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06-09-2015, 04:07 AM | #71 |
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Dumb question and I will probably be flamed for asking. So based on what I've been reading, the SBC camber bolt (14mm) goes in bottom hole. I tried this, and it seems like I didn't get any results for negative camber. Well not compared to if I put that 14mm bolt in the top mounting hole. I'm on Tein's and these coilers don't have a notched hole. Should I get a 14mm and put it in the lower hole, or place it in the top hole? Second, should I purchase a 16mm bolt for that top hole to adjust camber? I've searched but can't seem to get a definite answer for what I'm trying to do. Currently running 255/35s on an 18x9.5 +38 wheel, and poke just a tad.
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06-09-2015, 08:28 PM | #72 | |
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Last edited by solidONE; 06-09-2015 at 08:39 PM. |
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07-12-2015, 01:30 PM | #73 |
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@solidONE how have your camber bolts been holding up? I have whitelines 16 mm upper camber bolts and I'm thinking about buying the spc 14 mm lower bolts for more negative camber but I'm not pulling the trigger until I know running both top and bottom camber bolts is 100% safe/reliable
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07-13-2015, 03:27 AM | #74 | |
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10-01-2015, 03:09 AM | #75 |
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So I've been combing through the forums and looking for some BRZ alignment specs for OE crash bolts... I know I can do -1.3 to -1.5 degrees of camber but curious if anyone had some bulletproof advice about toe and caster as well. I'm essentially looking for BRZ specific alignments (the FRS does have slightly stiffer rears and that helps a little with the understeer that I'm trying to get rid of) that will be best for auto-x and random track duty. I don't mind sacrificing a little tiny bit of tire wear but I don't want to just start burning through tires 15% faster or anything either. Anyone have some advice, or a point in the right direction? Thanks in advance for any tips haha
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10-01-2015, 03:32 AM | #76 | |
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