Blown engine, suggestions?

[ShadeShot]

Facts:
2015 BRZ
Less that 70k miles.
Has had a JDL uel header and tune for about 40k of those miles.

What happened:
Was driving down the highway. Felt a subtle loss of power so gave it a bit more gas. Didn't get any more power. Put it in neutral. Engine stopped. Pulled to the side of the highway. Will not start and makes some bad sounds when trying. Mechanic says metal in the engine oil.

My thoughts:
This sucks and I hate the FA20.
I do not think I would be happy with a completely stock engine.
Should I replace the engine and sell it?
Should I sell it with a blown engine?
Any other thoughts?

[allowe]

How do you know it’s a blown motor? We need more info. Does it crank? Try to do a proper test. Check for spark, vacuum leaks and fuel

I freaking love my car.. but that engine really sucks. You can’t mod it without forged internals. I got a similar setup to yours too. Keep us updated


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[TommyW]

Originally Posted by ShadeShot

Facts:
2015 BRZ
Less that 70k miles.
Has had a JDL uel header and tune for about 40k of those miles.

What happened:
Was driving down the highway. Felt a subtle loss of power so gave it a bit more gas. Didn't get any more power. Put it in neutral. Engine stopped. Pulled to the side of the highway. Will not start and makes some bad sounds when trying. Mechanic says metal in the engine oil.

My thoughts:
This sucks and I hate the FA20.
I do not think I would be happy with a completely stock engine.
Should I replace the engine and sell it?
Should I sell it with a blown engine?
Any other thoughts?

Selling it and you won’t get squat for it then you still have to buy another car. You can get an IAG short block with all the issues fixed. Better oiling, better bearings, rod and pistons and closer tolerances. The Stage 1 is rated for 550 hp so staying NA and you have a motor that is bulletproof for the most part. You’ll spend some dough but you’ll have a lot of reliability. It’s about 2500 more than a new stock short block but worth it IMO

[ShadeShot]

It cranks, but not easy. A lot of body movement when cranking. Plus, the metal shavings in the oil. Not good.

I have definitely considered the IAG motor.

After doing more research, it kinda seems like a spun bearing. It wasn't like a catastrophic explosion. More just loss of power, followed by engine shutdown, followed by no start, followed by metal in the oil.

If it is a spun bearing and I am just out of warranty, any chance subaru would replace the engine given this is somewhat of a known issue?

[Capt Spaulding]

Originally Posted by ShadeShot

It cranks, but not easy. A lot of body movement when cranking. Plus, the metal shavings in the oil. Not good.

I have definitely considered the IAG motor.

After doing more research, it kinda seems like a spun bearing. It wasn't like a catastrophic explosion. More just loss of power, followed by engine shutdown, followed by no start, followed by metal in the oil.

If it is a spun bearing and I am just out of warranty, any chance subaru would replace the engine given this is somewhat of a known issue?

I wouldn't think it likely, but it can't hurt to ask. The worst they can do is say no. I guess they could laugh at you and send out a hit squad, but that too, is unlikely.

Good luck.

[TommyW]

Originally Posted by ShadeShot

If it is a spun bearing and I am just out of warranty, any chance subaru would replace the engine given this is somewhat of a known issue?

Not a chance in hell. Those lower end issues suck and I'd never replace the block with stock when there is an alternative for a little more money.

[Pat]

Has anyone here driven the base IAG engine? How does it feel? Can you tell any difference from a stock OEM engine?
I know in theory it should be more reliable. But who here actually owns one? How many miles do you have on it? What has the ownership experience been like? Any different than the stock engine?

[ShadeShot]

My only hesitation with the IAG is that I want to turbo eventually. So the 10:1 would be good. However, can't afford the turbo at the moment, so would have to go with 12:1.

[DarkPira7e]

Just get a used engine from eBay and get it put in. Part out stuff from your old one and enjoy the car.

You can turbo on any compression you like. Just because it has reinforced internal parts doesn't mean it has to be different.

If high compression were so bad, how do people make between 350 and 500whp on stock block? Yeah, it'll be safer (tune wise) to have lower compression. But if people do 400whp on stock block, I don't see why you should doom yourself to lower compression on a stronger engine.

[TommyW]

Originally Posted by Pat

Has anyone here driven the base IAG engine? How does it feel? Can you tell any difference from a stock OEM engine?
I know in theory it should be more reliable. But who here actually owns one? How many miles do you have on it? What has the ownership experience been like? Any different than the stock engine?

I doubt you'll feel a difference in performance except for maybe smoother due to the closer piston\cylinder tolerances. the main thing is the much improved bottom end. 99.9% of the IAG buyers go FI. With NA I'm guessing that we'll see a lot of trouble free track miles.

I pick the car up Friday and will review. The reliability issues have stemmed from the sub par stock oiling and weak bearing, rod and piston designs. I just don't think guys staying NA had the wherewithal to spend the money on IAG which I think is a mistake. You spend a shitload of money on a new stock motor then expect it to be reliable when it proved not to be.

[allowe]

Originally Posted by DarkPira7e

Just get a used engine from eBay and get it put in. Part out stuff from your old one and enjoy the car.

You can turbo on any compression you like. Just because it has reinforced internal parts doesn't mean it has to be different.

If high compression were so bad, how do people make between 350 and 500whp on stock block? Yeah, it'll be safer (tune wise) to have lower compression. But if people do 400whp on stock block, I don't see why you should doom yourself to lower compression on a stronger engine.

Not doubting you but any chance you can link me to anyone running 400whp on a stock block? I’ve heard of people blowing up engines bone stock. As far as I know, around 280whp is the safe maximum amount to run boost at. I could be wrong tho.


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[DarkPira7e]

Originally Posted by allowe

Not doubting you but any chance you can link me to anyone running 400whp on a stock block? I’ve heard of people blowing up engines bone stock. As far as I know, around 280whp is the safe maximum amount to run boost at. I could be wrong tho.


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As far as I know, Ptuning and Full Blown did for some time.
@FRS_JUSTIN and @Sportsguy83 @BRZoomTX

Something will give eventually- I had my stock block at 330whp and my timing chain let go. Even a built block can have problems. The opposite is true, too- there is no SAFE level of power above stock, it's a huge cocktail of potential weaknesses anytime you modify a car, that's the fun!
I'm not saying stock block is super strong by any means, but there's nothing inherently wrong with that compression ratio- the rods just seek sunlight

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by TommyW

I doubt you'll feel a difference in performance except for maybe smoother due to the closer piston\cylinder tolerances. the main thing is the much improved bottom end. 99.9% of the IAG buyers go FI. With NA I'm guessing that we'll see a lot of trouble free track miles.

I pick the car up Friday and will review. The reliability issues have stemmed from the sub par stock oiling and weak bearing, rod and piston designs. I just don't think guys staying NA had the wherewithal to spend the money on IAG which I think is a mistake. You spend a shitload of money on a new stock motor then expect it to be reliable when it proved not to be.

Actually forged engines typically are more noisy until they reach operating temps. Usually forged pistons have a larger piston to wall clearance since they expand more then cast or hyper-whatever-it-is-called alloy pistons. Even then, depending on the build they may have more clearance based on application.

[ls1ac]

Just a question---what are the metal pieces in the oil? That can tell you a lot about what failed. Big, little, color, magnetic.