Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[Side]

Installation was successful, for both the Edelbrock and the Jackson Racing DROC.

No real issues or setbacks during install, but my belt hopped a rib and started shredding on the 3rd or 4th drive. Brother and I swapped belts today, took it on a test drive, and it's still seated correctly with no shredding. Ordered another backup belt to keep in the trunk just in case.

If it happens again, we'll do a more thorough diagnostic to find out why. Most likely candidates being the tensioner. If it doesn't happen again, we'll assume it was a defect in the 1st belt that we didn't notice during install.

Edit: After a few more drive cycles, and slowly getting more aggressive as my tuner allows, belt is still seated correctly with no visible wear.

[nashcarr]

^^^ This type of supercharger has VERY LITTLE whine from what I have read...

[BR-ZED]

Just finished my install, minus priming the coolant systems and checking for leaks etc.

The instructions mention to turn the ignition to on to check for leaks (especially fuel) and to purge the supercharger coolant with the no spill funnel. Seems kind of like a lot to do at once. Does it make sense to try to do one, then the other? As in,

Remove fuel pump fuse, while priming intercooler coolant system?

Or

Disconnect water pump, check fuel system for leaks, then connect water pump and prime intercooler system?

The instructions have been great up to this point, it just seemed a little disjointed at the end there...

Then beyond that there is the coolant for the car itself. I haven't done that for this car yet but in general you rev up the engine to get the coolant flowing and also get it up to temp to get the thermostat to open and cycle into the engine. I didn't want to rev up too much as I just wanted to take it easy to get an initial log for the tuner, to make sure all the sensors look good. Any tips here?

[BirdTRD]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

Just finished my install, minus priming the coolant systems and checking for leaks etc.

The instructions mention to turn the ignition to on to check for leaks (especially fuel) and to purge the supercharger coolant with the no spill funnel. Seems kind of like a lot to do at once. Does it make sense to try to do one, then the other? As in,

Remove fuel pump fuse, while priming intercooler coolant system?

Or

Disconnect water pump, check fuel system for leaks, then connect water pump and prime intercooler system?

The instructions have been great up to this point, it just seemed a little disjointed at the end there...

Then beyond that there is the coolant for the car itself. I haven't done that for this car yet but in general you rev up the engine to get the coolant flowing and also get it up to temp to get the thermostat to open and cycle into the engine. I didn't want to rev up too much as I just wanted to take it easy to get an initial log for the tuner, to make sure all the sensors look good. Any tips here?

Nah, just fire it up and watch for any obvious problems like spraying fuel or coolant, then hone in on the fuel system. For the cooling systems, you'll need to get all the air out of them first then give them time to build pressure to make sure they stay leak free.

[BirdTRD]

For comparison sake, I some logs I took this morning. The first was with my TMAP relocation block installed in the BPV vacuum line, the second run was with nothing installed for a base line, then the third one was with the D-box installed. I also extracted the MAP info from each log and created an overlay.

They are all 3rd gear (AT) WOT, E80 fuel and 3" SC pulley.

Block https://datazap.me/u/birdtrd/3rd-wot...og=0&data=6-43
Nothing https://datazap.me/u/birdtrd/3rd-wot...log=0&data=3-7
Dbox https://datazap.me/u/birdtrd/3rd-wot...log=0&data=3-7
Overlay https://datazap.me/u/birdtrd/map-ove...g=0&data=0-1-7
In the overlay log, they are appended with "block", "dbox" and "raw" (for nothing installed)

[BR-ZED]

Well filled up fluids and then turned car ignition to on (just electrical) and noticed a slight fuel drip under that fuel banjo. Damn. Suggestions?

What do I need to do to depressurize to replace the crush washer? Anything special? Or maybe I should torque it down just a little more and try again?

The instructions depressurize by pulling the fuse and running the engine. I obviously haven't run the engine yet and don't really want to start it with a known fuel leak.

So is there an alternative in terms of what lines I should take off and the order in which to do so? I want sure how much pressure was in the lines and don't want gas everywhere. I read about relieving pressure by opening the gas cap but wasn't sure if that applied to this car.

[BA9092]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

Well filled up fluids and then turned car ignition to on (just electrical) and noticed a slight fuel drip under that fuel banjo. Damn. Suggestions?

What do I need to do to depressurize to replace the crush washer? Anything special? Or maybe I should torque it down just a little more and try again?

The instructions depressurize by pulling the fuse and running the engine. I obviously haven't run the engine yet and don't really want to start it with a known fuel leak.

I had the same issue.

Pull the fuel pump fuse and try to start the engine. It usually doesn't start anyway, but it removes any pressure in the lines. Then you should be able to unbolt the fuel banjo without much fuel spraying out.

I tried various washer combinations. However, the issue was finally solved with an OEM washer from Subaru (the two washers that are bound together) and properly torquing to spec.

The part is called 'fuel pipe gasket', part number 17555AA040.

[BR-ZED]

How did you torque it to spec? There was no way any of my torque wrenches were getting in that super tight area, so I had to do it by feel with a ratcheting box end. I just checked and it seems pretty damn tight... I'm sure I could cinch it down but don't want to damage the threads.

[BA9092]

I used a convoluted setup with various extensions and attachments since my torque wrench is 24" long and 3/8" drive. I know it's pretty tight down there, but I was able to get the specified 23 ft.lbs (31 N.m)

[BA9092]

@BR-ZED... I also had a crowfoot wrench set which was really helpful in those tight places where a normal socket wouldn't fit.

[BR-ZED]

Originally Posted by BA9092

I used a convoluted setup with various extensions and attachments since my torque wrench is 24" long and 3/8" drive. I know it's pretty tight down there, but I was able to get the specified 23 ft.lbs (31 N.m)

Thought about that. I recently borrowed a universal pivot socket from a friend for something else and forgot to try that. I'll give it a shot.

Other concern. I used an EPAuto no spill funnel. It fit the radiator but of course not the surge tank. So filled the surge manually. When ignition was set to on the pump sucked down the fluid but didn't turn on after that. Added a little more coolant which I believe went down but then i filled the reservoir and nothing. I don't hear the pump. Is it audible and continuous? It seemed to only turn on for a brief time.

[BA9092]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

Thought about that. I recently borrowed a universal pivot socket from a friend for something else and forgot to try that. I'll give it a shot.

Other concern. I used an EPAuto no spill funnel. It fit the radiator but of course not the surge tank. So filled the surge manually. When ignition was set to on the pump sucked down the fluid but didn't turn on after that. Added a little more coolant which I believe went down but then i filled the reservoir and nothing. I don't hear the pump. Is it audible and continuous? It seemed to only turn on for a brief time.

I also had the same issue since I couldn't fill the reservoir full enough before it pumped itself dry and stopped the pump. Eventually I got it full and the pump ran continuously.

However, I first had the bumper off the entire time until I felt the car was running optimally, so I had access to the water pump below the reservoir. I initially unplugged the wire harness from it and replugged it back in every time to restart the pump/cycle. But someone here suggested just recycling through the ignition - turning the car completely off then back to ACC.

It finally worked once I added enough coolant to keep the reservoir from running low.

[BR-ZED]

Ah cool thanks. Yeah bumper is off. Going to do the first few drives with no bumper around the neighborhood until everything is sorted out. Putting all that crap on is a pain in the butt.

[BA9092]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

Ah cool thanks. Yeah bumper is off. Going to do the first few drives with no bumper around the neighborhood until everything is sorted out. Putting all that crap on is a pain in the butt.

Good idea.

Yeah, the bumper was the last and final thing I did. Granted it's not that hard to do, but I only wanted to do it once to avoid the tabs on the sides warping or breaking resulting in the infamous 'bumper sag'