Gas pedal became less sensitive over time after purchasing brand new

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by ghostzfh

Where do I start with flashing? I keep hearing about Ecutek and OFT. I'm kind of new to that stuff. How do I know which tune to flash to get a linear 1:1 pedal response?

If that is really important to you, I suggest you take your car to a tuner to have it done.

[ghostzfh]

@humfrz Is it not practical for an enthusiast to do it?

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by ghostzfh

@humfrz Is it not practical for an enthusiast to do it?

Oh, I suppose that if you really got "enthused" about it, wanted to spend the money and learn how to use the program, it would be OK -

[Turdinator]

Originally Posted by ghostzfh

How do I know which tune to flash to get a linear 1:1 pedal response?

What do you mean by this? I know describing what you want throttle response wise is hard but 1:1 tells me nothing really.

My guess is what you're experiencing is a bit of a blend of what humfrz and soundman98 have suggested. You probably have adjusted to the feel of the car and it feels normal rather than sharp to you. Also most cars also feel more doughy in hot weather. The air is less dense and you are more prone to knock. Our ECU pulls timing LONG before you will hear or feel knock. The reduced timing makes the motor feel less sharp on top of just the effect from the hot air.

A drop in filter and a tune will wake the car up a bit and make it feel sharper in general. Modifying a car is a slippery slope tho. When you see the results and how easy it can be you'll probably want more....

[ghostzfh]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Oh, I suppose that if you really got "enthused" about it, wanted to spend the money and learn how to use the program, it would be OK -

@humfrz - Understood. But the practically of it? Does it just take way too much time to learn and a lot of money to spend for the average person? Is it synonymous with how an average person would rather take their car to a mechanic instead of learning about how cars work to swap out their transmission?
@Turdinator ...

Originally Posted by Turdinator

You probably have adjusted to the feel of the car and it feels normal rather than sharp to you.

I remember how the car operated when I first bought it, and it has changed over time. I wouldn't consider it abnormal, or normal, it just is.

Originally Posted by Turdinator

Also most cars also feel more doughy in hot weather. The air is less dense and you are more prone to knock. Our ECU pulls timing LONG before you will hear or feel knock. The reduced timing makes the motor feel less sharp on top of just the effect from the hot air.

Agreed. It feels slightly better in colder weather, but the issue still persists even in cold weather.

Originally Posted by Turdinator

Modifying a car is a slippery slope tho.

Slippery slope...how?

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by ghostzfh

@humfrz - Understood. But the practically of it? Does it just take way too much time to learn and a lot of money to spend for the average person? Is it synonymous with how an average person would rather take their car to a mechanic instead of learning about how cars work to swap out their transmission?

Oh, I don't mean to discourage you from learning how to work on your own car. That can be a very educational and rewarding experience.

I have a timing light, vacuum gauge, dwell meter, spark plug gauge, feeler gauge, compression gauge and many years experience tuning all kinds of ICE that has a distributor and a carburetor.

However, when they took away the distributor and carburetor, I fell behind -

Now, when my machine ain't running right, I take it up to my local, trusted automotive shop and ask them to fix it - .

Wanna hear about the time I changed out the clutch in my 1937 Chevrolet pickup truck, while it was parked outside in the barnyard, up hill, at night, during the winter, below freezing, with only a coal oil light to see by, with my grandfathers rusted tools from a tractor's tool box and it was snowing and the snow was blowing ....... both ways...... and did I mention it was uphill (both ways)?

[Turdinator]

Originally Posted by ghostzfh

@humfrz - Understood. But the practically of it? Does it just take way too much time to learn and a lot of money to spend for the average person? Is it synonymous with how an average person would rather take their car to a mechanic instead of learning about how cars work to swap out their transmission?
@Turdinator ...

Applying a tune is easy peasy. Easier than swapping out the manual transmission on our cars. Learning to tune yourself and dialing it in would be harder and more time consuming than swapping out the transmission.

Generally people buy an off the shelf tune and apply it via Ecutek or use OFT that comes with tunes. The overview is that OFT is cheaper but you only have tunes from the one tuner and he doesn't really support our platform anymore. The tunes he made are pretty good tho and you can freely tweak parts of the tune as you see fit. Ecutek is a product for flashing new tunes and there are hundreds of tuners worldwide that use it. Some of the popular tuners are active on these forums and have premade tunes that cover the most common mods people do on our cars. There are some good write ups on the forum if you are interested in tunes and it will save me from typing paragraphs about it all if you find one of those.

Originally Posted by ghostzfh

Agreed. It feels slightly better in colder weather, but the issue still persists even in cold weather.

My car seems to feel best when it is around 20c outside. Do you find its less responsive below the torque dip but still pretty good above it?

Originally Posted by ghostzfh

Slippery slope...how?

It can be addictive...

[FR-S2GT86]

I second the battery reset and accelerator relearn procedure as a first step.

1) Disconnect the negative terminal of your battery and leave it disconnected long enough so that the static voltage charges dissipate, a good 30 minutes should do it.

2) Reconnect the negative terminal, get in the car, turn the key to ON without starting the car and slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way down then all the way back up at least ten times. Then turn the car back off.

3) Make sure you have 93 octane in the tank, start it up and drive it for about ten minutes normally, then from there on, drive it aggressively.

[Ultramaroon]

Or maybe it's pulling throttle because of VSC. Before you unplug anything, do the pedal dance and see if the throttle response improves. Maybe yaw sensor is drifting out of cal. It pulls throttle way before the skid light comes on.

[ghostzfh]

@Turdinator - Well, if the torque dip is around 4,500 (can't remember) then yes.
@humfrz - Definitely can picture you in the winter doing this
@FR-S2GT86 - A lot of people have suggested this....Maybe I'll try it, but I hate the fact that I'll have to do this constantly...
@Ultramaroon - Haha I read all your previous posts in the past on this problem. I love how adamant you are on the VSC thing. The only problem is that I don't want to turn off trac, vsc, and abs just to get the throttle fixed. I want to be able to fix the throttle and have those things on.


Honestly, I think the problem is due to the fact that my powertrain and engine got worn out badly from me learning how to drive manual on my car. All of those bad shifts and bad clutch engagements probably wore out the mechanical components compared to when the car was brand new. Not sure if anyone will agree with me on that.

[churchx]

From various dyno charts, most commonly torque dip is 3.5K-4K. Rarely issue for steady driving (usually 1.7-3K), and for performance driving on track (4K-redline).

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by ghostzfh

@Ultramaroon - Haha I read all your previous posts in the past on this problem. I love how adamant you are on the VSC thing. The only problem is that I don't want to turn off trac, vsc, and abs just to get the throttle fixed. I want to be able to fix the throttle and have those things on.

It SUCKS! haha...


This time it's really just to test. Throttle response is just fine in all but threshold cases unless "something's wrong." If you were to try it and discovered a dramatic difference when just driving normally, then I'd take it in for some quality time with Techstream for a tweak. Just a thought.


I disagree with your concern over wearing out the car. I bet it's just fine.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by ghostzfh

Honestly, I think the problem is due to the fact that my powertrain and engine got worn out badly from me learning how to drive manual on my car. All of those bad shifts and bad clutch engagements probably wore out the mechanical components compared to when the car was brand new. Not sure if anyone will agree with me on that.

i seriously doubt it.

i've never beaten on a car as much as i beat on this car every time i take it for a drive. i miss a shift and grind sycro's at least once for every 2 hours of driving, and that's a very generous assumption. it's probably more.. i genuinely expected my clutch to blow out by 40k miles. at 50k, it's still working, so anything after this is bonus time.

other than a squeaky clutch fork, my car drives the same now as the day it came off the lot, only difference being that i'm more confident wielding it now than i was back then.

[FR-S2GT86]

Originally Posted by soundman98

i seriously doubt it.

i've never beaten on a car as much as i beat on this car every time i take it for a drive. i miss a shift and grind sycro's at least once for every 2 hours of driving, and that's a very generous assumption. it's probably more.. i genuinely expected my clutch to blow out by 40k miles. at 50k, it's still working, so anything after this is bonus time.

other than a squeaky clutch fork, my car drives the same now as the day it came off the lot, only difference being that i'm more confident wielding it now than i was back then.

"Wielding it"......like a sword......Ohhhh yeah.