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Old 12-20-2013, 06:29 AM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiefG View Post
First off, major to F1point4 for this awesome DIY. People like you make this forum great, and I can appreciate the time and effort that went into photographing your DYI and doing the write-up.

I'm pretty much sold on this cam and the power-magic unit.

During my install of my aftermarket head unit and back-up cam, while soaking up all I could from the forum, I came across a post about the "option connector." (and now I can't find the post )

The option connector is an unused white connector behind the radio toward the passenger (LH drive vehicles) side. That connector contains a ground, 1 accessory-fused socket, and 1 battery-fused socket. There are a couple others, but you'll only be interested in those three. I think there's even a guy on the forum who can supply you with a connector and harness to plug in to that option connector. A big plus is that it is very near the glove compartment. If you use this connector you can save a LOT of work, not to mention you won't have to use an Add-A-Circuit or go anywhere near the fuse box or the driver's side and you won't be left with a fuse box cover dangling open or strapped up with wire ties.

I plan to put the Power Magic unit under the dash mounted to the roof of the glove compartment, or somewhere in the vicinity. It will be in an accessible spot where I can operate the switch if necessary. Using that connector, the wiring run will be easier as well.

Here's a photo (below) of the option connector. It's the white 6-pin connector in the lower-right center of the picture. Use a test light to find the accessory and battery-fused circuits. If you want, put a 1-amp inline fuse in your accessory and battery leads.

If you use this option connector to tap power, you can run your cam cables under the headliner, down the passenger side A-pillar, and behind the dash. The dash panels and radio are very easy to remove. Gently pry the dash panel and radio surround panel out from the bottom. Protect the plastic with a piece of paper and use a panel removal tool, not a screwdriver. Four bolts hold the radio in. You'll need a 10mm socket and extension. Piece of cake.

You should be able to find some narrow crimp-on bayonet connectors that will plug in to the option connector.



There's some good info here: http://ae64.com/Rear-camera-16p-operation.htm

Here's ae64's picture of the connector:

Hey Chief, thanks for the heads up on the option connector.
its D29 if anyone is looking at the wiring diagram.
We have this same plug in our Australian delivered 86's.
The connector needed is Aerpro AP1761, which i picked up online, but can apparently be had quite easily in local auto parts stores.
It is sold as a 2 pack of iso harnesses, so I removed Battery, Accessory and Ground wires from teh 12 pin harness, and put them into the appropriate slots in the male option plug.

Pin 1 is ground
Pin 2 is Battery 12v
Pin 6 is Accessory 12v.
Currently my PMP is mounted behind the accessory light dimmer/boot release on the drivers side(RHD model) with the socket running to the glove box. I think I will leave the PMP where it is, and do a tidy little cable run under the steering column, simply for ease, and I can easily reach PMP where it is currently.

looking forward to closing up my cabins fuse box again!!
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Old 12-30-2013, 06:21 PM   #170
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Has anyone had issues with the Power Magic? I've tried setting the cutoff to 11.8V and 12V; both settings leave my car without enough power to start.

edit: seems strange that the car wouldn't crank with 12 volts. While I was trying to get it to start I hit the 12v threshold since the camera announced it was shutting down as I tried to start the car.
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Old 12-31-2013, 07:36 AM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feedbag View Post
Has anyone had issues with the Power Magic? I've tried setting the cutoff to 11.8V and 12V; both settings leave my car without enough power to start.

edit: seems strange that the car wouldn't crank with 12 volts. While I was trying to get it to start I hit the 12v threshold since the camera announced it was shutting down as I tried to start the car.
Stock Battery? Yes I've had it die on me at 12v. I don't think the stock battery likes being discharged to 12v repeatedly. I eventually replaced it with a dual purpose battery.

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Old 12-31-2013, 10:04 AM   #172
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Stock battery dies very very fast. I just replaced mine with an Optima yellow top and in the morning my battery was 12.9v. My camera was in parking mode all night. With the stock battery my power magic pro would turn off my camera and my voltage would go below 12v.
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:31 AM   #173
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Yep, stock battery. I guess I'll set a time limit for now and look into a different battery. Does anyone know if the FT-86 SpeedFactory lightweight battery would have better capacity / allow me to start the engine once its dropped to 12v?
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Old 12-31-2013, 04:36 PM   #174
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Thanks for the heads-up on this. I have my PMP module set for 12 hours and 12v, and I shut off parking mode when I'm parked in my driveway or garage. I do wish there was more choice in the power setting.
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Old 04-12-2014, 12:59 AM   #175
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Did you have any issues with removing the low profile mini from the fusebox? I try removing the fuse with hands and also a fuse remover but couldn't. How did you end up taking it out?
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Old 04-12-2014, 05:43 AM   #176
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I used a screwdriver to lever it out.
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Old 04-18-2014, 12:04 AM   #177
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Looking for some advice here. Tried TAIL lights (yellow wire) and P/Point1 (red wire) with the wires to the mini a fuse legs but it didn't power up...

I'm looking for another CONSTANT ON fuse with 10a to connect the yellow wire to.

Other than the 7.5a STOP, what else can I use? ECU ACC #1 ?

nvm: got it figured out! thanks OP for diy

Last edited by illicitstylz; 04-18-2014 at 03:09 PM.
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Old 04-18-2014, 03:46 AM   #178
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On the option connector, D29, behind the head unit, there is batt and acc.
It's on an interior circuit on 20A I think.
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Old 04-20-2014, 03:00 AM   #179
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Installed my DR500GW today with the help of this guide, a few things to note that I did differently:

I got low profile mini add-a-fuse, with 5A fuses from here:

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0MWPXU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Amazon.com: FAST Shipping* ADD-A-CIRCUIT BLADE STYLE ATM APS ATT LOW PROFILE MINI FUSE HOLDER FUSE TAP + 5AMP FUSE: Car Electronics[/ame]

And I tapped the LH heated seat circuit for the red (on when car is on) and the OBD circuit for the always on.

I was able to seat the grounding wire/fork very deeply by bending the forks to increase the distance in between them.

Thanks for the guide!!!
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Old 04-24-2014, 09:26 AM   #180
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I'm not sure that A pillar wiring is best practice as it's looped around the air bag.

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Old 05-03-2014, 02:56 PM   #181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Sentinel View Post
I'm not sure that A pillar wiring is best practice as it's looped around the air bag.




It should be fine. There are already wires in the A pillar. Just secure the new wiring to the existing wires and it would not get caught if the airbag deploys.


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Old 07-06-2014, 04:01 PM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiefG View Post
First off, major to F1point4 for this awesome DIY. People like you make this forum great, and I can appreciate the time and effort that went into photographing your DYI and doing the write-up.

I'm pretty much sold on this cam and the power-magic unit.

During my install of my aftermarket head unit and back-up cam, while soaking up all I could from the forum, I came across a post about the "option connector." (and now I can't find the post )

The option connector is an unused white connector behind the radio toward the passenger (LH drive vehicles) side. That connector contains a ground, 1 accessory-fused socket, and 1 battery-fused socket. There are a couple others, but you'll only be interested in those three. I think there's even a guy on the forum who can supply you with a connector and harness to plug in to that option connector. A big plus is that it is very near the glove compartment. If you use this connector you can save a LOT of work, not to mention you won't have to use an Add-A-Circuit or go anywhere near the fuse box or the driver's side and you won't be left with a fuse box cover dangling open or strapped up with wire ties.

I plan to put the Power Magic unit under the dash mounted to the roof of the glove compartment, or somewhere in the vicinity. It will be in an accessible spot where I can operate the switch if necessary. Using that connector, the wiring run will be easier as well.

Here's a photo (below) of the option connector. It's the white 6-pin connector in the lower-right center of the picture. Use a test light to find the accessory and battery-fused circuits. If you want, put a 1-amp inline fuse in your accessory and battery leads.

If you use this option connector to tap power, you can run your cam cables under the headliner, down the passenger side A-pillar, and behind the dash. The dash panels and radio are very easy to remove. Gently pry the dash panel and radio surround panel out from the bottom. Protect the plastic with a piece of paper and use a panel removal tool, not a screwdriver. Four bolts hold the radio in. You'll need a 10mm socket and extension. Piece of cake.

You should be able to find some narrow crimp-on bayonet connectors that will plug in to the option connector.



There's some good info here: http://ae64.com/Rear-camera-16p-operation.htm

Here's SSVXdc's picture of the connector:

Quote:
Originally Posted by e11wa View Post
Hey Chief, thanks for the heads up on the option connector.
its D29 if anyone is looking at the wiring diagram.
We have this same plug in our Australian delivered 86's.
The connector needed is Aerpro AP1761, which i picked up online, but can apparently be had quite easily in local auto parts stores.
It is sold as a 2 pack of iso harnesses, so I removed Battery, Accessory and Ground wires from teh 12 pin harness, and put them into the appropriate slots in the male option plug.

Pin 1 is ground
Pin 2 is Battery 12v
Pin 6 is Accessory 12v.
Currently my PMP is mounted behind the accessory light dimmer/boot release on the drivers side(RHD model) with the socket running to the glove box. I think I will leave the PMP where it is, and do a tidy little cable run under the steering column, simply for ease, and I can easily reach PMP where it is currently.

looking forward to closing up my cabins fuse box again!!
@ChiefG and @e11wa I'm looking at purchasing the blackvue dr500gw hd dashcam and would really like to use the option connector you guys were speaking of. However, I'm kind of an electrical noob.
If I wire the camera with the power magic pro how exactly do I connect the wires into the option connector to ensure a good connection?
I found the wiring diagram but which pin location would which wire go into? I would really appreciate any help here as I really don't want to pay anyone to do this install and I would really like to keep all the wires hidden! Thanks!
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