 7/7 setting, rather than 5/6. 7/7 is the setting I was using when I was... taking the CSG BRZ for spirited drives.

Completely agree on the sway bars. On this car they will be the last thing I'd replace. A set of great dampers with higher spring rates keeps the suspension more independent and will do the job without the sway bar bandaid IMO.

Sway bars are ideal if you plan to run lower rates with crappy (no offense intended) dampers.

Mike: You should come out to Sebring to enjoy some real bad track surfaces

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by SubieNate

I can vouch for this setup. I was astonished at how smooth it rode after I was told what the spring rates were.

Nathan

Yeah, my first time in a car with excellent dampers was quite eye opening. I knew the rates going in (12k/16k) and was amazed at how well those dampers handled it. The dampers in question were high end Showas..