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BRZ First-Gen (2012+) -- General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe


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Old 06-02-2020, 12:45 PM   #57
Yitzb
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Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0 View Post
Remove the door cards and check for power going to the door lock controls using a multimeter. Work your way back to the battery.

Get a Techstream to check the chassis codes.

All the connectors seem to be fine. I check the with a multimeter
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Old 06-02-2020, 02:29 PM   #58
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All the connectors seem to be fine. I check the with a multimeter
So you said earlier that all the other components are working like you can lock and unlock the door with a key, and you can lock and unlock the door with the manual lock; ie, all the mechanical locks are working, correct?

When you say all the connectors seem to be fine, are you talking about the power going to the door switches and to the actuator or just the door switches? My guess is that you just checked the door switches/buttons. You might be receiving power to the power door locks, but are you receiving power to the actual door lock actuator?

There should be a harness going from your door buttons to the actuator. When you push a button to lock or unlock the door from the door card or on your fob, your multimeter should detect voltage. If you have voltage going to the actuator from the door lock, which I suspect you do then your door lock buttons and control module for the fob works, and it is your actuator.

If you look at the picture or video below there seems to be just two contact points on the connector harness for the actuator. You could bench test the connection points to a battery. Attach wires to a battery and tap the two terminals. Switch to reverse polarity. If nothing happens then the actuator is dead. Replace with a new or used unit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-2019-S...7CMake%3AScion







https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/part...1032ca080.html



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Old 06-02-2020, 05:54 PM   #59
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Would it not be unusual for both doors to have a mechanical failure at the same time?
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Old 06-02-2020, 08:00 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0 View Post
So you said earlier that all the other components are working like you can lock and unlock the door with a key, and you can lock and unlock the door with the manual lock; ie, all the mechanical locks are working, correct?

When you say all the connectors seem to be fine, are you talking about the power going to the door switches and to the actuator or just the door switches? My guess is that you just checked the door switches/buttons. You might be receiving power to the power door locks, but are you receiving power to the actual door lock actuator?

There should be a harness going from your door buttons to the actuator. When you push a button to lock or unlock the door from the door card or on your fob, your multimeter should detect voltage. If you have voltage going to the actuator from the door lock, which I suspect you do then your door lock buttons and control module for the fob works, and it is your actuator.

If you look at the picture or video below there seems to be just two contact points on the connector harness for the actuator. You could bench test the connection points to a battery. Attach wires to a battery and tap the two terminals. Switch to reverse polarity. If nothing happens then the actuator is dead. Replace with a new or used unit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-2019-S...7CMake%3AScion







https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/part...1032ca080.html




I only checked the connectors I’ll try that out


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Old 06-02-2020, 08:25 PM   #61
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Would it not be unusual for both doors to have a mechanical failure at the same time?
it would be a little unusual considering the age of the compnents. but considering that the majority of systems tend to activate both doors most times, it's still feasible.
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Old 06-02-2020, 09:28 PM   #62
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Would it not be unusual for both doors to have a mechanical failure at the same time?
I think it is unusual. If it turns out to be the problem then my theory is that the doors slightly compressed during the collision. The door latch hook/bar jammed into the actuators, transferring forces that caused them to fail. There is enough slop in the doors that they sell a TRD door stabilizer kit, so maybe it is possible. I don't know.
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Old 06-02-2020, 10:44 PM   #63
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I think it is unusual. If it turns out to be the problem then my theory is that the doors slightly compressed during the collision. The door latch hook/bar jammed into the actuators, transferring forces that caused them to fail. There is enough slop in the doors that they sell a TRD door stabilizer kit, so maybe it is possible. I don't know.

It’s a 2018 so doesn’t make sense that the actuator went out unless like u said it was damaged in the accident. But there was no visible damage to the doors
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Old 06-02-2020, 11:24 PM   #64
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It’s a 2018 so doesn’t make sense that the actuator went out unless like u said it was damaged in the accident. But there was no visible damage to the doors
I have no idea if the actuators got damaged from the door flexing into the door jam hook. They could have taken the force transfer. Maybe they shorted out somehow. You won’t know until you bench test them, but obviously check for power going into the actuators first.
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Old 06-02-2020, 11:25 PM   #65
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I have no idea if the actuators got damaged from the door flexing into the door jam hook. They could have taken the force transfer. Maybe they shorted out somehow. You won’t know until you bench test them, but obviously check for power going into the actuators first.

I’m gonna assume there is no power Bc I changed the fuse 3 times and it doesn’t appear to be working. I even checked the fuses and they seem fine. So I’m lost. lol
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Old 06-02-2020, 11:45 PM   #66
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I’m gonna assume there is no power Bc I changed the fuse 3 times and it doesn’t appear to be working. I even checked the fuses and they seem fine. So I’m lost. lol
You have power going to the buttons you said. You need to check that there is power going to the actuator. If you push the fob or door buttons to open the doors then your multimeter should get a 12v signal then reverse polarity in the opposite to close the doors. If you get power then the actuator has to be bad. I wouldn’t assume unless you want to buy a part and return it if it doesn’t work.
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Old 07-27-2022, 10:14 AM   #67
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All the issues come from the actuator, aren't they?
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Old 07-29-2022, 10:55 PM   #68
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Hey... Is there another key floating around inside somewhere?
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Old 08-11-2022, 04:01 AM   #69
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I had to replace one of my door actuators recently. Not too hard.

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Old 08-15-2022, 04:53 PM   #70
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Yeah, looking at its other post, i reported
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