Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[BrahmaBull1990]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

Some of us have no choice. For me I have a job which pays well, pension and health benefits when I retire...

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Guess I should say “given the option.”

[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by BrahmaBull1990

Guess I should say “given the option.”

Lol same, the laws do suck but for my trade the best pay and benefits are in Cali I guess I could move to New York and make a bit more but NY expensive as fuck. I'm lucky to live in Sacramento. My salary breaks 6 figures and homes are still affordable. Breaking 6 figures in NY will get me a 1 bedroom apartment. I've been a homeowner for 4 yrs and I'm not even 30 yet. I could also move to texas and buy a home there but my salary would also drop to 50k. I'm just in a sweet spot if I moved yo SF or LA I wouldn't afford to buy a home. My house was 325k that same home in either LA or SF would cost 800k+.

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[WNDSRFR]

I'm having a problem with my ESC. It engages "intermittently". At first I thought the batteries were getting weak, but it seems like it has to do with the switch being intermittent. I took the switch apart thinking it was a simple on-off switch, but it is nothing of the sort. It looks like the brown wire is the power wire. It is the middle contactor on the phone jack and has 5.4v continuously.
The red wire is the output 5.4v and is activated by the switch. It is the tip of the phone jack. OK that all makes sense. Now comes the weird stuff. The yellow wire goes to the ring on the phone jack. Which connects to a potentiometer which goes to the green thing, then back to the pot. Then the third leg of the pot attaches to a resistor which is connected to normally closed terminal of the switch.
One of the really weird thins I noticed is if you disconnect the phone jack from the switch, the ESC runs continuously. I have no clue what's going on here.

Does anybody have a schematic or can in any way enlighten me as to what is going on here? This all has to do with to two stage switch by the way. If it was simply on/off, then it would be obvious.

[zc06_kisstherain]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

I'm having a problem with my ESC. It engages "intermittently". At first I thought the batteries were getting weak, but it seems like it has to do with the switch being intermittent. I took the switch apart thinking it was a simple on-off switch, but it is nothing of the sort. It looks like the brown wire is the power wire. It is the middle contactor on the phone jack and has 5.4v continuously.

The red wire is the output 5.4v and is activated by the switch. It is the tip of the phone jack. OK that all makes sense. Now comes the weird stuff. The yellow wire goes to the ring on the phone jack. Which connects to a potentiometer which goes to the green thing, then back to the pot. Then the third leg of the pot attaches to a resistor which is connected to normally closed terminal of the switch.

One of the really weird thins I noticed is if you disconnect the phone jack from the switch, the ESC runs continuously. I have no clue what's going on here.



Does anybody have a schematic or can in any way enlighten me as to what is going on here? This all has to do with to two stage switch by the way. If it was simply on/off, then it would be obvious.

I wish i know and i already fixed mine and running. Mine is just sitting and collecting dust. Someone can have a good use of it

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[Target70]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

I'm having a problem with my ESC. It engages "intermittently". At first I thought the batteries were getting weak, but it seems like it has to do with the switch being intermittent. I took the switch apart thinking it was a simple on-off switch, but it is nothing of the sort. It looks like the brown wire is the power wire. It is the middle contactor on the phone jack and has 5.4v continuously.
The red wire is the output 5.4v and is activated by the switch. It is the tip of the phone jack. OK that all makes sense. Now comes the weird stuff. The yellow wire goes to the ring on the phone jack. Which connects to a potentiometer which goes to the green thing, then back to the pot. Then the third leg of the pot attaches to a resistor which is connected to normally closed terminal of the switch.
One of the really weird thins I noticed is if you disconnect the phone jack from the switch, the ESC runs continuously. I have no clue what's going on here.

Does anybody have a schematic or can in any way enlighten me as to what is going on here? This all has to do with to two stage switch by the way. If it was simply on/off, then it would be obvious.

I haven't done electrical theory in almost 20 years and even that was technician level so take this with a grain of salt, but I think that yellow wire may be the low/floating ground to a pull down resistor. The whole system may be in a high/on state constantly, and the switch box grounds that signal Low to the ON relay. That's why disconnecting it might cause the motor to run. Closing the switch may break the ground causing the signal to go high and triggering the relay ON to send power to the motor. I really can't tell what the green thing is, at first I though it was a microswitch triggered at a slightly different time by the movement of the primary switch. but I don't see another button on the side so I'm not sure.

Sorry I can't be of much help, but I wish you luck trying to figure it out.

[WNDSRFR]

Thanks for the thoughts. Everything you say makes sense. The green thing is connected to the resistors which are somehow related to the time-delay function of the two step switch concept. I think the pot is adjusted to control the time delay. It's been so long I forgot.
Hell, i just discovered Hall Effect sensors the other day. I'm just an analog man in a digital world.

[WNDSRFR]

Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain

I still have mine that needs controller. If someone interested, i can let go for dirt cheap.

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Are you sure your batteries are OK? I'm thinking that when you shorted them, you might have blown up the batteries. As someone else has said, if the fuse in the controller is not blown, then probably the controller is not blown either. And you can't tell if the batteries are good by the voltage either, you need to load test them.
The reason I say this is because I thought my switch was intermittent, but it turns out the batteries are weak. My thought process for this is:

If the car is off for awhile, like first thing in the morning, the ESC does not work. If you watch the meter, what happens is, it reads 28.x volts. When I step on the gas the meter drops to 20 for a microsecond, then goes back to 28 with no boost. After I drive around for awhile (a couple minutes) the meter reads 28v, step on the gas,and the meter drops to 18-19 and I have normal boost for a full gearlenth. But shift gears and step on it again and no boost. Because the weak batteries can't hold a full charge.
I'm ordering new batteries today. Wish me luck replacing them. Every time I do it it scares the shit out of me. I've melted more than one wrench changing them. You have to be very carefull

[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

Are you sure your batteries are OK? I'm thinking that when you shorted them, you might have blown up the batteries. As someone else has said, if the fuse in the controller is not blown, then probably the controller is not blown either. And you can't tell if the batteries are good by the voltage either, you need to load test them.

The reason I say this is because I thought my switch was intermittent, but it turns out the batteries are weak. My thought process for this is:



If the car is off for awhile, like first thing in the morning, the ESC does not work. If you watch the meter, what happens is, it reads 28.x volts. When I step on the gas the meter drops to 20 for a microsecond, then goes back to 28 with no boost. After I drive around for awhile (a couple minutes) the meter reads 28v, step on the gas,and the meter drops to 18-19 and I have normal boost for a full gearlenth. But shift gears and step on it again and no boost. Because the weak batteries can't hold a full charge.

I'm ordering new batteries today. Wish me luck replacing them. Every time I do it it scares the shit out of me. I've melted more than one wrench changing them. You have to be very carefull

I had a very similar issue and buying new batteries sucks but I went to a local battery plus and picked up a brand new pair of odyssey just to test it out. And sure enough I was making max boost again. I went ahead and returned the batteries the next day got a full refund and ordered new ones online. But same when testing the batteries at home every thing read fine. The phantom made all the right beeps. And would spool but only up to 2 psi. The main battery turns on the phantom so everything will turn on like normal but if the dump pack batteries aren't charging well when you go ahead and hit boost it's not going to give any power to the esc even though everything is turning on in the controller unit.

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[WNDSRFR]

Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain

I wish i know and i already fixed mine and running. Mine is just sitting and collecting dust. Someone can have a good use of it

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Have you actually tested the controller to see if it's bad? It would only take a couple minutes to test. Just connect it up to a known good system and see if it works. Maybe someone in your area has a Phantom and will be willing to test it.
If not, you could send it to me and I'll test it for you. Of course if I was an unscrupulous asshole, I could test it good and say it was bad to lower the price. But I really feel sorry for you driving around an unboosted FR-S. The last couple days I've been without it and the car really has NO torque at all at low RPMs. It's amazing. Step on the gas at 3000 RPM and the car makes more noise. That's about it.

[zc06_kisstherain]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

Have you actually tested the controller to see if it's bad? It would only take a couple minutes to test. Just connect it up to a known good system and see if it works. Maybe someone in your area has a Phantom and will be willing to test it.
If not, you could send it to me and I'll test it for you. Of course if I was an unscrupulous asshole, I could test it good and say it was bad to lower the price. But I really feel sorry for you driving around an unboosted FR-S. The last couple days I've been without it and the car really has NO torque at all at low RPMs. It's amazing. Step on the gas at 3000 RPM and the car makes more noise. That's about it.

I even bought new switch and tested it.
even batteries are shot, voltage should drop if switch activates. nothing happens. if someone can fix it on controller, i would be happy let mine go.

[zc06_kisstherain]

anyone in NJ interested in 2 new dump batteries? since i dont have kit, i have no use for it
i can let these 2 go for $100

[zc06_kisstherain]

anyone in NJ interested in 2 new dump batteries? since i dont have kit, i have no use for it

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...&postcount=864

[BlOody_BoOger]

Alright guys! Well it's finally off. As most of you know I got hit with a state ref here in Cali, and due to life lol I've had to get rid of the frs and move into something more accommodating. But here it is the full twin set up I'm posting here first because I know you guys know what this is and some of you fallowed the build. I'm not gonna explain much but you have two complete systems I'll be giving you everything you need to make it work. If you're local to Sacramento CA we'll I can even throw in the dump batteries. If not then you will need to buy those and the starter. I'm assuming you already have an OFT otherwise you would need that aswell, and as for your tune well @steve99 is your guy, he pretty dailed in this set up so all he would need is to make minor adjustments. I'm asking 2000$ for this whole kit. Which is really cheap given what I spent on the pipework, clamps, flex kit and extra miscellaneous items to make this kit work. As for install if you're remote I can always provide help over video calls if your local I'm down to help you install for free.

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[l0aded]

So my car has been garaged for the past 3 years and the PC680MJ dump pack batteries are effectively dead.

Are the PC680s still the recommended dump pack batteries to use for the single TQ250?