Front camber? Noob

[wbradley]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

I dont want to or plan to go any lower. I love my car how it sits now. Aside from neg rear cAmber.

Just so youre informed i wasnt eyeballing camber. It came back from alignment at -2.6 pass side and -.9 driver.

I thought id be ok with the trd coils aswell but i guess ordering some rear lcas are what i should do. I cant handle looking at one tire tucked under fender and one tire sticking out of fender. Looks so bad. Im sure it will effect performance too

I wont be running plates. And THANK YOU for understanding the word excentuate haha.

Youre saying i shouldnt buy new lcas?


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If the two sides are way off as is, there is something that is bent that needs to be replaced. Rear LCA's are only a solution if the stock LCA is bent as you might as well go aftermarket then. Otherwise the damaged part needs to be addressed or the discrepancy otherwise explained.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

First off. I dont get why were talking about the front struts. And youre not reading what i said!!! I said i CAN (not cant) see how bend in front strut would directly effect camber?!

It was brought up to explain the difference between the front and rear suspension, and why a bent shock won't cause what you're experiencing in the rear.

Originally Posted by Norinradd

Im not saying the springs CAUSED it. Immsaying they EXCENTUATED it. As in with the car having LESS wheel gap. Its EASIER. To see camber variance.

Ding is on side with more negative camber.

I noticed before alignment

The word you're looking for is accentuated.

I'm a little surprised you can visibly see the difference in camber with your wheel specs, it's about a 1/4" difference side to side at the top of the tire.

Originally Posted by Norinradd

Yes i tried the push and pull texhnique when i re did the rears yesterday seems maybe a bit better. Hard to say

Next time use a level app on your phone and measure before/after. Don't trust them as anything beyond relative measurements, but they'll be good at telling you if you got any benefit from the attempt.

Originally Posted by Norinradd

I am ordering spc lcas and will be installin before i get another alignment. Also some whiteline bolts.

I searced on google for ft86 speed factory vendor as the search function in this forum is terrible.

The search function isn't terrible, you just have to know what to search for. There's also this very useful site called google that will find WAY more information for you.

Originally Posted by Norinradd

I found ft86motorsports? Thats the candian vendor? 286$ shipped for lcas is really good!

That's the one.

Originally Posted by Norinradd

Ill measure ride height after work

Make sure the car is on a really flat surface, both left to right and front to back.

Originally Posted by Norinradd

I dont want to or plan to go any lower. I love my car how it sits now. Aside from neg rear cAmber.

Just so youre informed i wasnt eyeballing camber. It came back from alignment at -2.6 pass side and -.9 driver.

Were you sitting in the car while it was being aligned? If not, it's not an accurate measurement for how the car is normally driven. Depending on your weight it could be off a few tenths of a degree.

Originally Posted by Norinradd

I thought id be ok with the trd coils aswell but i guess ordering some rear lcas are what i should do. I cant handle looking at one tire tucked under fender and one tire sticking out of fender. Looks so bad. Im sure it will effect performance too

There's no way the difference is that extreme from 1.5* unless there's another issue at play as well. Like I've said a few times, the difference at the top of the tire should be in the 1/4" range.

How much do you know about the previous history of the car? Any accident repairs at all?

If the subframe is shifted, it could cause more poke on one side even without the camber difference.

Originally Posted by Norinradd

Youre saying i shouldnt buy new lcas?

He's saying that the camber on a typical car from a ~1" drop doesn't really require any correction. If you want to keep the balance closer to stock, or want closer cross camber, then you'll need LCA's to correct it.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

Man i said i had a dent in running board on side with more camber and you acted like i was an idiot for not assuming that impact could have changed camber.

Then i agree with you and you act like im an idiot for agreeing with you.

What
The
Fuck. I swear ur juat trolling and enjoy getting ppl fired up like tcoat

Absolutely zero trolling nor fuckery from me. I am being as direct as I can.

I am reasonably certain that something on your suspension or your subframe is bent. Not shifted, bent.

A shift in the subframe would show up in both wheels. If we were to spend some quality time discussing the topic in general, you would benefit greatly from understanding the whole thing.

Your improved understanding and correct use of terminology would then enable you to figure out with reasonable certainty if, and how the suspension was damaged.

[wparsons]

I'd be willing to bet that the problem side is actually the side with -0.9*, not the side with -2.5. With a 1" drop I'm at -2.5*R and -2.6*L (with me in the driver's seat). Even with 1/4" less drop, it should be closer to -2.5* than 0.9*.

[Norinradd]

Took the car to the only good alignment man i know in lowermainland here. Dialed in the rear to -1.7 and -2.0. Guys a wizard. Found some wiggle room within the bolts.


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[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

Guys a wizard. Found some wiggle room within the bolts.

That's an understatement, if he can consistently find 0.8/0.5 degrees of camber adjustment off of 'wiggle room' on an 86 he'd be a rich man.

People would legit fly him out across the continent to have him align the car if that's the case.

Glad to hear your car is all sorted now, wish we could know how it was off so badly but some mysteries remain unsolved.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by wparsons

I'd be willing to bet that the problem side is actually the side with -0.9*, not the side with -2.5. With a 1" drop I'm at -2.5*R and -2.6*L (with me in the driver's seat). Even with 1/4" less drop, it should be closer to -2.5* than 0.9*.

Yup. We haven't confirmed that the -0.9 side corresponds to the body damage. I had that on deck for OP but wasn't going to make any assumptions for fear of jumping to conclusions and taking shortcuts.

Anyhow, glad it's worked out.

[Norinradd]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

That's an understatement, if he can consistently find 0.8/0.5 degrees of camber adjustment off of 'wiggle room' on an 86 he'd be a rich man.

People would legit fly him out across the continent to have him align the car if that's the case.

Glad to hear your car is all sorted now, wish we could know how it was off so badly but some mysteries remain unsolved.

I think the fountain tire that first did it must have made some mistakes.

The guy today who i wanted to bring it to saturday. His initial reading i think was 2.2 and 1.4. Somewhere round there. Not as off as the fountain tire job at 2.6 and .9.

So no lcas. Yay. And he says i have more than enough room for degree or two in the fromt.


Anyone familiar with grinding the front spring perches down? as i noticed they are the closest thing to the tire, not the spring itself. Have people done that? Any feedback?


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[Norinradd]

Anybody know a good video or article explaining these macpherson struts and double wishbones


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[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

Anyone familiar with grinding the front spring perches down? as i noticed they are the closest thing to the tire, not the spring itself. Have people done that? Any feedback?


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Don't, there's a lip on the edge to keep the spring seated properly. If you want more clearance there buy coilovers.

[Norinradd]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Don't, there's a lip on the edge to keep the spring seated properly. If you want more clearance there buy coilovers.

Nah inwas just wondering. I understand a spring seat. Haha. Just theres room there to be grinded out.

Btw what is the whole 16mm vs 14mm thing.


16mm whitelines allow for 1.5 degree like they advertise. Or do you need 14mm to get that much?!

14mm bolt in a 16mm hole sounds retarded to me. Just a show car with ridiculous camber


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