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Old 09-28-2021, 01:08 AM   #113
Irace86.2.0
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Here are some pics of my attempt at creating something resembling the IC pipes. Seems like the TB sits high enough and the engine far enough back to clear the airbox and allow for routing of the IC pipe to the TB, but I won’t know for sure until I get the kit.
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Old 09-28-2021, 11:46 AM   #114
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When I go turbo with my k24, I think I plan on just calling up JDL and having them ship me their cold side parts only.

Garrett Intercooler Core and both sides of the IC piping; then all I'd need is to one extra piping to get to the cold side of the turbo.

The intercooler that you now makes it seem like it's more difficult. but if you already have what you have and you make it work then that's dope
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Old 09-28-2021, 10:34 PM   #115
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When I go turbo with my k24, I think I plan on just calling up JDL and having them ship me their cold side parts only.

Garrett Intercooler Core and both sides of the IC piping; then all I'd need is to one extra piping to get to the cold side of the turbo.

The intercooler that you now makes it seem like it's more difficult. but if you already have what you have and you make it work then that's dope
There are cheap kits like this too:

https://www.amazon.com/Upgrade-Inter.../dp/B07Z9SFXDC

Yeah, that was a possibility that I had considered, but I wanted to try to retain the stock airbox, and I also wanted a wide intercooler that filled the front up a little more, so the FMIC wasn’t so obvious, and I wanted it wide enough that the intercooler tanks didn’t block the radiator. As you can see from this picture, the end tanks and core on all coolers line up pretty well.



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Old 09-28-2021, 11:29 PM   #116
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I'm amazed you can buy soda in California with all the CO2 in it or is that a low CO2 soda?
How much is the carbon credit for a can of soda?
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Old 09-29-2021, 01:08 AM   #117
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I'm amazed you can buy soda in California with all the CO2 in it or is that a low CO2 soda?
How much is the carbon credit for a can of soda?
Carbonated drinks don’t have a special carbon tax—just sales tax and CRV. Sugary drinks like soda have special taxes in some cities to deter consumption. I believe a carbon tax on sodas does exist in many cities in the US or has been tried.

The carbon in soda and other carbonated drinks like these seltzer waters are typically captured by energy producers for bottlers, which would have been released in the atmosphere anyways. A can of carbonated water contains about 2-3g of carbon. A gallon of gas contains 8,887g. The average person uses more than a gallon of gas a day to drive. Average fuel economy is 25 mpg or around 350g CO2 per mile with 40 miles driven per day, so 14,000g or 14kg of CO2 per day. The single day carbon production from a typical car is equivalent to a person’s annual consumption of soda if a person had twelve sodas a day, so yeah, probably not an issue.

If California was going to create carbon taxes on food and beverages then meat and not soda would be on the top of the list.
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Old 09-29-2021, 06:54 AM   #118
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Carbonated drinks don’t have a special carbon tax—just sales tax and CRV. Sugary drinks like soda have special taxes in some cities to deter consumption. I believe a carbon tax on sodas does exist in many cities in the US or has been tried.

The carbon in soda and other carbonated drinks like these seltzer waters are typically captured by energy producers for bottlers, which would have been released in the atmosphere anyways. A can of carbonated water contains about 2-3g of carbon. A gallon of gas contains 8,887g. The average person uses more than a gallon of gas a day to drive. Average fuel economy is 25 mpg or around 350g CO2 per mile with 40 miles driven per day, so 14,000g or 14kg of CO2 per day. The single day carbon production from a typical car is equivalent to a person’s annual consumption of soda if a person had twelve sodas a day, so yeah, probably not an issue.

If California was going to create carbon taxes on food and beverages then meat and not soda would be on the top of the list.

Every little bit helps.
Nice build!

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Old 09-29-2021, 11:32 PM   #119
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What do you think of the pulsar turbo? As in quality?

This build is amazing! Hopefully after my engine and turbo kit gives out/sell my stuff and work towards the swap
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Old 09-30-2021, 12:52 PM   #120
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What do you think of the pulsar turbo? As in quality?

This build is amazing! Hopefully after my engine and turbo kit gives out/sell my stuff and work towards the swap
Quality looks solid. Their turbos have solid reviews too. They do balancing/testing on the blades. The machining looks good. I don’t have a Garret G25-660 next to me to tell, but there is likely little difference besides the fact the Garrett turbo has a stainless steel turbine housing.
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Old 10-10-2021, 12:46 AM   #121
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I got the clamps and pipes and reducers. I bought a aluminum 3” to 2.5” reducer, but Vibrant sells a 3” to 2.5” reducer for a single side of their HD clamp. It was pretty cheap relative to the rest. It is backordered, but I should get in time. It isn’t needed too, but it should make for a more elegant setup.

The pipes on Aliexpress are solid and shipped from a warehouse in the midwest. The Epman clamps look like to be of good quality. The o-rings are thick and look to be of good quality too, so I’m sure these clamps will work well. I won’t be welding until the kit arrives, and I get the motor in, but when I do, I’ll make a list of the minimum pipes needed. They weren’t expensive, but it’ll be nice to not have to buy extras.

I got a 3” flex pipe and 3” to 2.5” transition for the exhaust/downpipe. I’ll need more 3” piping once I know how everything lines up. I’ll be doing pie cuts if necessary or I’ll find something that has some curves to it, so I don’t need to do so many welds.

I’ll purchase the AN fittings next week. I need a few more measurements for the catch cans. At that point the only remaining purchases will be fluids and miscellaneous gaskets and rubber, coolant pipes.
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Old 10-11-2021, 11:02 PM   #122
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I purchased all the AN fittings and hoses I will need for the build, except for some hose ends for the catch cans. I'm going to wait until I can figure out exactly the ideal angles that will fit best because I don't know how much clearance there will be with the AC compressor, but the plan is to mount the cans on the frame rail. I may also need to buy some lines for the fuel rail to the flex fuel sensor and fuel rail, but that will have to wait until I get the kit or see the writeup. I also bough some silicone vacuum hoses.
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Old 10-16-2021, 06:11 PM   #123
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Keep the updates coming! Awesome stuff
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There's a point at 7,000 RPM... where everything fades. The machine becomes weightless. Just disappears. And all that's left is a body moving through space and time. 7,000 RPM. That's where you meet it. You feel it coming. It creeps up on you, close in your ear. Asks you a question. The only question that matters. Who are you?
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Old 10-17-2021, 08:58 PM   #124
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I’m curious to see what the final result costs! Leaning towards a k-swap myself once the engine decides it’s time.
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Old 10-18-2021, 01:11 AM   #125
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I’m curious to see what the final result costs! Leaning towards a k-swap myself once the engine decides it’s time.
For my build specifically? A lot. I sold an Ace header, Harrop supercharger kit, flex fuel kit, injectors, map sensor, OEM parts like my driveshaft and midpipe and stuff, so I recovered around $6500+ for this build. My motor and OEM parts were probably around $1500-2000. The manifold, turbo, wastegate, BOV was $3kish I think. The intercooler and pipes are $500ish. The Kpower kit was $8500ish for me, since I omitted the headers and intake. Injectors, map sensor, EBC, FF kit was $1000ish. AN lines were $600. I bought the JR oil cooler/radiator combo, which was extra and some other extras like the drift bar. I'll need to do tuning, and there is probably $1-2k in misc stuff I am forgetting. I don't know. I am not doing an Excel spreadsheet or anything.

The Kpower kit is $9635 with AC. The OEM parts are $1100. An engine is $750. Expect to pay for tuning and more misc parts, so $12500 for the swap alone. If you have a running FA20 you can sell then expect to do the swap for under $10k, excluding other additions like oil cooler, clutch, tires, brakes or any other supporting mods.

The good thing about this thread is everything I have bought is listed here for anyone to look up the price of the parts.
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Old 10-28-2021, 08:26 PM   #126
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Still waiting on the kit to ship. They said this week or next week, but I am not holding my breath, nor do I think it'll come all at the same time.

In the meantime, I had converted my MIG welder to work with an aluminum spool gun, so I could weld thick aluminum, which I used to weld the bungs on my valve cover and on the PCV port. I have a TIG welder, but I had purchased the last TIG welder off the shelf in such a rush that I didn't see it was DC only, so I sold it yesterday and bought a never opened, used TIG welder in such a way that it is basically like I bought this new TIG welder at a $80 discount, so everything worked out. I tried my hand at TIG welding, and it went rough enough that I will practice some before I tackle welding the IC pipes. I am not going for beautiful welds. I am going for that home-built, functional look. I planned to sleeve the pipes all along because I don't want any cracks or failures. I'm not a fan of butt welds on thin gauge tubing, but it will also make welding the thin-walled IC pipes and downpipe easier whether I use the TIG or MIG welder without worrying about blowing through the pipe.

What do I mean by sleeving the pipes? Well, one way is to use a tool to stretch the end of one pipe, so it slides over the top of the other end. This is sometimes called a slip-tip or slip-on style exhaust. My Ducati utilizes this with a double sleeve that the other end slides into that helps to reduce any leaks, and then it is retained with a spring. This isn't what I plan to do. I plan to use a weld sleeve like the pictures below, but of my own creation because why not, and these aren't available anymore. I plan to just cut an inch or so of pipe and finish the edges nice, and then I will just cut out enough of the circumference, so I can constrict the sleeve inside the end of the pipe. This will marginally reduce the inside radius and disrupt laminar flow inconsequentially, but it will guarantee a strong seem.



I also found a nice product on Vibrant's website for a 3'' to 2.5'' transition of a single side to their HD clamps, which perfectly fits my Aliexpress clamps and was reasonably cheap--nice surprise. It means I save some space and have one less thing to weld when I build the IC section where the 2.5'' pipe transitions to the 3'' inlet on the FMIC.
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