Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[devtec]

Originally Posted by Decep

Probably just a good Zach tune, but i'm not sure what these driveability problems are you guys are talking about. Runs like stock even when grannying it around town, just get a big bump of torque at 2500 rpm.

Mine is one of the many edelbrock cars which had hesitation issues on throttle tip in. See my past threads, and threads of many others describing these issues.

For me in the end I think the culprit was a failing O2 sensor. But this was after a ton of trouble shooting with vacuum leaks, many tunes, etc.

Even after all this was sorted out, I still was experiencing iffy idle and subtle misses/dips on tip in. Enough to bother me.

Doing this MAP sensor relocation has completely eliminated that. Don't get me wrong, it was subtle. But now that it's gone, the difference is striking. I didn't know the car could be this smooth.

My experience at least.

[BA9092]

Great job, @toast and @devtec with the custom MAP relocations!

While I've installed the Edelbrock and the JR dual rad/oil cooler combo by myself in my garage, I'm sadly not as competent with the custom fabrications and installations.

I wish a company would devise a true, simple and complete MAP relocation kit for this application - CSG? DT?

[toast]

I have a full lathe and mill in my garage. I don't know why I didn't just machine a block of aluminum instead of welding up a box, would have been soooo much easier. Glad to see others are doing this.

My one concern when I did this was the temp. You won't get an accurate reading on that line, there is basically no flow, just pressure waves. Really should buy a second tmap with pigtail,install that in the intake runner and wire the pigtail into the other map wiring to get the temp from the sensor in the runner.

[BR-ZED]

Originally Posted by toast

I have a full lathe and mill in my garage. I don't know why I didn't just machine a block of aluminum instead of welding up a box, would have been soooo much easier. Glad to see others are doing this.

My one concern when I did this was the temp. You won't get an accurate reading on that line, there is basically no flow, just pressure waves. Really should buy a second tmap with pigtail,install that in the intake runner and wire the pigtail into the other map wiring to get the temp from the sensor in the runner.

@toast are you saying the boost gauge line (suggested by @jayjay06), or the T setup @devtec and you did, or both, would not have a good temperature reading?

Having not installed the kit yet, it sounds like the TMAP in question (the one you are relocating) is from the Edelbrock. Since this sensor should be somewhat standard... in terms of it's size / mounting mechanism.... is it reasonable to assume that somewhere out there, there is a similar manifold pressure port (maybe marketed for a different car) that would be plug and play with the Edelbrock TMAP sensor? In other words, @devtec bought one for a FRS/86/BRZ, but maybe there is one made for, say, Chevrolet, that matches the sensor specs more closely. I don't know how the TMAP mounts (it looks like it sits in the diftech hole, while being held in place by a single bolt) so I don't really know what to search for, but just throwing it out there.

@devtec what exactly did the machine shop do? Did they drill out the hole only, or was rethreading also necessary (it sounds like it was just the former after studying the diftech pictures)? Would that be possible to do with a hand drill, vice, and potentially a tap and die kit? Or were their modifications only something you could do w/ machine shop equipment?

I remember years ago I made an O2 mechanical fix for my 02 WRX which basically was 2 spark plug arrestors screwed together with the center part drilled out. I did that in a vice with a drill. It took a while (steel) but it did work...

@devtec I'm also curious how you plan to use the amazon part you linked, will the port for the boost gauge accept a hose and then the diftech (black piece) thread directly onto the "amazon" part as you discard the blue piece from the diftech?

Also it's really confusing that the part devtec is using is the diftech, I have had to carefully edit this post

And sorry for the questions I'm trying to understand everything using only the pictures, again, not having installed the kit yet.

[BR-ZED]

Originally Posted by BirdTRD

I do vaguely remember but I'm old and my memory sucks so there's that.
Let me know if you need any assistance with it, I'd be happy to help.

Thanks, I may take you up on that, if things don't go well. Plan to read the entire install manual thoroughly and research any questions I have in detail before starting. I am pretty sure I read the entire manual a year or two ago, and left it feeling reasonably comfortable save 2 or 3 steps.

Off the top of my mind the things I am most worried about are:
1. Getting the SC / intake manifold seated properly w/out damaging the red gaskets
2. Bleeding the clutch (that step seemed to be lacking in details a bit, when i skimmed the instructions - having never done a clutch bleed before)
3. priming the system's water pump

[BR-ZED]

Which would be better for the o-rings in this kit install, (injector o-rings, manifold gasket):

Silicone lube vs. o-ring lube, or something else?

I read the last 20 minutes or so various websites and it seems everyone has a different opinion, some say oil, some say Vaseline, some say silicone lube.

It seems the grease would get messy, but maybe hold the manifold gasket on better during install (someone a while back mentioned doing this). I feel like it would be harder to judge how much to apply with a grease, and that the o-ring lube might be easier to not "over do it". I would hate to put on too much.

[toast]

I would use engine assembly lube for the manifold gasket. Run a tiny bead in the recess in the supercharger manifold and press the gasket into that. It is very sticky so it will hold it in place. Then wipe the excess over the top of the gasket so that it slides on the heads easily when you have to position the supercharger.

The tmap sensor is just a standard Bosch unit. Get the part number off the sensor itself and order a second if you want another one.

No matter how you remotely mount the tmap for pressure that line will not get an accurate temperature measurement because there is very little air flow in that volume. In the runner there is nothing but airflow so a temp measurement there will show exactly what the intake temp is.

[toast]

Also, I'm assuming you have the new 2 bolt bypass valve in your kit? If not I would not install anything until you pick up that part and put it on the charger.

[Horrid_Funk]

Originally Posted by toast

I would use engine assembly lube for the manifold gasket. Run a tiny bead in the recess in the supercharger manifold and press the gasket into that. It is very sticky so it will hold it in place. Then wipe the excess over the top of the gasket so that it slides on the heads easily when you have to position the supercharger.

The tmap sensor is just a standard Bosch unit. Get the part number off the sensor itself and order a second if you want another one.

No matter how you remotely mount the tmap for pressure that line will not get an accurate temperature measurement because there is very little air flow in that volume. In the runner there is nothing but airflow so a temp measurement there will show exactly what the intake temp is.

The temperature and pressure are just 0-5V analog signals, right? It would be pretty easy to run power to both sensors and pull the temp signal from the runner and the pressure signal from the bypass valve port. If the temperature ranges are the same for both sensors you should be good to go without adjusting the tune.

[Kodename47]

Why get a second TMAP? Why not just an IAT sensor, likely to be cheaper....

[jayjay06]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

Thanks, I may take you up on that, if things don't go well. Plan to read the entire install manual thoroughly and research any questions I have in detail before starting. I am pretty sure I read the entire manual a year or two ago, and left it feeling reasonably comfortable save 2 or 3 steps.

Off the top of my mind the things I am most worried about are:
1. Getting the SC / intake manifold seated properly w/out damaging the red gaskets
2. Bleeding the clutch (that step seemed to be lacking in details a bit, when i skimmed the instructions - having never done a clutch bleed before)
3. priming the system's water pump

1. So I swung it into place without gaskets on, did a dry fit, then lifted it about 3-4 inches. I greased the the gaskets with the super lube mentioned before and then sort of "felt" it into place. I used a mirror to do a quick check and then had my son lower the rope as I guided it in. As far as I know so far no leaks (tuning is going well).
2. Clutch: I was very quick on swapping the cable and tried to prevent too much air getting in (and fluid out). Then to bleed if you have a clear tube, but it on end of bleed valve into a cup. Have someone pump clutch and hold down. When down, open the valve...fluid comes out and clutch goes down to the floor. Close valve, pull up clutch and repeat...pump hold open valve. Do it until you don't see air in the line. If no tube, you can just do it into a cup or towel and do the cycle 5-10 times. Make sure reservoir doesn't go below min line.
3. I tried using the no spill funnel, but of course mine didn't come with the right attachment to fit the surge. So I just turned key to on to get pump running and kept filling it up. It sucked it down a couple times, so just started over. I'm sure I had a little air in there, but if you read line 8 of the purge, it notes over time the air will escape into the surge. I had to add coolant after a couple times running, so that tells me air is purging.

[BR-ZED]

Originally Posted by toast

Also, I'm assuming you have the new 2 bolt bypass valve in your kit? If not I would not install anything until you pick up that part and put it on the charger.

Need to determine that. Planning on checking it once I unpack it, but need to first clear room in the garage and set up a good work area.

Would you also recommend engine assembly line for the injector o rings, or one if the products I linked?

@jayjay06 thanks for the tips. Still on the fence about the pulley. Wish my son was old enough to help. He's strong, but he still can't sit up or crawl yet so can't go that route :-p

[jayjay06]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

Need to determine that. Planning on checking it once I unpack it, but need to first clear room in the garage and set up a good work area.

Would you also recommend engine assembly line for the injector o rings, or one if the products I linked?

@jayjay06 thanks for the tips. Still on the fence about the pulley. Wish my son was old enough to help. He's strong, but he still can't sit up or crawl yet so can't go that route :-p

How much does the kid weigh? I think the pulley is a 5 to 1, so need about 20lbs... Stick him in a car seat, tie said car seat to pulley. Don't forget pictures!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[BR-ZED]

Ha! That might work. The SC isn't 100 lbs is it? I thought it was more like 30 to 50 lbs. Heard the entire kit was about +60 lbs.