Advice for purchase

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Although we may be the wrong two on here to ask about "high mileage" at 72K!

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Dadhawk

Although we may be the wrong to on here to ask about "high mileage" at 72K!

Maybe but it has been my observation here that the folks that do under 10K a year also seem to be the ones with the most issues and complaints with the car.

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Maybe but it has been my observation here that the folks that do under 10K a year also seem to be the ones with the most issues and complaints with the car.

The second worse thing you can do to a car is drive it, the first is to rarely drive it.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by nicks

should i be worried about the flood though? i mean, it was bought at auction, rebuilt by the dealer, and sold to another person. theyve had it for 3 years and had no issues, which they probably would’ve experienced some of the car was rebuilt wrong or sloppy right? also, in terms of length, with a little bit of TLC, hopefully it can last me around 3 years. i dont have the money to be doing constant repairs. i’ve heard horror stories of brz engines blowing at 90-100k, but i’ve also seen some brz’s with over 120k miles. i drive about 15k miles a year btw.

after 3 years, i really wouldn't worry and would accept the discount, but if you're worried, you could inspect the areas under the carpets(focus on the area's with electrical connections, where the metal has a chance to corrode) in the car to confirm/deny your fears-- that's where any water issues are going to rear their ugly heads first.

but if this is a fear, it might be worth skipping this car for your own sanity.

many cars were salvaged in that time for 'flood damage' in texas if any part of the wheels were under water. it's entirely possible that the water never rose above the bottoms of the chassis rails under the doors, but was salvaged anyways to prevent the insurance company from having to pay out later for expensive unsolvable electrical gremlins.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by soundman98

after 3 years, i really wouldn't worry and would accept the discount, but if you're worried, you could inspect the areas under the carpets(focus on the area's with electrical connections, where the metal has a chance to corrode) in the car to confirm/deny your fears-- that's where any water issues are going to rear their ugly heads first.

but if this is a fear, it might be worth skipping this car for your own sanity.

many cars were salvaged in that time for 'flood damage' in texas if any part of the wheels were under water. it's entirely possible that the water never rose above the bottoms of the chassis rails under the doors, but was salvaged anyways to prevent the insurance company from having to pay out later for expensive unsolvable electrical gremlins.

The car fax shows the "damage" was confined to the rear and was minor.

[soundman98]

i really wouldn't worry too much. maybe let the place you're bringing it for inspection know about where the damage is, so they can focus a little more in that area just for peace of mind.

i would actually recommend bringing the vehicle to a trusted body shop for inspection instead of a mechanics shop--because it's the same type of magician that likely fixed the damage the first times, they know best what to look for in a quality or non-quality repair.

there's really nothing wrong with a salvage title vehicle (regardless of the circumstances that it became a salvage title) as long as it was repaired properly and competently. every manufacturer maintains a specific repair procedure manual for exactly this purpose.

you're goal as a used buyer should be to verify that there were no shortcuts taken in the salvage repair process, the previous owners took care of maintenance as it was needed, and that the car wasn't significantly modified and returned to stock to resell(which would indicate that many components were put under more stress, which could lead to increased maintenance costs later).

[Stonehorsw]

Subscribed.

[Stonehorsw]

Talking about unclean titles, how hard and how should one proceed in case of lien title?

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by Stonehorsw

Talking about unclean titles, how hard and how should one proceed in case of lien title?

the first and most important thing is that there shouldn't be a lien on a vehicle when they go to sell it. i wouldn't bother even trying, because it adds an extra complex step to everything, additional stress, as well as an additional spot everything can go wrong.

the general consensus i've gotten from experts far more knowing than me is to make arrangements with the seller to meet at the issuing bank with an appropriately sized money order or bankers check. seller uses this to pay off the lien to the bank within the presence of buyer, buyer accepts title from bank.

any deviation from this, most seem to advise to RUN LIKE HELL.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Stonehorsw

Talking about unclean titles, how hard and how should one proceed in case of lien title?

Originally Posted by soundman98

the first and most important thing is that there shouldn't be a lien on a vehicle when they go to sell it. i wouldn't bother even trying, because it adds an extra complex step to everything, additional stress, as well as an additional spot everything can go wrong.

the general consensus i've gotten from experts far more knowing than me is to make arrangements with the seller to meet at the issuing bank with an appropriately sized money order or bankers check. seller uses this to pay off the lien to the bank within the presence of buyer, buyer accepts title from bank.

any deviation from this, most seem to advise to RUN LIKE HELL.

This ^


I want to buy the car from the owner and when there is a lien there is more than one of them. Would want nothing to do with that shit.
When I sold the FRS one of the very first things I did was get the documentation showing there was no lien on the car. I would not buy from anybody that did or can not do the same.