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Old 09-28-2020, 07:44 AM   #57
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Tilton ST246 is installed. Was not very convienient to pull the transmission of the LS in the tiny 86 tunnel. But lowering the crossmember and releasing also the engine mounts a little made it possible somehow. Surprisingly the old clutch disc didnt look too bad, but the flywheel und pressure plate werent in a good shape.

The clutch itself was a pretty straight forward install. The provided centering tool was OK, but will not work without further manual correction by just having it in place during the install. Its made of plastic, not strong or precise enough (in the Pilot bearing) to do the job without further help. But I think this is a pretty common issue with most centering tools included in clutch kits, even OEM.

A big plus of the Tilton slave cylinder is that it comes not only with pre installed 4AN lines but also with a bleeder assembly of very good quality. I prolonged the bleeder line with another 4AN line and routed the bleeder right next to the clutch fluid reservoir. For bleeding the clutch one can simply connect a short hose to the bleeder and let it drain back into the reservoir. So air can be pumped out without wasting tons of fluid. The line to the master cylinder was long enough that I could adapt it directly to the piece of OEM line I use as a close radius adapter to my Camaro OEM master.

I also installed the base plate of my new custom short shifter to the transmission. Since I´m still waiting for some parts beeing manufactured for this assembly, this is also the reason I wasn´t able to test drive the car yet. I just was able to roll out of the shop to the garage with 1st gear selected static. But so far I can say there is no added noise by this 2 disc system.

As well the inertia seems a little lower than OEM and the engine revs a little quicker while the weight isnt that much less than the OEM clutch and flywheel. But that was expected and I´m absolutely fine with that since the engine is ideling with this clutch as with OEM clutch. For the two slow starts I did yet it also feels like a very controlable and streetable clutch. No stick/slip effect, no rough engagement.

Only thing is that I´m now thinking about changing to a Tilton master also, since I had to reduce the pedal travel massively according to the installation instrutions to prevent overstrocking the slave cylinder. This is clearly a topic caused by my attempt to use the Tilton 6000 slave with a OEM master cylinder. A master cylinder with slightly smaler bore than the OEM Camaro one should be better, since not full travel of the pedal itself is used now, but therefore the pedal is stiffer than it would need to be. Unfortunately I dont know the bore diameter of the OEM master cylinder.

Here are some pics of the install:


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Old 09-30-2020, 06:20 PM   #58
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The ShortShifter is in! Yeah!



Unfortunately, one part is not quite as planned. The machine shop didn't finish the part with the ball head, that finally goes into the gearbox, soon enough. So we improvised it in the garage by modifing the corresponding part of the old shifter. Although that old ball head is still a bit undersized and the shift lever still has some play due to that, it is already worlds better than the GTO shifter. Also the neutral position makes a much better impression, because the additional spring from the shifter doesn't interfere anymore.

So the first prototype is directly functional. I will optimize some of the fits for possible replicas. Otherwise the only "problem" is that I will have to rename the thing to "UltraShort-Shifter". It takes a bit of getting used to at first, but once you've made a few gear changes and even more after you've shifted to redline for the first time and then fly through the gears, it's great. Yes, you need a bit more force now because of the ratio for shortened travel, but I think it's absolutely within acceptable limits.



So, I also was able to drive the new clutch now. The driveability is great, in fact almost like an original clutch. You can also slowly engage. Only negative point that now, with some breaking-in, clearly noises are to be heard while ideling and under low speed WOT. However, it is still well below the level of many other sport clutches Ive heared. Nevertheless I have a tear in my eye, because it is a step away from the OEM feeling, as I feared. But the main thing now is that the clutch does its job for a resonable time. If I dont "escalate" completely with the further conversions so that the output power doesn't allow this in the meantime, the next try will be the to use a LS7 OEM clutch.

Little update: Noise is within accepteble range in upper gears while cruising with low rpm. Only 4th gear (due to 1:1 ratio) is pretty load up to 2k rpm. Ideling noise is not that bad as I thought first. Could be accepteble if it stays like that.

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Old 10-31-2020, 06:47 PM   #59
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The car looks pretty chaotic once again. Unfortunately, I didn't quite finish today and will have to clean up the mess tomorrow. Luckily you can't see the rest of the garage...



On the program for today was the completion of the ShortShifter. The last parts arrived this week and I also put some other, a little bit tighter bushings into the linkage since I was not fully satisfied with the first version. I have to say that I really love the OEM Look the integration has now. And it's a perfect seal to the outside and also to the shift linkage.



With this verion, zero changes are required to the tunnel opening for the shifter and the parts around it any longer. I'm a bit annoyed now that I cut mine for the old GTO shifter version...

Shifter position with the Magnum F is 80mm behind the Magnum F receptacle center and alligns perfect with the OEM shifter Position and liner now. GTO Shifter Was a pretty good match, but still slightly to far back. (Was 87mm) The design of the new short shifter is scalable, so it could also be changed for other shifter distances/mount sets. For users of the Sikky mounts for example the shifter would need to be arround 60mm behind the Magnum F receptacle to achieve the OEM position, Vorshlag should be some where arround 95mm. Both would be possible. The 80mm Version of the shifter I personaly use should fit the CX mounts in 2nd hole (according to @spitsnaugle) and of course my own mount Set.
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Old 12-03-2020, 02:16 PM   #60
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I'm on finalization of the project. New parts for final dress up are ordered, here are some CAD preview pics. I also decided to wrap the valve Covers with carbon lock foil. Somehow the cluster cover came in between...

This badge is for the fender Covers and I think I will metalize and chrome coat them:







Big brake kit is still backordered. Waiting for 7 months now. Hope it will be delivered some day. Last big point on my list will be the carbon drive shaft to get rid of vibrations over 260kph. Also I learned a further LS-lesson: The brand new GM balancer already failed. Those units obvioisly tend to to fail as I learned and as well they dont like high rpm. I assume my first extented drift day sent it. No catastrophic failure, but it has a pretty clear wobbling of the outer shell. So I now will spend the money I should have spent right away and go for an ATI balancer.
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Old 12-09-2020, 03:11 AM   #61
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Getting close to the finish line for this project and the complete swap-kit. Still some paint work to do. Unfortunately a few parts need further revision. Not everything did fit right away this time. Some more money burned for development...









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Old 12-09-2020, 12:48 PM   #62
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I can't wait to see videos of this thing driving around
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Old 12-09-2020, 05:35 PM   #63
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There is already at least a kind of a little preview...

Its meant as a little joke/parody of German TV show, but the second half the video should be nonverbal. There are hours of raw material Im working on as I have some time left over. But in the last 3 month I didnt manage to get more then about 30min finalized. I think the full Video will be arround 50min. But I hope I will have some time finish during the holidays to make it not läßt another 3 month.

You can check out my channel for the other videos which are already out. Link is in my signature.

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Old 12-10-2020, 07:33 PM   #64
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I noticed those coolant connectors you used right next to the one pulley....just saw them on a land rover. So interesting how they stay sealed...by one small oring. Not a common item in the USA.



Def interested in your kit. So put my name down somewhere since I aint on the board all the time and DM me.


From a CNC machinist your engineering and CAD design is great for an OEM finish!
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Old 12-11-2020, 12:59 AM   #65
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I noticed those coolant connectors you used right next to the one pulley....just saw them on a land rover. So interesting how they stay sealed...by one small oring. Not a common item in the USA.



Def interested in your kit. So put my name down somewhere since I aint on the board all the time and DM me.


From a CNC machinist your engineering and CAD design is great for an OEM finish!
Thanks for the compliment!

The connectors you are mentioning are actualy a OEM part. This heater line can be found on some oder GM models like the G8 or Commodore. Since this line is for oder models it will be backordered if you purchase it at the GM dealer. So I searched for an aftermarket source and found one with Mackay.

The line still needs some slight modification to connect to the heater ports on the firewall. You can check out the part number in the material list. You can find the list in post #1. I listed the GM part# as well as the Mackay part#.
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Old 12-11-2020, 04:35 AM   #66
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Swap look great!

you might have to sell some of those 6.2 86 badges :P



I bought an L92 last year to convert in to an LS3 which i'll be swapping in to my 86 later next year. guess i'll be the 2nd LS swapped 86 in europe!


But in my case I think i'll be going with the Sikky swap kit to fit the engine/gearbox and then visiting Dynotorque over here to have them wire and tune it
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Old 12-11-2020, 01:58 PM   #67
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Swap look great!

you might have to sell some of those 6.2 86 badges :P



I bought an L92 last year to convert in to an LS3 which i'll be swapping in to my 86 later next year. guess i'll be the 2nd LS swapped 86 in europe!


But in my case I think i'll be going with the Sikky swap kit to fit the engine/gearbox and then visiting Dynotorque over here to have them wire and tune it
Nö, I dont think you are second. I was round about #10. I know about one in Italy, one CZ and at least 8 in Germany. There is a German company offering the swap for 50k€.

Wiring of that swap is easy as long as you use a E38 ECU and the AGT Translator. You can do it on your own. If you go that Route feel free to contact me. I can provide reviewed wiring documentation for the translator and wiring diagramms for the LS and the 86.

Sikky kit is a nice one, but to far backward in my opinion. The few mm doesnt realy impact balance but make lot of tunel deformation necessary. But it all comes down to the goal of your swap. If you're searching for another 0.01s on the track, the further back position is the route to go. For a daily I would chose another positioning as you can also achieve with the CX kit for example.

Concerning transmission position: there is no shifter distance which will realy fit OEM shifter Position besides GTO spec. But this requires F body trans and the GTO remote shifter, which is very sloppy. All other (more or less OEM) combinations result in insufficient shifter position or suboptimal engine position. Or you are in need of a GTO remote shifter or a custom remote shifter.

Sure, magnum XL can work, but engine will be very far forward. For a F body setup even Sikky engine Position is to far forward to use the receptacle directly. Or you are going to build a racer without interior, than F body receptacle and Sikky can work. Otherwise you need a remote shifter, but you can get one from Sikky also.

BTW, what tranny are you going to use?
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Old 12-11-2020, 05:14 PM   #68
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Nö, I dont think you are second. I was round about #10. I know about one in Italy, one CZ and at least 8 in Germany. There is a German company offering the swap for 50k€.

Wiring of that swap is easy as long as you use a E38 ECU and the AGT Translator. You can do it on your own. If you go that Route feel free to contact me. I can provide reviewed wiring documentation for the translator and wiring diagramms for the LS and the 86.

Sikky kit is a nice one, but to far backward in my opinion. The few mm doesnt realy impact balance but make lot of tunel deformation necessary. But it all comes down to the goal of your swap. If you're searching for another 0.01s on the track, the further back position is the route to go. For a daily I would chose another positioning as you can also achieve with the CX kit for example.

Concerning transmission position: there is no shifter distance which will realy fit OEM shifter Position besides GTO spec. But this requires F body trans and the GTO remote shifter, which is very sloppy. All other (more or less OEM) combinations result in insufficient shifter position or suboptimal engine position. Or you are in need of a GTO remote shifter or a custom remote shifter.

Sure, magnum XL can work, but engine will be very far forward. For a F body setup even Sikky engine Position is to far forward to use the receptacle directly. Or you are going to build a racer without interior, than F body receptacle and Sikky can work. Otherwise you need a remote shifter, but you can get one from Sikky also.

BTW, what tranny are you going to use?

Planning to use the CD009 gearbox, t56's are just crazy money for me, we have alot less US import over here than you guys in Germany so i'd end up paying more for a T56 then I did the engine.


I don't have any ECU or Wiring with my engine so going standalone is probably easier at this point.


The main choice for choosing Sikky is they developed their kit with a RHD option which none of the others cater for, they've also advised there's no need to affect the trans tunnel at all, simply remove the gearbox mount brace and advise to slightly relocate a couple of brake lines. It was their attitude towards catering for us lot with RHD which sold me on them, not sure what CX's stance on it is but i know Vorshlag's is simply "if you're RHD, just dont buy our product"



Didn't know there were so many over there!
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Old 12-12-2020, 03:16 AM   #69
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Ok, when you go with a CD009 it might be possible that you dont have to deform the tunnel. But I dont can realy say anything about that since Im using a T56.

The T56 is also very rare in Germany. Further it is known as a sloppy gearbox from what ive heard and the OEM ratios are not realy optimal. So I went with a brand new T56 Magnum F close ratio. Its much stronger then the production T56, has optimal rarios and shifts pretty good once the oil is warm. Concerning price I didnt feel that its too expensive. Including bellhousing, transportation and customs arround 4k Euro. With the current exchange rate it might be even less.

I've heard about the RHD question. But after I did a kit myself Im asking if this is a myth. The drivetrain is located in the exact same position for LHD and RHD. The difference on the car is firewall, dashboard and stearing column are mirrord and battery and power break are exchanged. I dont see any difference for the engine and trans bracket, they should be exactly same in order to maintain proper driveshaft angle. The complete drivetrain Position of the OEM drivetrain is identical between LHD and RHD vehicles from all what I know. There are also no multiple part # available for LHD and RHD Version of those components touching the drivetrain.

The only Real difference is, that you need headers which pass the steraing column on the left and not on the right side. Sure, also some brakets for clutch master and other stuff mounted to the firewall might change. But I dont know any kit which includes such stuff.

I might be wrong since I didnt do a LHD swap, but I would say that there isnt much of a difference talking about the engine and trans position.

Sure, if I was a company selling a kit, I also would say that its not suitable for LHD as long as I didnt test it. The difference is that Sikky has a full CAD Model with LHD and RHD components available what gives the possibility to check fitment for both in CAD. But again, the only Real difference is the steering column beeing on the left. So in the end it is only a question of the headers you use, not of the mount kit you are buying.

In my case I also might have to change the clutch master bracket, clutch reservoir bracket, the valve cover trim and possibly the AC line adapter. But not the base components of the kit. I would realy expect them to work also on LHD.

Concerning headers: LHD might even be a little easier when it comes to routing along the sterring column. Due to the driveshaft angle the whole powertrain is tilted a little to the left. This means you should have a few millimeters (realy only a few) more to go by the column. As well, you dont have column, brake lines and fuel lines on the same side. The only down side is, that the starter of the LS is located on the right. But you might anyway get space trouble if you use one of the big old style starters. The later versions are smaller and pretty compact.

Concerning pricing again: If you dont have a harness, buy a OEM one and modify to your needs. If you know how to solder two lines correctly its not that hard. I would look for a used Camaro engine harness and a E38. Sure, the E38 doesnt give the same freedom as a free programmable ECU, but it is surprisingly close. As long as you dont plan to freak out completely and go nitro or turbo it should be very adequat to suit the needs. As well, combined with AGT translator its by far the best bang for the bug if you ask me. Also, it is the best OEM style Integration. I have to say that this solution worked perfect and flawlessly for me.
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Old 12-12-2020, 09:57 AM   #70
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