Front camber adjustment.

[Wepeel]

Originally Posted by solidONE

The lower bolt hole uses a 14mm diameter bolt while the upper bolt is 16mm. I'm not sure if they make a crash bolt for the lower hole.

I don't like the OE crash bolts because they are just a smaller diameter bolt than the one they replace. Only the tension from the bolt and nut being tightened is holding the strut/ knuckle in position. So a small impact at the wheels may cause the position of the knuckle to shift, changing your alignment setting. The eccentric bolt does not leave any slop in the bolt hole. Though, aside from the eccentric cam on the bolt, the bolt it self is of a smaller diameter. Smaller than the OE crash bolt so complete failure after a lager impact is more likely with the eccentric bolt.

Thanks - sounds like the lower bolt might be the same as the factory crash bolt (I should have just removed the lower bolt and looked at it when I installed the crash bolt - but I didn't think of it. Just loosened it. ).

I've run aftermarket SPC cammed camber bolts in my WRX and STI - they were very strong, despite the thinner diameter and lower torque spec. I got in an accident where the top of the front passenger wheel was impacted inward badly - the strut bent, but the camber bolt didnt' slip .

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Wepeel

I've run aftermarket SPC cammed camber bolts in my WRX and STI - they were very strong, despite the thinner diameter and lower torque spec. I got in an accident where the top of the front passenger wheel was impacted inward badly - the strut bent, but the camber bolt didnt' slip .

That is very reassuring. Talk about "bang for the buck" camber!

[ayau]

Originally Posted by solidONE

The lower bolt hole uses a 14mm diameter bolt while the upper bolt is 16mm. I'm not sure if they make a crash bolt for the lower hole.

I don't like the OE crash bolts because they are just a smaller diameter bolt than the one they replace. Only the tension from the bolt and nut being tightened is holding the strut/ knuckle in position. So a small impact at the wheels may cause the position of the knuckle to shift, changing your alignment setting. The eccentric bolt does not leave any slop in the bolt hole. Though, aside from the eccentric cam on the bolt, the bolt it self is of a smaller diameter. Smaller than the OE crash bolt so complete failure after a lager impact is more likely with the eccentric bolt.

The clamping force on the bolt is very strong, and you have 2 bolts holding the wheel hub in place.

Wheels use the same concept. The lug nuts provide the clamping force to hold the wheel in place.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by ayau

The clamping force on the bolt is very strong, and you have 2 bolts holding the wheel hub in place.

Wheels use the same concept. The lug nuts provide the clamping force to hold the wheel in place.

I'm sure it is. I've had a friend with '05 WRX use factory crash bolts installed at the alignment shop who regularly does performance alignments. After throwing his car around some turns following his alignment, his setting were off from the original settings.

Lug nuts, with their taper, do not have any slop after tightening. Crash bolts still have space for them shift into after tightening.

[Figo]

Did the problem solved?

Originally Posted by solidONE

I just added the second set of bolts this past weekend. Made some rough measurements. I was able to get 2.6* at the front with 1" drop and 2 sets of SPC bolts. Surprisingly little bit of toe in after the mod, about 1/32". If you run wider wheel/tire you might want to check your clearances. I added a 5mm spacer to my 245/40/17 @+45 wheels and still have clearance issues. Camber plates will not have this problem.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Figo

Did the problem solved?

There is only about 3-4mm of clearance with the 245's. I've switched to my stock wheels for now and there is no clearance issue without using specers. I could get some 8mm spacers for the 245's, or just deal with it. I will post pictures of the amount of clearance later.

[Figo]

Seem like these bolts work better than top mounts. lol.
Cuz top mounts always have problems.

Originally Posted by solidONE

There is only about 3-4mm of clearance with the 245's. I've switched to my stock wheels for now and there is no clearance issue without using specers. I could get some 8mm spacers for the 245's, or just deal with it. I will post pictures of the amount of clearance later.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by solidONE

The lower bolt hole uses a 14mm diameter bolt while the upper bolt is 16mm. I'm not sure if they make a crash bolt for the lower hole.

I don't like the OE crash bolts because they are just a smaller diameter bolt than the one they replace. Only the tension from the bolt and nut being tightened is holding the strut/ knuckle in position. So a small impact at the wheels may cause the position of the knuckle to shift, changing your alignment setting. The eccentric bolt does not leave any slop in the bolt hole. Though, aside from the eccentric cam on the bolt, the bolt it self is of a smaller diameter. Smaller than the OE crash bolt so complete failure after a lager impact is more likely with the eccentric bolt.

That's why I'm cautious about recommending camber bolts.

However, if you've got lateral impacts on the wheel, you've got bigger problems to worry about.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Figo

Seem like these bolts work better than top mounts. lol.
Cuz top mounts always have problems.

There are drawbacks from using these vs camber plates. First is that these bolts will be weaker than the factory sized bolts. Second is the change in the suspension geometry from changing the position of the strut relative to the to the knuckle, while top mounted plates will retain the strut-to-knuckle position.

I'm sure if you use some quality camber plates that have been proven to be problem free you will avoid the common issues with aftermarket camber plates. But then, there is a price to pay for this quality. That's where the beauty of these camber bolts begin to show. Bang...., for yo buck, yo!

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

That's why I'm cautious about recommending camber bolts.

However, if you've got lateral impacts on the wheel, you've got bigger problems to worry about.

When I say "a small impact" I'm talking about hitting berms, pot holes or divots on the road during hard cornering. This is a common occurrence in socal roads and tracks.

[Figo]

I am thinking to get Hotchkis camber plates and swift lowing spring. lol. And maybe a set of Cusco LCA.

Originally Posted by solidONE

There are drawbacks from using these vs camber plates. First is that these bolts will be weaker than the factory sized bolts. Second is the change in the suspension geometry from changing the position of the strut relative to the to the knuckle, while top mounted plates will retain the strut-to-knuckle position.

I'm sure if you use some quality camber plates that have been proven to be problem free you will avoid the common issues with aftermarket camber plates. But then, there is a price to pay for this quality. That's where the beauty of these camber bolts begin to show. Bang...., for yo buck, yo!



When I say "a small impact" I'm talking about hitting berms, pot holes or divots on the road during hard cornering. This is a common occurrence in socal roads and tracks.

[Wepeel]

Originally Posted by solidONE

Second is the change in the suspension geometry from changing the position of the strut relative to the to the knuckle, while top mounted plates will retain the strut-to-knuckle position.

Reducing the Included Angle actually has a positive affect - Included Angle (SAI minus wheel camber) results in losing camber through steering (it opposes the gain in camber due to caster), so a smaller Included Angle isn't a bad thing - the change isn't huge (probably small enough to ignore), but technically it exists.

Moving the strut tops inward does have the effect of raising the roll center, which could be desirable or not, depending. If you're lowered a lot it might be preferable to raise the roll center back up.

[Dezoris]

I am with Mike @CSG Mike on this. I ran the crash bolt on the top of the strut, difficult to align and had to re-align after several autox. The Whitle bolt (re-packaged SPC) was more of the same, had to re-align 4x since install. Mind you this was from harder driving.

Using these bolts on both top and bottom is not something I would ever consider, and if you did you absolutely want to use thread lock on both bolts and check TQ monthly.

Lastly those SPC bolts IMO are low quality hardware. There is no excuse for $30 bolts completely turning to rust after 6 months. Here is a picture of stock bolt compared. Whenever I see an SPC suspension piece I think wow that's affordable, but chances are this is the fine print.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by solidONE

When I say "a small impact" I'm talking about hitting berms, pot holes or divots on the road during hard cornering. This is a common occurrence in socal roads and tracks.

If you draw a free body diagram of the forces of an impact with a berm or pothole under hard cornering, you'll see that it's going to be almost completely a vertical load that is initially absorbed by the suspension.

Damn, it's like I'm back in high school agian. Ironically, its a class that I slept through, and had a teacher that always threw markers at me. He also was the teacher for 3 other classes I had... and now codes for Blizzard.

/randomblurb

[Wepeel]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

Lastly those SPC bolts IMO are low quality hardware. There is no excuse for $30 bolts completely turning to rust after 6 months. Here is a picture of stock bolt compared. Whenever I see an SPC suspension piece I think wow that's affordable, but chances are this is the fine print.

I had the exact same experience with the SPC bolts. On for less than a year, and I had to basically destroy it to remove it. The bolt actually removed fine, but I had to bang the living crap out of to get it out. Like it rusted to the knuckle.