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Old 01-27-2016, 12:39 PM   #1
ivtaku7
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Question Necessary Mods to Maintain OEM Geometry with Coilovers

I've been doing a lot of reading, research, and shopping around, but have no definitive answer on what supporting mods would be necessary with coilovers to maintain OEM suspension geometry or close. I don't want to cut corners when I install coils, but I don't want to break the bank either.

For my application the car is daily driven 90% of the time and sees track/spirited driving the other 10% of the time. The daily driving isn't even really daily, but when I do drive it's typically on the highway.

Right now the car is stock and my intended progression is:
  • Better Summer Tires (Spring 2016)
  • Coilovers + Supporting Mods (Spring 2016)
  • Wider Wheels/Tires (Spring 2017)
  • Forced Induction (Spring 2018 if I still own the car)
With this in mind what are the suspension mods I should be considering with the coilover install with STOCK power, wheels, and tires? What should I consider down the road as far as logical increments go? (added power + wider wheels/tires)
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Old 01-27-2016, 01:05 PM   #2
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Depending on the coilovers (whether it includes a front camber plate) you may want to look into getting camber bolts for a bit of adjustment. Also, rear lower control arms, depending how much you lower the car. In my experience, I was able to get the desired alignment by using front camber bolts, and just letting the rear camber naturally follow. I believe I'm somewhere around -2.5* on a 1" drop with 17x9 +35 wheels and 245/40 tires. Absolutely zero rubbing. Kind of wish I went 255, but I don't think it would clear the front strut. Maybe when I get coilovers some day, but I've found just the Hotchkis springs to handle exceptionally well for my intended purpose.
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Old 01-27-2016, 01:07 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by ivtaku7 View Post
I've been doing a lot of reading, research, and shopping around, but have no definitive answer on what supporting mods would be necessary with coilovers to maintain OEM suspension geometry or close. I don't want to cut corners when I install coils, but I don't want to break the bank either.

For my application the car is daily driven 90% of the time and sees track/spirited driving the other 10% of the time. The daily driving isn't even really daily, but when I do drive it's typically on the highway.

Right now the car is stock and my intended progression is:
  • Better Summer Tires (Spring 2016)
  • Coilovers + Supporting Mods (Spring 2016)
  • Wider Wheels/Tires (Spring 2017)
  • Forced Induction (Spring 2018 if I still own the car)
With this in mind what are the suspension mods I should be considering with the coilover install with STOCK power, wheels, and tires? What should I consider down the road as far as logical increments go? (added power + wider wheels/tires)
If you are going to go any lower then 1 inch get some roll center correction parts as well as any parts you need to get your alignment set right. example would be LCA's
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Old 01-27-2016, 01:52 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Jesse36m3 View Post
Depending on the coilovers (whether it includes a front camber plate) you may want to look into getting camber bolts for a bit of adjustment. Also, rear lower control arms, depending how much you lower the car. In my experience, I was able to get the desired alignment by using front camber bolts, and just letting the rear camber naturally follow. I believe I'm somewhere around -2.5* on a 1" drop with 17x9 +35 wheels and 245/40 tires. Absolutely zero rubbing. Kind of wish I went 255, but I don't think it would clear the front strut. Maybe when I get coilovers some day, but I've found just the Hotchkis springs to handle exceptionally well for my intended purpose.
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If you are going to go any lower then 1 inch get some roll center correction parts as well as any parts you need to get your alignment set right. example would be LCA's
I probably won't be going lower than an inch living in the Northeast. So would LCA's even be necessary other than to have something a bit beefier than the factory stuff? What about adjustable toe arms, tie rods, and end links?

I'm just trying to cover all the bases after reading the thread about "How to screw up your cars handling and ride" hahah
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Old 01-27-2016, 01:55 PM   #5
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I probably won't be going lower than an inch living in the Northeast. So would LCA's even be necessary other than to have something a bit beefier than the factory stuff? What about adjustable toe arms, tie rods, and end links?

I'm just trying to cover all the bases after reading the thread about "How to screw up your cars handling and ride" hahah
I would get LCA's just so you can adjust camber to what you need. Thats all your really should need
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:12 PM   #6
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I would get LCA's just so you can adjust camber to what you need. Thats all your really should need
Make's sense. In what situation would you need those other parts? (i.e. tie rods, toe arms, end links, etc.)
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:14 PM   #7
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Make's sense. In what situation would you need those other parts? (i.e. tie rods, toe arms, end links, etc.)
Full track car, or if you go real low and need more adjustment for your alignment. Whiteline makes a roll center correction kit that I would also look at getting as well as a caster/dive correction kit if you want to go all out for a DD but you really don't need those if your only going down 1 inch
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:16 PM   #8
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Make's sense. In what situation would you need those other parts? (i.e. tie rods, toe arms, end links, etc.)
When you lower by more than an inch, bump steer/roll center correction kits become a good idea.
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:17 PM   #9
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Lowering less than an inch shouldn't affect the need for a roll center kit and put you at or less than -2 degrees of camber in the rear, toe should be minimally affected. The rear LCA's stock I would trust more than most <$400 LCA's on the market, there's no reason to change it if you aren't changing the alignment (and be careful what you choose, some rulesets don't allow things like spherical joints).

The front camber will be minimally affected by lowering unless the coils come with camber plates or slotted and you add negative camber odds are you can easily keep your front camber less than -1 degree.

imo sounds like you have no need for any other suspension mods at this time. However I think more aggressive alignment has been my favorite change to the car so far above tires and budget coilovers. I haven't got my LCA's in yet but camber plates have been my favorite change so far.
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:37 PM   #10
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Awesome, thanks for the info! One other question though, coils that don't come with a camber plate like RCE Tarmac 0s or KW V3s, they're slotted and that would be enough camber adjustment for not totally slamming the car? From my understanding it's better to make your camber adjustments at the hub as opposed to using a camber plate.
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:42 PM   #11
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Not sure if you Autocross or not, but just wanted to give a heads up. If you do install the Whiteline roll center kit, it will bump you into Street Modified class. I run in STX class and that's the main reason I haven't installed one yet.
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:54 PM   #12
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Not sure if you Autocross or not, but just wanted to give a heads up. If you do install the Whiteline roll center kit, it will bump you into Street Modified class. I run in STX class and that's the main reason I haven't installed one yet.
I was considering giving it a shot this year so that's good to know. Do LCA's bump you out of STX as well?
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Old 01-27-2016, 03:26 PM   #13
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I was considering giving it a shot this year so that's good to know. Do LCA's bump you out of STX as well?
I think it depends on the type of bushing they use. I know the current Whiteline LCA's are legal for STX. That's what I'm using now.
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Old 01-27-2016, 04:03 PM   #14
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Awesome, thanks for the info! One other question though, coils that don't come with a camber plate like RCE Tarmac 0s or KW V3s, they're slotted and that would be enough camber adjustment for not totally slamming the car? From my understanding it's better to make your camber adjustments at the hub as opposed to using a camber plate.
You'll have enough camber adjustment with the adjustable lower mount.

I generally recommend rear LCAs since I'm a little picky about alignment.

- Andrew
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