Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[Muskoka800]

It’s not a bad job with the help of a buddy to lower and raise the gearbox. Mind-you it mAy be awkward to access the upper bell housing bolts and slave cylinder bolts with the S/C in place. Mine was out at the time.
I choose the South Bend Stage 2 Daily and couldn’t be happier. You wouldn’t know it was upgraded. Functions and drives like stock.
Good Luck!

[menikmati]

Currently working on getting e-tuned and am having some difficulties.

In order to troubleshoot wonky fuel trims, I've been advised to clean my MAF sensor for potential fouling.

Cleaned MAF last night, flashed new tune revision today. Cold start idle was fine and gentle commuting for 20 minutes went without a hitch.

Started running through the rev range and did some 3rd gear WOT pulls from 3-7k. Immediately after doing the pulls, I notice fuel trims reaching -30% STFT (forgot what LTFT was) and when pulling to a stop, AFRs would run rich (~10) and the car would eventually stall out. Stalled a couple of times trying to get moving from a stop.

Pulled over, reflashed the tune and sat there for a couple of minutes. Fuel trims were less wonky at around ~15% but the car didn't sputter or hesitate when driving.

From what I can remember, MAF voltage and MAP readings were ~1.2-1.3V and 0.35-0.4 bar at idle, respectively.

I find it odd that the car would suddenly become basically undrivable after a couple of WOT pulls and I find it hard to believe that the MAF could be fouled that quickly, as it had been less than 24 hours and a total of 50 miles of driving since I cleaned it last. In hindsight, I should've continued datalogging when the car was acting up but I will attempt to replicate this again on my next datalogging session and post it here.

[tomm.brz]

it sounds like the full throttle pulls created an intake charge leak

[menikmati]

Managed to upset the car again after a single WOT pull.

Here is a short datalog where the car is struggling to idle.

https://datazap.me/u/menikmati/rough...g=0&data=17-38

I noticed that the MAP reading shoots up to about 1 bar every time the RPMs drop down to about 500, is this due to the engine RPMs dipping low enough to the point where there is not enough vacuum for the bypass actuator valve to open and allow uncompressed air in, or should there be enough vacuum at that RPM?

Starting from a stop resulted in the car bogging really badly and AFRs dip to 10. I just replaced the front oxygen sensor with an OEM unit so I think I can trust the AFR readings.

EDIT:

Forgot to mention I have also been getting warm/hot start problems with the engine starting and immediately dying.

[CSG Mike]

@menikmati your car is VERY rich at idle.

Are you caught up on maintenance? Any vacuum leaks? What kind of fuel are you using?

[menikmati]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

@menikmati your car is VERY rich at idle.

Are you caught up on maintenance? Any vacuum leaks? What kind of fuel are you using?

Car has around ~30k miles and has regular oil changes with transmission/diff fluid done as well.

No vacuum leaks that I can tell. I guess I could've damaged the intake manifold gaskets on install and can check those.

Been using 91 from Costco since day one of this car.

Weird thing is that the car behaves like this for about 10 minutes, I lug it home and it seems to work fine the next morning? It's only after I do a WOT pull that this happens.

[tomm.brz]

the map reading 1 bar absolute is normal because the ecu is opening throttle to recover idle and fighting the extreme richness at idle
ltft is extremely negative while being so, it definitely looks like a post-maf pre-throttle charge leak

[dpfarr]

When I first put my sc on, I tried getting a carb tune and Edelbrock said they hadn’t added 2020 in 2021 when I contacted them. Tried again out of curiosity, same thing. Definitely a bummer for anyone expecting to have a compliant system.

[menikmati]

Replaced the PCV valve yesterday, old one was gummed up and barely rattled.

Repeated the same driving scenarios as before (3rd gear 3-7k WOT pulls) and did some hot starts immediately afterwards. Car behaved fine and didn't hiccup, no pegging at 10.14 AFR or stumbling.

@CSG Mike I'm chomping at the bit for those Black Friday sales!

[Hurricane Nate]

Originally Posted by dpfarr

When I first put my sc on, I tried getting a carb tune and Edelbrock said they hadn’t added 2020 in 2021 when I contacted them. Tried again out of curiosity, same thing. Definitely a bummer for anyone expecting to have a compliant system.

I had the same experience. Bit of a bummer that it’s not CARB compliant by default, but I’ve never looked back from my CSG zack tune. Hopefully I don’t ever move California. Lucky me, my baby is still registered in New Mexico. Yee hah.

[sftateofmind]

My 2013 baby is stock and I'm finally looking to add some additional power. I'm located in California, curious which option I need to purchase. The one with the Ecutek or without?

Also, any recommendations on pre work to do to be ready for install? Open to suggested upgrades.

Car is maintained very well, new clutch recently, but no performance mods otherwise. Thank you

[menikmati]

Feeling a noticeable jerk when transitioning between closed loop and open loop. Open loop AFR is richer than commanded AFR (ex: AFR commanded = 13:1, AFR actual 11-12:1). Sometimes I can get the throttle in the sweet spot where it oscillates between closed and open loop and the car jerks back and forth. Sometimes the car will bog (10:1 AFR, no power) when coming off-idle and feeding in throttle. The band-aid for this is to rev the engine to 2k RPM before taking off and slipping the clutch so the engine doesn't bog down too much.

Here is a short snippet from when I'm in the sweet spot between CL/OL switching, you can see the engine RPM sort of pulsing/oscillating:

https://datazap.me/u/menikmati/12823...data=5-6-15-22

DI fuel quantity looks high, but what causes the ECU to do that?

I reverted back to an old tune (different company) and damn-near revved to 3k RPM on accident when taking off from a stop, a dramatic difference in throttle response and drivability at low speeds/partial throttle.

Scratching my head at what could be causing the drivability issues. Low/partial-throttle closed loop, AFR tracks great. Taking off from 1st gear feels completely random if it's going to bog.

[bigB]

Originally Posted by sftateofmind

My 2013 baby is stock and I'm finally looking to add some additional power. I'm located in California, curious which option I need to purchase. The one with the Ecutek or without?

Also, any recommendations on pre work to do to be ready for install? Open to suggested upgrades.

Car is maintained very well, new clutch recently, but no performance mods otherwise. Thank you

If you want to be CARB compliant you need the one with the Ecutek and the Edelbrock tune. Otherwise you need to revert to stock every two years to get your smog check.

I just put on a new clutch with a little stronger pressure plate. My stock clutch was still in good shape except the throwout bearing went bad, but I think the stock pressure plate is marginal for the car with the SC on it. When I would shift at redline from second to third, it took a bit too long to fully hook up than I would like. But if you just changed the clutch you can probably live with it for now.

I love the car with the SC, and I am just running the CARB tune. It brings the car to my magic number; a fun car needs to have weight/bhp < 10 lbs/hp.

[snowtaipan]

Hey all, I've got the old white coolant tank and it's leaking. I think the cap isn't sealing properly, and when I tighten it down fully it pops off. Anyone run into this, or swapped it?

I was looking at the tank from the CTSV, it's 250ml and has a similar plumbing setup, but they're discontinued.

Just curious if anyone had similar issues or found a solution.