CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Optimoose20

Would you all recommend rce yellows + konis/bilsteins (and camber plates) for a DD/autoX car, or step up to the RCE T2 or KW V3s? I've heard camber plates are noisy for street use, but I also want to be at least marginally competitive in STX...

I think the spring + shock combo would be a good way to basically spend half as much as I would on decent coils, and I think it would still allow for decent competitiveness. The reality is I probably won't be fine tuning the car too much, so I would prioritize an out of the box solution.

Thanks in advance for any help

Cheers,
Christopher

Originally Posted by strat61caster

KW/RCE if you want to be marginally competitive. Don't forget you need the wheel clearance for 17x9s and at least -3 degrees of camber up front which you don't get with the lowering springs being 90mm ID.

What he said. Your region may vary but coilovers are generally needed to be competitive. I'd of course recommend T2s (they've been on a national championship winning car before, just not a BRZ yet) and would highly recommend them over standard KW V3.

- Andrew

[Optimoose20]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

What he said. Your region may vary but coilovers are generally needed to be competitive. I'd of course recommend T2s (they've been on a national championship winning car before, just not a BRZ yet) and would highly recommend them over standard KW V3.

- Andrew

Thanks Andrew - I was drawn to the KWs just for the softer spring rate but will definitely look at the T2s. Alternately, I might just go with the BRZ lite kit (I really like the drop on the RCE Yellows - not too extreme) and some better shocks and save some money for seat time. Decisions, decisions. I'd like to run in the 86 Cup, and I think adjustable coilovers add a few more points than springs + shocks.

Are the V3s/T2s easy to adjust?

Thanks for the help

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Optimoose20

Thanks Andrew - I was drawn to the KWs just for the softer spring rate but will definitely look at the T2s. Alternately, I might just go with the BRZ lite kit (I really like the drop on the RCE Yellows - not too extreme) and some better shocks and save some money for seat time. Decisions, decisions. I'd like to run in the 86 Cup, and I think adjustable coilovers add a few more points than springs + shocks.

Are the V3s/T2s easy to adjust?

Thanks for the help

Easy to adjust. Got to reach under to the bottom of the shock for the compression adjuster but it's not too much trouble.

The RCE Yellow lite kit works well and is a fun all around set up that's good to learn on. Just not quite as fast as T2s. Also great with Bilstein B6 too.

- Andrew

[TwinFTW]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

If only mod is camber bolts, just max out front camber (it won't be too much). Zero toe front, little bit of rear toe in (about 0.1 degrees total).

Have fun!

- Andrew

Thanks! My spec alignment guy was able to dial in -1.2 camber with zero toe up front with just camber bolts. The rear is set to -1.5 camber with 1/32 toe in.

Definitely more neutral than my original stock performance pack setup. However, I feel like I'm going to wear the outside shoulders of the primacys which is fine for now but would like to get it a little more dialed for a future track day so I don't trash new sticky rubber.

My alignment guy will not double up on camber bolts for safety reasons.

If I want more negative camber up front without giving up too much bump travel are the Pedders top mounts my best option?

[BlueWhelan]

Originally Posted by TwinFTW

Thanks! My spec alignment guy was able to dial in -1.2 camber with zero toe up front with just camber bolts. The rear is set to -1.5 camber with 1/32 toe in.



Definitely more neutral than my original stock performance pack setup. However, I feel like I'm going to wear the outside shoulders of the primacys which is fine for now but would like to get it a little more dialed for a future track day so I don't trash new sticky rubber.



My alignment guy will not double up on camber bolts for safety reasons.



If I want more negative camber up front without giving up too much bump travel are the Pedders top mounts my best option?

That’s what I did. Pedders + cam bolts landed me at -2.2. For a car that I drive daily, it’s perfect


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by TwinFTW

Thanks! My spec alignment guy was able to dial in -1.2 camber with zero toe up front with just camber bolts.

I got -1.75º in the front from just SPC 81305 bolts.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by TwinFTW

If I want more negative camber up front without giving up too much bump travel are the Pedders top mounts my best option?

I have a set to try soon for my car. They seem like a good option.

There are camber plates that don't sacrifice bump travel but they'll add a smidge of ride height.

- Andrew

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by M0nk3y

I would usually agree that 18x10 on a 255 is not ideal, however on an AO52 tire that's like a perfect fitment. The Yokohamas run extremely wide for their sizing, and actually perform/respond better when stretched on a wheel. Especially on the track, a tire fitment like this is ideal than say a 245 on 17x9 (exclusively talking about Yokohama AO52s). They feel worse than BFGs.



Especially with NASA, if that's who you intend to run, 245 R7s on a 17x9 is the hot ticket. Any more wheel and you violate the tire template, FWIW.



Do I have a buyer already??

Square is a better description than wide, although the A052 does run wide as well. The tire is more square, resulting in a larger contact patch for a typical identically sized cross-section as measured at the sidewall.

[dasting]

Looking for advice on DD/some track work. Background - I'm a nasa instructor, recently gave up racing SM because I have two young kids and not enough time. Picked up a BRZ for daily driving, and to also take to the track a few times a year. It'll only be used in DE sessions.

I've driven a few BRZs on track. One had KW v3s And star specs, not sure of all suspension mods, but it was a total ball to throw around track. Very predictable, easy to pull back in if it got sideways, fairly balanced grip level with what I think were star specs. I drove that back to back with a completely stock FRS, which only had 17x8s and 245 star specs and factory alignment. That car felt terrible, constantly riding on shoulders, grip threshold limit was significantly lower and frankly it was kind of a chore to muscle around track.

I was planning on full coilovers like the T2s and sways and top hats etc to make the car fast on track, but the more I've driven it on street the more I think all that grip will actually make the car way less fun as a daily. Low grip has always been better on street for me, even though on track I prefer Hoosiers and high grip. Plus, it's a lot of coin for the limited track time I'm realistically going to get right now. But I want to be able to drive it to track and not have it fall on its face.

Here's my current plan - RCE yellows, SPC 14mm crash bolt and OEM 14mm top in top slot to aim for -2* front camber. Rear offset bushings. 17x8 wheels with 225 star specs.

1st question - what sways? My plan was to make these changes and then try and dial in sways, probably something like the 25/19 hollow RCE or 22/16 white line. Does that sound right?
2nd question - do you think this will achieve what I'm looking for - retain street fun while getting to a pretty balanced ride on track that allows the ziii star specs to hit close ish to their limit. I'm purposely straying away from stickier tires like Rival S and RE71.

Disclaimer - I know this is a compromise, all setups are compromises when trying to work in two different scenarios. Looking for something that doesn't break the bank but is at least capable in both.

[churchx]

@dasting i'd think of more camber. Imho you also should have asked owner of the car you liked for alignment of his, which i strongly believe, had more camber then -2.
Retaining "street fun", yet have more grip on track .. just go for two wheel/tire sets (and also brake pad sets), with not too grippy "street set" tires. Imho that should do better then trying to compromise something in-between, resulting jack of all trades, master of none.

[strat61caster]

Totally agree with Church on this one, plenty of slidey liveliness on the street with ~300tw tires, NA, and an aggressiv-ish alignment/suspension. They can be your backup rain tires to boot, Conti ECS or PS4S. Currently dailying 6k/7k springs with -4°F/-2.3°R and OE sized Firestone Firehawk Indy 500's, larger front sway, OE rear, going to switch to the Contis soon I think.

Throw Hoosiers and a jack in the trunk, best of both worlds. KW/RCE's will be good to turn up/down between track and street, maybe get softer springs with the T2's or start with V3's and maybe budget for some stiffer springs after some seat time. Or maybe Ohlins, similar ballpark to the V3/T2, easier to revalve if you head one direction or another.

[HaXx]

hi friends

what camber bolts/crash bolt for top holes for the front coils

i have SPC in the bottom holes, id like to put eccentrics in the top holes too, a lot of people are talking about the OEM crash bolts, im not sure if i still have them from when i replaced the lowers. will the SPC bolts fit in the top holes too
links appreciated

[Ohio Enthusiast]

SPC 81280 fit the top holes. I guess for the bottom holes you have the SPC 81260, right? I got around -1.2 degrees with the 81280 in the top holes alone.

[Mr.GiF]

Hi guys,

i have ordered from 86speed some new wheels the Titan 7 T-S5 18x9.5 for my GT86, and was planing also to do a suspension upgrade to the car (since my old ones seams to be shot and for the fitment of the new wheels)

with the research i did on which coil-overs to get i wanted to keep a ride quality close to oem comfort and wont be going much lower than stock for the street since in my country we have nice and juicy potholes.

i do some auto cross but mostly very very spirited driving (our police is checking their snap chat most of the time and do not bother chasing anybody since they installed speed cameras, but they will fine you for window tinting )

so i wanted to get the Tein Flex A CSG Spec as they seam to fit what i want from a coil-over

the problem is that i cant find a place that sells them and ship internationally (i live in Saudi Arabia)

so dose anybody knows a way for me to get them, with reasonable shipping, or suggest an alternative to them?

this is my first mod to the car since buying the car in 2015

Thank you