Raybestos Rotors?

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by finch1750

142k miles on the clock lol

Yeah, for DD and canyons I loved them. Im gonna try the Stoptech Sports for daily in hopes of getting better rotor life, but if it isnt a big improvement in that area I'll prob just go back.

funny you mention.. I've a set of these stoptechs waiting to rub against some new rotors lol

I've had good luck with them in the past as dd pads. the hc+800 bite harder IIRC

[strat61caster]

Raybestos is reputable, I'm of the opinion that it's a lump of metal, as long as it doesn't have features that reduce rotor life like holes and excessive venting you'll probably be satisfied. My only point is the problems you experienced are 99% likely pad related, not rotors.

[Pat]

Listen to this guy^^^.
Rather than making a decision based on your "gut feeling", look at data and facts. They will point you in the right direction.
If you're going to maintain the OEM disc dimensions and you want good value, go with Centrics. I can't tell you how good the Raybestos are, but I expect they are of high quality. Regardless, even if they are the best discs of OEM dimensions, they likely are not worth the price premium over Centric.
If you want better performance from your brakes and think you'll get it by going from one disc to another, both of OEM dimensions, you're barking up the wrong tree. Assuming you don't have air in the lines, 90% of what you'll feel is in the pad compound.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Raybestos is reputable, I'm of the opinion that it's a lump of metal, as long as it doesn't have features that reduce rotor life like holes and excessive venting you'll probably be satisfied. My only point is the problems you experienced are 99% likely pad related, not rotors.

I'm sure it's a combination of both pad and rotor. these lumps of metal are not exactly identical. Total thickness size and shape of vanes must have at least a little effect, not to mention the composition of the materials as well as quality of casting and tolerances. We shall see, cause I ordered me a set of rayspestos rotors front and rear last night.

Originally Posted by Pat

Listen to this guy^^^.
Rather than making a decision based on your "gut feeling", look at data and facts. They will point you in the right direction.
If you're going to maintain the OEM disc dimensions and you want good value, go with Centrics. I can't tell you how good the Raybestos are, but I expect they are of high quality. Regardless, even if they are the best discs of OEM dimensions, they likely are not worth the price premium over Centric.
If you want better performance from your brakes and think you'll get it by going from one disc to another, both of OEM dimensions, you're barking up the wrong tree. Assuming you don't have air in the lines, 90% of what you'll feel is in the pad compound.

Rayspestos "professional" front rotors are $32 and the rear is just $25 a piece from parts geek. Can you find centrics lower than that price
?

Also there is no "data and facts" showing performance difference between OE and Centrics rotors. At least none that I know of. so either way we are basing a lot on assumption, both that they are just lumps of metal and there is no difference or one is better than the other. I admittedly dont have good data, but at least I have some data and hand on experience.

Again I'm not here to prove anything either way. Only want to know raybestos is any good. I'll soon find out.

[DarkSunrise]

Originally Posted by solidONE

I'm sure it's a combination of both pad and rotor. these lumps of metal are not exactly identical. Total thickness size and shape of vanes must have at least a little effect, not to mention the composition of the materials as well as quality of casting and tolerances. We shall see, cause I ordered me a set of rayspestos rotors front and rear last night.



Rayspestos "professional" front rotors are $32 and the rear is just $25 a piece from parts geek. Can you find centrics lower than that price
?

Also there is no "data and facts" showing performance difference between OE and Centrics rotors. At least none that I know of. so either way we are basing a lot on assumption, both that they are just lumps of metal and there is no difference or one is better than the other. I admittedly dont have good data, but at least I have some data and hand on experience.

Again I'm not here to prove anything either way. Only want to know raybestos is any good. I'll soon find out.

Damn that's cheap for rotors! It doesn't seem like anyone's tried them here, but for that price they're worth a shot. Let us know what you think.

BTW I've tracked on PMU HC+800's and was really disappointed with the wear and fade. If you need a track pad, it's not worth messing around with HC+800, Stoptech, HP+, or any of the "hybrid" pads. You're better off biting the bullet and getting something like a Carbotech XP10/12 (or Club Racer/999, DTC60/70, etc.)

Also keep an eye on your dust boots. If you're putting that much heat into your brakes, the boots will start melting/sticking and potentially cause the pistons to bind.

[ZionsWrath]

Make sure the rears are vented and not the solid disc

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by DarkSunrise

Damn that's cheap for rotors! It doesn't seem like anyone's tried them here, but for that price they're worth a shot. Let us know what you think.

BTW I've tracked on PMU HC+800's and was really disappointed with the wear and fade. If you need a track pad, it's not worth messing around with HC+800, Stoptech, HP+, or any of the "hybrid" pads. You're better off biting the bullet and getting something like a Carbotech XP10/12 (or Club Racer/999, DTC60/70, etc.)

Also keep an eye on your dust boots. If you're putting that much heat into your brakes, the boots will start melting/sticking and potentially cause the pistons to bind.

Right?! I'll let you guys know. Maybe even bust out the calipers and take some pictures to show any difference or lack there-of.

Been there.. I've been hoarding this set of club racer pads waiting for me to return to the track for longer than I'd care to admit. The stoptechs are for dd and some light, infrequent canyon diving that I get to do.

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

Make sure the rears are vented and not the solid disc

Well if they dont arrive looking like the picture they'll be getting them back right away.
https://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?i=1&ss...bestos&x=0&y=0

[Pat]

Originally Posted by solidONE

Rayspestos "professional" front rotors are $32 and the rear is just $25 a piece from parts geek. Can you find centrics lower than that price
?

Wow, that's cheap. So maybe the value is as good as Centric. I say go for it. But don't count on your braking performance to be improved versus Centric or OEM.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Pat

Wow, that's cheap. So maybe the value is as good as Centric. I say go for it. But don't count on your braking performance to be improved versus Centric or OEM.

While I expect 0 difference to stopping power, I do hope they run slightly cooler. Not counting on it. They are OEM replacements, after all. nothing fancy about them.

On this downhill run that I do, the centrics tend to heat up pretty good at the end of it if I'm going a decent pace. More so than when I still had the OEM rotors (paired with stock and stoptechs pads). not to the point of smoking the pads but hotter according to IR pyrometer. If these do even slightly better I'd be pleased, but I can't be surprised if they heated up just as bad. Fingers crossed. Stand by for feedback, sirs.

[solidONE]

Got the brake rotors today just 4 days after ordering. Bad news is the front rotors do not look like they were meant for the FRS/BRZ. The rear rotors, though, looks like they fit correctly.




Mad in Italy



Also Had a chance to compare the OEM rotors to the Centrics. Did not bother to measure or weigh.. they look virtually identical save for the "Made in Japan" on the OEM rotor.

Centric top OEM bottom

[solidONE]

The rears are the correct part. Looks of excellent quality. All edges chamfered, nice finish.









Chamfering and finish



As far as the front rotor goes. It seem the part number on the box is correct but the actual rotor is not the right one. Rotor diameter is listed as 11.54" diameter. The rotor that was in the box measures under 11.25"


OEM


Already contacted Partsgeek CS department. Hopefully they straighten things out for me. Their return policy sux BTW.

EDIT 4/10/18

Partsgeek issued full refund including shipping charges. Summit racing sells the same 980985R Raysbestos part for $5 bux more a piece, but I'm afraid the same thing will happen as the come from the same fulfillment center that wholesales brake parts. Meawhile, I'll mount the rears and new stoptech pads to all 4 corners.

Will get some baseline temps using my current glazed Centric fronts with new pads. After I figure out how to get the raysbestos fronts I'll take temps with those using the same set of pads. Otherwise I'll pick up a set of OEM rotors and compare the temps on those instead. Not exactly new for new comparo, but its something.

Prices of replacement rotors: (to be fair the stock rotors have anticorrosion coating on the hat the OE repacements are the cheaper non coated versions of each brand.)
OEM = $55 https://parts.toyotaofnashua.com/oem...iABEgIUTfD_BwE
Centric (C-tech)= $27 https://www.amazon.com/Centric-Parts.../dp/B001O957TK
Raybestos (Pro)= $33 https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...ad=47433949212

[solidONE]

I had to look for an alternative vendor that I can be sure does not drop ship from this same warehouse used by partsgeek. Rockauto had 2 in stock, fortunately.

They came through. Just a couple bux more per rotor ($35 ea.)

Same part number but this time the correct part was inside.

This time no "Made in Italy" stamped

Same good quality as the others.




Side note: The rear stoptech pads I ordered were wrong as well (for non vented disc), so I decided to install my old set of HC+800 instead along with the glazed Centric front rotors. After a canyon run it laid down a nice layer on the rotors. Looks good, not glazed and polished. Will record some temps using these then again with the new Raybestos front rotors in the picture. Will report what I find. Visually though... they look 95% identical to OE and Centric in terms dimensions. Finish looks good, but I doubt it will matter couple thousand miles in.


Edit:

Centric front rotors, Raybestos rear rotors, HC+800 pads all around.
Ambient air: 64*f

Starting Rotor Temps:
(measured opposite side of caliper location on mating surface)

Front Rotor: 174*f
Rear Rotor: 153*f


Rotor temp at end of run:

Front Rotor: 680*f (front pad were smoking at this temp)
Rear Rotor: 489*f

note:
Pads also squeak under light brake pedal pressure despite having a decent transfer layer. Not too bad but is somewhat annoying.

4-28 run:
Ambient air: 54*f

Starting Rotor Temps:

Front Rotor: 231*f
Rear Rotor: 160*f


Rotor temp at end of run:

Front Rotor: 730*f (little to no smoke this time.)
Rear Rotor: 476*f

note:
nice layer smeared on all rotors but still squeaky under light pedal pressure. Did not smoke after stopping at the end of run. likely already burned off what was making it smoke the first time.

Raybestos rotors front and rear. 1st run on front rotors. Same pmu pads. 5-3-18

Ambient air: 54*f

Starting Rotor Temps:

Front Rotor: 219*f
Rear Rotor: 151*f


Rotor temp at end of run:

Front Rotor: 494*f (WUUUUUUT??!)
Rear Rotor: 463*f

Note: Did bed in procedure hours before arriving at starting point and taking starting temps. 6/10 safe but quick pace as usual. The temp of the front rotor face was surprisingly a few hundred degrees *f lower than on the old centric rotors. The initial result is unexpected.. Will have to do a couple more runs to confirm.

I will possibly remount the centric front rotor and test some more using more simplified method. Perhaps a simple procedure like 100mph to full stop x2 or something that will produce more consistent repeatable results.

[solidONE]

Centric front rotors, Raybestos rear rotors, HC+800 pads all around.
Ambient air: 64*f



Starting Rotor Temps:
(measured opposite side of caliper location on mating surface)

Front Rotor: 174*f
Rear Rotor: 153*f


Rotor temp at end of run:

Front Rotor: 680*f (front pad were smoking at this temp)
Rear Rotor: 489*f

note:
Pads also squeak under light brake pedal pressure despite having a decent transfer layer. Not too bad but is somewhat annoying.



4-28 run:
Ambient air: 54*f

Starting Rotor Temps:

Front Rotor: 231*f
Rear Rotor: 160*f


Rotor temp at end of run:

Front Rotor: 730*f (little to no smoke this time.)
Rear Rotor: 476*f

note:
nice layer smeared on all rotors but still squeaky under light pedal pressure. Did not smoke after stopping at the end of run. likely already burned off what was making it smoke the first time.

Raybestos rotors front and rear. 1st run on front rotors. Same pmu pads. 5-3-18
Ambient air: 54*f




Starting Rotor Temps:

Front Rotor: 219*f
Rear Rotor: 151*f


Rotor temp at end of run:

Front Rotor: 494*f (WUUUUUUT??!)
Rear Rotor: 463*f

Note: Did bed in procedure hours before arriving at starting point and taking starting temps. 6/10 safe but quick pace as usual. The temp of the front rotor face was surprisingly a few hundred degrees *f lower than on the old centric rotors. The initial result is unexpected.. Will have to do a couple more runs to confirm.



Raybestos Run 2 5-8-2018:

Ambient air: 69*f

Starting Rotor Temps:

Front Rotor: 217*f
Rear Rotor: 192*f


Rotor temp at end of run:

Front Rotor: 584*f
Rear Rotor: 487*f

Note: I went up the mountain right at sunset purposely during warmer ambient temps to see if the Raybestos rotors will get hotter in warmer conditions than the centrics did earlier. Also went at a slightly quicker pace down the run to require slightly more braking pressure. The discoloration from the heat looks pretty cool. Sad part is a lot of that cool color change will be covered in rust soon enough, I think. Still squeaky, if not worse after the run..

This is does not prove that centric rotors run hotter than OE rotors but does indicate that maybe.., just maybe they run hotter than the Raybestos brand rotor (and possibly OE) for whatever reason, even though dimensions of the rotors look pretty much identical. Maybe they are not just lumps of metal and all the same. Then again.. maybe all that rust and the rust preventative coating on my old centrics are causing them to trap more heat?


I will possibly remount the centric front rotor and test some more using more simplified method. Perhaps a simple procedure like 100mph to full stop x2 or something that will produce more consistent repeatable results.

Edit 100-0 Test 5-16-18:

Raybestos rotors + HC+800 pads

Ambient: 65*f

Starting rotor temps:

Front rotor 95*f
Rear rotor 90*f

100-0 x1:

Front rotor 220*f
Rear rotor 145*f

100-0 x2:

Front rotor 345*f
Rear rotor 181*f

[churchx]

solidONE: i see that at least cooling vane/slot count differs for them. No clue from pics on internal shape. As all are iron, cannot think from where difference may come. There is no dirt trapped in vanes of old rotors that may block air passage by chance? Hmm. Or rust (inside vanes, where pads won't clear it) .. out of curiosity, what do you think of soaking old rotors in some rust removing solution applied inside vanes & recheck temps on old centrics after such procedure?