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Old 05-11-2020, 09:44 PM   #43
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Someone in your family hates you.
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Old 05-11-2020, 09:48 PM   #44
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I’m praying X to the Z xzibit or chip foose will come to my house and be like “yo we pimped your ride but fucked the other one up.”
You can't pray to xzibit but you can pray to HOVA. (Jay-Z)



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Old 05-11-2020, 10:06 PM   #45
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On another not. Does anyone want to buy some W3 pads front and back either centric rotors. Paid $598 plus $93 shipping. I could drop it off locally or someone can pick them up.
Should I take off my aftermarket taillights and put the stocks or just leave it and see what the insurance says?
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Old 05-11-2020, 10:45 PM   #46
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I have both key fobs. One was on the key rack by the door with a dead battery so you would have to know that you put it against the start button to start the car. And my daily fob was on a workbench inside my garage. Way to far to activate it the starter. The kicker is that my dad was going to give me the pink slip for the chevelle on Sunday as a birthday gift.
So since no one seemed to hear the Chevelle leave the garage (probably in no small part due to recovering from several tasty beverages), it was probably rolled out and pushed away, probably far enough down the street that someone could do a quick hookup and tow it away somewhere not right in front of the house, maybe even push it up onto a trailer and drove away.

But more importantly, oh look, conveniently enough here are some working keys for the other car right outside (that's unlocked anyway), right here in the garage too! Spiffy! Joyride around the block/in the neighborhood gone wrong, bring it back and park it in the driveway like a guilty child, put the key fob back where it was, leave and hope no one notices.

If you have a car with a fob, I say take the slight inconvenience of not having your keys near the car/front door and put them somewhere far on the other side of the house to lessen the chance of anyone spoofing it or just getting lucky with the range. And if you really want to be paranoid about it, put them in a metal box that will block the signal. I think even wrapping it in time foil can work in some cases.

Someone else said it before already, but I'm looking at anybody who was there that night that didn't spend the night. Either they did it or they're involved because they called a friend or two about an easy score, and the FR-S was very unfortunate collateral damage.

This whole thing truly sucks, but also please don't create crimes of opportunity for yourself, man. Lock your stuff up no matter how nice and quiet a neighborhood you're in. If it has a lock, might as well use it.

You might luck out with the damage being all repairable, but as these cars get older that just becomes less of a possibility. And if I were you, anything you don't want to go bye-bye with the car you should take off before it gets taken away, provided you're not messing with anything that would be evidence of the damages done. Insurance doesn't care about mods anyway. They'll barely care if you just put brand new brakes and tires on the day before. Aftermarket taillights and such, they're not going to compensate you any extra for them, and if they total the car and you can't buy it back, you don't get those parts back.
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Old 05-11-2020, 11:07 PM   #47
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Should I take off my aftermarket taillights and put the stocks or just leave it and see what the insurance says?

slow your roll. insurance moves at about half the speed you're running at. let them do their thing, they'll give you their diagnosis and options, and then you move forward.
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Old 05-11-2020, 11:37 PM   #48
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Aftermarket taillights and such, they're not going to compensate you any extra for them, and if they total the car and you can't buy it back, you don't get those parts back.
this isn't entirely true. extra insurance coverage can be had to cover modifications, and in some cases, just receipts of the mods can be enough to add them to the claim. though it's usually when dealing with another persons insurance.



the general process is this:

car gets damaged.

police report gets filed, you contact your insurance company to report the damage.

car is relocated to a repair facility.

at the repair facility, the insurance company sends out a claims adjuster to assess the damage and come up with an estimate to repair.

the adjuster works with the repair facility to come up with a total list of the damaged parts and their associated repair costs.

depending on the individual insurance companies policies and state total loss percentages, they make a determination whether to repair or total the vehicle.

next they call you, and fill you in on their diagnosis. (up to this point, i've been through this twice)

if the car is repairable, and assuming you've got full coverage, in this case, until the police can conclude that someone else is at fault, you/insurance would carry on as if you had damaged the car yourself. you pay your deductible, and the repair facility starts to collect the parts to repair the car to the condition it was before the incident.

if the car is totaled, you've got really got 2 options. (been through this once)

1.you get in contact with the repair facility to figure out a time to clear out personal effects--this is the step that any and all aftermarket parts can be removed. when i went through this, they said the car just had to be complete as it came from the factory, but parts did not need to be installed where they were--definitely clarify this with the insurance company though before doing any of it. so i pulled all my stereo gear, and dumped the stock stuff in the passenger footwell.

after all the personal effects are removed, the insurance company then gets info about any lien-holders and such on the car, and gives you a fair market value figure for the car. they get in contact with the lein-holders to get a payoff amount, and the remainder is made available to you in a check. then you stay in contact with the insurance company, and go to their main office to hand over the keys, sign some paperwork that makes the car their property, they cut you the check, and it's all over but the crying.

for me, i did all of this step on a saturday. i confirmed with the repair place was open early saturday morning, and told them what i'd need to get into on the car. they made it clear that i could take just about anything i wanted as long as the car was complete when i left.

after that, i drove up to the insurance companies main office an hour away, a lady at a window shuffled some paperwork, i signed here, here, here, and here, gave her the keys, she gave me a check, and then i drove straight back to the dealer i bought the first car from and bought a replacement off the showroom floor...

2. the other option here is to buy the car back from the insurance company. it will have a salvage (branded) title, but you could then repair the car out of your own pocket(labor is a huge expense in the repair quote, so it's very easy to be done much cheaper if your labor is 'free'), and either continue using it or attempt to resell it. i don't know a ton about this option other than the fact that it is an option.
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Old 05-11-2020, 11:48 PM   #49
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How much do you think the twins are worth? I know most people say being special edition with these doesn’t make a difference. But it only had 58k miles. I owe $9k currently with full coverage and gap insurance with my financial institution.
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Old 05-11-2020, 11:55 PM   #50
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i'm seeing trade-in values around 7-$9k. i wouldn't expect their offer to be much higher than that.

very crude rule of thumb is about 75% of the value before they total it($6750 in repair costs). i'm thinking you'll be looking for something new
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Old 05-12-2020, 12:16 AM   #51
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this isn't entirely true....
I didn't want to quote the entire thing you had up there (but I did read it all ), but yes, you're right. It can definitely be situational. I know in my case of losing my previous car when they totaled it I wasn't allowed to do anything but get my plates and plate brackets back. The car was still driveable after the incident, so I brought it home and I'd already removed personal things from it, as is my habit whenever my car's in anyone else's hands to get work done. It was towed from my home. After they determined it would be totaled, they would not let me remove anything from the car that was currently on it, and had I known this I would have removed the few things that weren't born on it and that they didn't factor into the car's overall value and put the factory parts back on. Ended up losing a pretty decent and discontinued strut tower brace that someone would've bought from me and continued to use happily on their car.

Receipts definitely can make a difference, but I don't assume most people keep those things around like they should.

In the case of my mother losing her car a few years back, it happened the very same day she got new brakes and tires put on. She was literally driving home from the shop and got rear ended and shoved into the car in front of her. Car was bent up good on both ends and totaled. She had to give the insurance company some grief to get close to full compensation for what were tires and brakes that had a literal handful of miles on them. She's a receipt keeper, though, so that's what helped.


Bello, you'll have to pardon my knee-jerk reaction about removing stuff from the car. As it goes with anything, your mileage may vary, but I suppose the best thing for you to do would be to ask those questions of your insurance adjuster so that you know what your options and rights are should they total the car. If you've got receipts for anything you have on the car to prove their value, use them, and just be honest about it. Don't try to take them for a ride and just try to get the fair value for the car. If they'll let you take off aftermarket stuff and put the originals back with the car, that's up to you. If they won't, that's just part of the risk of modifying a car. Yes, it's a special edition and that may factor into value a bit, as will mileage, but overall the annoying answer of "it depends" is the best you're going to get for now. I would like to say, regardless of the region of the country you're in, for you to be made whole with a comparable car in terms of mileage and (factory) options, it is pretty likely they will value the car at least a little more than what you owe on it, even if it's only by a few thousand. You'll just have to see what they have to say.

You can also do your own homework and search around for Series 10s in your area and, if any are out there with similar mileage to yours, same transmission, etc., see what their current value is. This way if they try to offer you much less than that, you'll have some examples that show what a car like yours is typically valued at in the current market.

EDIT: Looks like Soundman already did some legwork for you. I haven't been keeping up on the values of the older cars, so I'm pretty surprised to see them finally starting to fall under 5 figure prices.
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Old 05-12-2020, 12:23 AM   #52
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Im just wondering if we will ever hear the true story about what happened....
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Old 05-12-2020, 01:20 AM   #53
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Im just wondering if we will ever hear the true story about what happened....


All I know is that I have a headache just from reading all of that, let alone trying to figure it out.
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Old 05-12-2020, 07:26 AM   #54
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The real question is how valuable was the Chevelle? Was it one of those that was totally refurbished and could be worth a ton to someone?
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Old 05-12-2020, 08:04 AM   #55
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I keep seeing threads like these and think "I wonder how much @Dave-ROR will bid on this one....LOL)
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Old 05-12-2020, 08:13 AM   #56
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I keep seeing threads like these and think "I wonder how much @Dave-ROR will bid on this one....LOL)
Its in cali, you'd have to bid! Lol
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