Blown engine, suggestions?

[ShadeShot]

Do not know. Haven't seen them myself. Just what the mechanic said. But it definitely felt like there was a lot of slop and movement in the engine when it was trying to start. Makes me think some bearing. Didn't feel like enough to be a completely shattered rod though.

[DarkPira7e]

Originally Posted by TommyW

That makes zero sense.

Piston slap makes no sense? Maybe look into it, you'll get it

[TommyW]

Originally Posted by DarkPira7e

Piston slap makes no sense? Maybe look into it, you'll get it

more piston slap with closer tolerances makes no sense.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by TommyW

more piston slap with closer tolerances makes no sense.

Forged pistons expand/contact more with heat then cast. So cold tolerances are looser then with a cast piston. Just google “forged engine piston slap.”

[TommyW]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Forged pistons expand/contact more with heat then cast. So cold tolerances are looser then with a cast piston. Just google “forged engine piston slap.”

so it’s a cold engine situation and gets tight with heat then I’m assuming.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by TommyW

so it’s a cold engine situation and gets tight with heat then I’m assuming.

Yes. Sometimes on high HP builds you run a touch more clearance as well because you are subjecting the crown of the piston to more heat, so you need to allow for that expansion too. It is important to get forged pistons up into their operating range before you hammer on them. Especially with engines with aluminum blocks, and even more important if they don't have a liner, and are just a coated bore.

[ShadeShot]

So everyone got way off topic. Any ideas as to what would have caused the engine failure? I know we don't have a teardown yet. But it was at cruising speed. 6th gear. Low throttle. Car only has 220hp at the crank.

[Decep]

Anyone have a crystal ball handy? Or wants to make some intelligent sounding predictions?

[WC-BRZ]

Some of the people in this thread should really visit the JDL turbo and SBD turbo groups on Facebook. There are lots of members in both groups so the sample size is large.

Join the JDL turbo FB group and do a search for "IAG", "built block", etc...

...you will find plenty of discussion on blown blocks from these so called "reputable" brands. Truth be told, at this point the total flaming piece of trash that is the FA20 may be just as much to blame as these engine builders themselves.

Not trying to start an argument here but just wanted to point out that there's plenty of misinformation in here.

On thing is for sure, this sure as heck isn't an S2K drivetrain - that F20C and the transmission hold 400-450whp all...day...long and then some. Only thing you need to update is the diff...going way off topic here, but anyway...

Every time I get the mod bug I can't help but come to the conclusion that the S2K is simply the better platform, especially for taking boost.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by ShadeShot

So everyone got way off topic. Any ideas as to what would have caused the engine failure? I know we don't have a teardown yet. But it was at cruising speed. 6th gear. Low throttle. Car only has 220hp at the crank.

Not enough information to make any kind of prediction without tearing it down. Even if you had pictures it would be hard to tell. If it was just a spun bearing it should run but knock in most cases.

Originally Posted by WC-BRZ

...you will find plenty of discussion on blown blocks from these so called "reputable" brands. Truth be told, at this point the total flaming piece of trash that is the FA20 may be just as much to blame as these engine builders themselves.

Building an FA20 is putting lipstick on a pig

[gravitylover]

^^^ That's why I am pretty sure mine is a spun bearing (or two), it will still run but knocks like a bunch of kids beating on a piece of sheet metal with aluminum softball bats. Am I right to assume that there is no simple fix other than rebuild or replace the short block?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by gravitylover

Am I right to assume that there is no simple fix other than rebuild or replace the short block?

Pretty much. The engine needs torn down and the cases split. Labor would be insane on a job like that, and who knows what else you will find.

[WNDSRFR]

I say get original and build a one of a kind. Don't do an LS swap.
Find a Tesla drivetrain from a junkyard and mount it in your BRZ. Get the Dual Motor if you can.

The car probably won't handle as well as it used to, but it would be quicker than most anything in a straight line.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by allowe

Not doubting you but any chance you can link me to anyone running 400whp on a stock block? I’ve heard of people blowing up engines bone stock. As far as I know, around 280whp is the safe maximum amount to run boost at. I could be wrong tho.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I made 552 whp on the stock engine. Trashed the car on a 500 WHP map. The motor never gave up. I ran this setup for around 3 years. Having said that, I don't consider my experience to be the norm. I would be very cautious of going over 350-400 WHP on the stock block. I've definitely seen people with stock blocks stock power blown and have also seen built blocks fail. To me, the FA20 design is just not made for big power.

I would tell you to go ahead and swap the engine, but I also tried that, and to be really honest, I liked the car a ton more when it was turbo making 500 WHP than with the LS making 450 WHP and 450 WTQ.

I would say but a cheap engine, replace the stock one and enjoy it as is, or just replace it, sell the car and get into a different platform if you are wanting more power.