Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[B T]

If anyone wants to separate their temp from the pressure and use two different MAP sensors, Ballenger has a good deal on a pre-wired pigtail.

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...oducts_id/1626

[FrickingReallySlow]

Originally Posted by B T

If anyone wants to separate their temp from the pressure and use two different MAP sensors, Ballenger has a good deal on a pre-wired pigtail.

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...oducts_id/1626

I have a leftover pigtail connector from my 2 MAP sensor setup, if someone want it PM me and just send me postage

[bigB]

Originally Posted by BirdTRD

I wouldn't spend any more time, energy or money until that bypass valve is replaced. They are notorious for leaking, especially the old style.

I agree.

It is well known that the bypass valve fails and causes these problems. Pull the hose off the back of the supercharger, and suck on it. If it won’t hold a vacuum, you know what the problem is and deal with it.

To put the new actuator on, you will need to take the SC off the car. You can change the existing one without doing so, but my experience was less than two years later the problem reoccurs. I recommend putting on the new bigger one.

[menikmati]

Replaced the bypass actuator valve, MAF o-ring and cleaned/dried the air filter.

I was able to install a majority of the bypass actuator valve by removing the throttle body and 3 vacuum lines off the snout of the supercharger and wedging my hand in there and using a long 1/4" extension and universal joint. I kept on dropping the nylon lock nuts and bolts for the bracket so I ended up temporarily unbolting the AC compressor to give myself more space.

The MAF o-ring was brittle and disintegrating, replaced it with a generously silicone-lubed fresh o-ring. Also used MAF cleaner to make sure no air filter oil/grease was on there.

Degreased the air filter and removed any sealing grease and let it dry.

Since then, I have not had the wonky erratic hunting idle on cold-starts and the throttle response has improved greatly. Driving in 1st gear is no longer jerky and throttle blipping for downshifts is now actually doable. I no longer feel any stumbling or hesitation when going from closed throttle to cracking it open. Even at speed, transitioning from coasting to feeding in a tiny amount of throttle, it is significantly smoother than before.

Before, I thought all the jankiness and hesitation was just a side-effect of having a supercharger, but now it feels damn near OEM-levels of drivability.

Thanks to all who provided input and advice!

[bigB]

Now you can drive the car with that edelbrock smile on your face!

[brandonblt2]

Anyone find a good replacement serpentine belt? The one supplied with the kit used to be a 6 rib, 99.5" Continental Elite Series Belt with Helicog. A few years ago Continental and Goodyear stop making the belt. And now only supply OE Tech Series belts which I have and it squeals a lot! Seems like the old belt is not in stock anywhere anymore.

[dpfarr]

I have a Continental OE Technology Series 4060995 6-Rib, 99.5" Multi-V Belt and never a squeak.

[ze12o]

long story short, ive been cleaning my MAF almost every 2 weeks due to MAF fouling. or what i thought it was it at least. my fuel trims would go wack after a few 20psig map pulls.
it would clear everytime i took off the sensor and cleared it. today i thought to change it. took it off and found some tears.
it was most likely leaking from high(er) vacuum pressure from those small tears.


did some searching/ metric to imperial conversions, and tried this:

https://www.mcmaster.com/90025K362/





4 days so far, and fuel trims (AFR) has been stable.

inspect those O-rings!

[menikmati]

Originally Posted by ze12o

long story short, ive been cleaning my MAF almost every 2 weeks due to MAF fouling. or what i thought it was it at least. my fuel trims would go wack after a few 20psig map pulls.
it would clear everytime i took off the sensor and cleared it. today i thought to change it. took it off and found some tears.
it was most likely leaking from high(er) vacuum pressure from those small tears.



4 days so far, and fuel trims (AFR) has been stable.

inspect those O-rings!

I never considered an x-ring profile o-ring.

...do you happen to have any spares.

[ze12o]

Originally Posted by menikmati

I never considered an x-ring profile o-ring.

...do you happen to have any spares.

yes. i have 99 spares at the moment.


PM me..

[dpfarr]

Something weird started happening in the last couple weeks. Noticed one weekend getting on the freeway revs were way too high for how fast I was going. Was thinking about it today and was about 75 mph in sixth and went to wot and redlined in seconds. Took a log this afternoon. I have no idea what this log shows but:

https://datazap.me/u/dpfarr/6th-wot?log=0&data=12

Additionally, from the on-ramp there was a light so I did a 1st through 6th.

https://datazap.me/u/dpfarr/log-1699...?log=0&data=12

[Muskoka800]

Sounds like your clutch is slipping.
Either it’s worn out or possibly fluid contaminated. Any dripping below?

[B T]

@dpfarr yeah, sounds like clutch slippage. stock clutch? changed clutch fluid in the last couple years?

[dpfarr]

Cool. Thanks guys. That’s what my tuner said. I have a stock clutch that I incidentally roasted last month driving on steep hills in the bay.

My dog just wiped my cash out with her cancer surgeries. I’ve never replaced a clutch. I’ve done pedal assembly and slave cylinder in my last car. I feel pretty proficient about following directions and adapting to complications, all of which is to say, a clutch job is reasonable to do in the course of a week in my garage?