Buddy32's WRB BRZ "Buddy"

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by buddy32

I live in west midtown, near tech. I daily'ed the T2's for awhile when I was in search for another daily. It's fine. I don't mind doing it, just wanted to keep some miles off the BRZ. In my opinion, it's stiff, but i still liked it a lot better. I pay a lot more attention on swerving away from pot holes and such, makes me more attentive on the road (training for track attentiveness lol)

Do you have another car, or is this your daily? For what it's worth, I would make the same decision and still go T2s with standard rates, even if the BRZ was my only car.

@ATL BRZ may want to chime in here as well. He's got the same coilover/bbk setup. But came from yellows/stock setup.

Agree 100%. The T2's are faster dampers and much better at their job despite being stiffer with 400 lb springs. You can dial them back to get oem-like ride quality.

Originally Posted by Firestorm_86

Yeah, it was his setup that made me consider just doing the springs. The stock dampers are decently good. But I need about a .5-1" drop so my wheels don't look funny/rally. So the springs would be the cheapest, but the more pricey right if I do the dampers, etc later on.

Also, can you reuse the OEM hats? I'm not a hardcore tracker like @ATL BRZ. It'll be a DD, with lots of mountains whenever I can. So I'm not in a rush to get the 'perfect' track alignment, so camber bolts and OEM tophats would be preferrred.

Yes you can reuse OEM hats with some coilovers like what RCE offer. You can still use camber bolts, too, but if you go with springs on the oem struts just be aware that lots of 9" wide wheels and/or a 245 width tire may have trouble fitting without a spacer to prevent rubbing.

Springs are a great option but they will only get you so far (which is pretty damn far IMO) once you start high performance driving with the car. Springs + Sway bars will get you even further. Right around the time you begin using wide/sticky (245s and above) street tires or RComps you will notice the springs on oem dampers to not quite be up to the task IF and ONLY IF you're flogging the car at the limit of adhesion.

Another good, cheaper coilover option would be the RCE Tarmac Zero's with preset damping and softer springs. If you're cool with a mild drop like .8 inches then go with the Yellows and camber bolts, it's a great upgrade with perfect DD-ability. If you want to really adjust your ride height, then go ahead and get some entry level coilovers. No need for the T2's for your application, IMO.

[Firestorm_86]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

Agree 100%. The T2's are faster dampers and much better at their job despite being stiffer with 400 lb springs. You can dial them back to get oem-like ride quality.




Yes you can reuse OEM hats with some coilovers like what RCE offer. You can still use camber bolts, too, but if you go with springs on the oem struts just be aware that lots of 9" wide wheels and/or a 245 width tire may have trouble fitting without a spacer to prevent rubbing.

Springs are a great option but they will only get you so far (which is pretty damn far IMO) once you start high performance driving with the car. Springs + Sway bars will get you even further. Right around the time you begin using wide/sticky (245s and above) street tires or RComps you will notice the springs on oem dampers to not quite be up to the task IF and ONLY IF you're flogging the car at the limit of adhesion.

Another good, cheaper coilover option would be the RCE Tarmac Zero's with preset damping and softer springs. If you're cool with a mild drop like .8 inches then go with the Yellows and camber bolts, it's a great upgrade with perfect DD-ability. If you want to really adjust your ride height, then go ahead and get some entry level coilovers. No need for the T2's for your application, IMO.

It was the dialing back for OE ride quality I'm looking for. I'm afraid that the Zero's may be configured too stiff. Is that true?

If the Zero's can use OEM tophats, that might be what I go for. But your setup with the Yellows seemed great. But that brings another question. For the OE dampers, I generally like the handling of the FRS. I don't fully understand how the stiffer spring rates will react to the OE dampers. But I was leaning towards the swifts because they were a little softer and closer to the factory FRS ratio.

2.3/3.8 - Stock FRS
2.7/3.5 - Stock BRz
4.4/5.3 - Swift Spec-R's
4.4/4.4 - RCE Yellows
3.8/4.5 - Swift BRZ
3.0/4.5 - Swift FRS

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by Firestorm_86

It was the dialing back for OE ride quality I'm looking for. I'm afraid that the Zero's may be configured too stiff. Is that true?

If the Zero's can use OEM tophats, that might be what I go for. But your setup with the Yellows seemed great. But that brings another question. For the OE dampers, I generally like the handling of the FRS. I don't fully understand how the stiffer spring rates will react to the OE dampers. But I was leaning towards the swifts because they were a little softer and closer to the factory FRS ratio.

2.3/3.8 - Stock FRS
2.7/3.5 - Stock BRz
4.4/5.3 - Swift Spec-R's
4.4/4.4 - RCE Yellows
3.8/4.5 - Swift BRZ
3.0/4.5 - Swift FRS

Lots of testimonials on the suspension subform for the Zeros if you search for them:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38403

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52755

If you go with springs, given that you want to preserve the oversteery nature of the FR-S in stock form, I'd go with the Swift FRS springs as you'll be happiest with those. The Yellows will make the car handle much more neutral with equal rates.

[Firestorm_86]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

Lots of testimonials on the suspension subform for the Zeros if you search for them:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38403

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52755

If you go with springs, given that you want to preserve the oversteery nature of the FR-S in stock form, I'd go with the Swift FRS springs as you'll be happiest with those. The Yellows will make the car handle much more neutral with equal rates.

So the ratios will generally affect the oversteer nature. What about the actual spring rates?

I was thinking the BRZ Swifts to make it more neutral, but still lean towards oversteer. What would the difference be between:

4.4/5.3 - Swift Spec-R's
and
3.8/4.5 - Swift BRZ

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by Firestorm_86

So the ratios will generally affect the oversteer nature. What about the actual spring rates?

I was thinking the BRZ Swifts to make it more neutral, but still lean towards oversteer. What would the difference be between:

4.4/5.3 - Swift Spec-R's
and
3.8/4.5 - Swift BRZ

They would both promote oversteer at the limit, but the Spec-R's I'd say would play more nicely with wider/stickier tires.

[buddy32]

Haven't made any updates in a hot min.

Update: power mods coming. purchased the Ptuning turbokit and I can't say enough about the guys at @ptuning. The countless fb messages @Mrc@ptuning answered as well as Toan taking the time over the phone to answer all the questions I had for him. Mike and Patrick took care of the ordering process and were extremely accommodating even though I changed my mind on a few items quite a few times over the 3 week wait period. Communication was A+++++++++++.

I ordered pretty much the whole sch-bang to try and do this right the first time. Ptuning header (thermal coated, although didn't take it apart oops...), Ptuning turbo kit, Ptuning turbo back exhaust system, Ptuning oil cooler kit, Ptuning EBCS, Koyo Radiator, got the rear sway bar since Ptuning includes a new front sway bar in the turbo kit, rear end links (so that I can get corner balancing done later on), Innovate oil temp/pressure gauge, AEM wideband failsafe, Raidum dual catch cans, Ptuning lightweight battery tray kit (Odyssey PC680), ACT 6 puck PTSB7-HDG6 clutch.

I'm travelling for a few weeks and will start the install process hopefully Jan 8th. Everything was packaged EXTREMELY well. Inspected parts for damage and didn't see anything that jumped out at me. The box that contained the exhaust looked like it was ripped up a bit, but there was extra padding inside so nothing was damaged. Everything had it's own little bag/ label. Probably one of the most detailed packing jobs I've seen from any company for any product.















Shout out to @Reaper, @CSG Mike, @ATL BRZ, @rb6freak, @s30series, @ptuning, @Mrc@ptuning for all the help, discussions and info!! Can't thank these guys enough for being so helpful really even when they didn't need to be. for the enthusiasts on the forum!!

Can't wait for Jan 8th!!!!!!!!! Haven't been this excited for a long time!

[Fakk]

Today is January 8th, I'm ready to see how this turns out I made an account here just because, I've been reading for a few months. Currently deployed, but looking at getting a used 86(or maybe new for the right price) when I get home, and going with the ptuning kit. I'm interested to see how you do with it! I like where your ride is going!

[buddy32]

Brief overview of what's been done so far...

The clutch, header, injectors, 4 bar map sensor, koyo radiator, front sway bar and end links are complete. Just started to dig into the kit. The first few steps are done of relocating stuff and removing windshield wiper fluid reservoir. Cam plate is replaced and the next step will be figuring out the lines and then on to the exciting parts!!

Work schedule will begin on Monday, so I'll only be able to work on the car on Fridays and Saturdays. We're taking our sweet time though, want to make sure we do everything correctly. The hardest part so far has been getting the sway bar inserts on the damn sway bar itself...everything else has gone pretty smoothly.





20k miles

[buddy32]

Made some headway this weekend. Ran into some hiccups, but will see how things turn out. Not sure if anyone else who's installed this kit has run into the same problems or not, but if so, please chime in!!

We have the turbo, wastegate, oil savenge pump, and intercooler mounted. I'll take some better pictures next time. Everything mounted up the way it was supposed to, but tight spaces and the lift being taken made things a little bit harder to do with the car on jack stands. If you have a lift, use it!



The oil lines going to the turbo were updated but the installation instructions were not, so we were scratching out heads for a bit trying to make sense of the instructions. The thermal wrap included in the kit was not the correct one as well but they shipped the updated ones out on the same day. @Mrc@ptuning responded almost immediately on FB and got the guys at the @ptuning shop to email me the diagram and Mr. C made sure I understood where everything was supposed to go. Level of communication is first rate!



I know, can't tell much from the picture above, but we were just so goddamn excited to get the intercooler on. Also, we wasted more than a few minutes after bolting stuff up under the car admiring how well everything was fabricated and laid out, i'm sure i'm not the first person to say this.

On to my problem/ question. I've got the RCE T2's installed on the car with Raceseng camber plates. Camber was set at -3 before I started this turbo install. After we re-installed the sway bar included in the kit, we proceeded to install the end links. I turned the hub assembly to get some clearance to make the connections and noticed that it was extremely close on top. When I turned the assembly one way, the top would scrape against the wheel well. When I turned the assembly the other way, the bottom of the coilover would come into contact with the body of the end link.





Will this problem will solve itself when I lower the car back down onto the ground? I'm pretty sure I have the endlinks situated the correct orientation, the top facing the rotors, and the bottom facing the motor. Patrick at the shop advised to reel in the camber a little from -3 degrees and it may solve the problem. I obviously haven't screwed with it and just thought I'd deal with it later. If anyone has any insight, please advise?

[buddy32]

So close I can taste it!

@Mrc@ptuning continues to provide awesome support. Came into an issue where the pipes weren't clearing in the engine bay and with help from both Mr C. and @rb6freak, finally got the clearance needed with some playing around. We thought the intercooler piping was gonna be easy, but turns out it's reeeeeally tight and takes some meddling around to get everything perfect.

Got the camber bolts but haven't installed them yet. Thanks to @sw20kosh for the input!! Still need to install are gauges, EBCS, some bushing inserts, camber bolts.





The factory MAF sensor didn't want to get plugged back in and it seemed like the plug was coming into contact with the surface of the mounting location and we grinded a tiny bit off the side.

[Carlos_M]

Wasn't able to tell from the pictures but was the washer fluid bottle relocated or removed completely? On another note, this build is awesome!

-Carlos

[buddy32]

As of right now it's just removed completely. I'll get it later on if I really feel like I need it. In the meantime, I'll just have a spray bottle of fluid in the trunk or something... :p

[Fakk]

Originally Posted by Carlos_M

Wasn't able to tell from the pictures but was the washer fluid bottle relocated or removed completely? On another note, this build is awesome!

-Carlos

The ptuning kit removes it, but they recently came out with a new/relocated washer bottle

[Carlos_M]

Originally Posted by Fakk

The ptuning kit removes it, but they recently came out with a new/relocated washer bottle

Thank you for the clarification.

-Carlos