Difficult 1st gear and almost grinds 2nd, oil problem?

[SCFD]

Originally Posted by Westen86

Im seeing more and more MTF2 sourcing issues. And BMW is saying to replace it with a DCT fluid (FFL-4), and some say the MTF-LT-2 is the new MTF2.

Upon digging and researching, which I love to do, I found this on Bimmerworld. A trusted source, and probably the best BMW people to find an MTF2 solution.

Redline MT-LV.
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Fluids/D...TLV-Quart.html

Not familiar with the Redline MT-LV but it looks like a really light oil and wonder if it will be okay for track usage. I'd probably try the Redline MTL for the BRZ before thinking of going to the MT-LV.

[Westen86]

Originally Posted by SCFD

Not familiar with the Redline MT-LV but it looks like a really light oil and wonder if it will be okay for track usage. I'd probably try the Redline MTL for the BRZ before thinking of going to the MT-LV.

MT-LV is a replacement for MTF2. Bimmerworld states its what you should use if that recommended FFL-4 fluid gets too notchy on track. And MTF2 comes in all the big manual BMW M cars.

[AutoNewb]

Originally Posted by Westen86

NOT FRSport.com!! Mine came from Ebay. Maybe a parts store, youll have to dig around. Or go straight to BMW or Hyundai. Theyll more than likely have to order it. Hyundai uses it for the Manual Genesis I believe. Look it up.

Why not FRSport.com?

[Westen86]

Originally Posted by AutoNewb

Why not FRSport.com?

That was the first place I went for Pentosin. It took them 2 months to acknowledge that I placed an order only for them to say they didnt have Pentosin. Many others have been wronged by FRSport.

[AutoNewb]

Originally Posted by Westen86

That was the first place I went for Pentosin. It took them 2 months to acknowledge that I placed an order only for them to say they didnt have Pentosin. Many others have been wronged by FRSport.

Gotcha okay. Where would be a good place to get it then?

[Westen86]

Originally Posted by AutoNewb

Gotcha okay. Where would be a good place to get it then?

See previous post.

Originally Posted by Westen86

NOT FRSport.com!! Mine came from Ebay. Maybe a parts store, youll have to dig around. Or go straight to BMW or Hyundai. Theyll more than likely have to order it. Hyundai uses it for the Manual Genesis I believe. Look it up.

[HaXx]

Originally Posted by Westen86

See previous post.

im kind of just going through the OP's ordeal right now

i had my tob, clutch, and diff/mt fluids changed. he did the fluids with high performance motul gear 300. i hate performance stuff for daily cars. i HATE being forceful with my shift lever, but things inside the trans are only moving/warming up when the rear wheels are moving, so the only way to warm it up is just drive it.

thanks for your posts, ill look into the pentosin oil youve talked about

i continue to keep light load on the motor until its at operating temps, but i just hate having to be a little more forceful with the lever, it creeps me out.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by HaXx

im kind of just going through the OP's ordeal right now

i had my tob, clutch, and diff/mt fluids changed. he did the fluids with high performance motul gear 300. i hate performance stuff for daily cars. i HATE being forceful with my shift lever, but things inside the trans are only moving/warming up when the rear wheels are moving, so the only way to warm it up is just drive it.

thanks for your posts, ill look into the pentosin oil youve talked about

i continue to keep light load on the motor until its at operating temps, but i just hate having to be a little more forceful with the lever, it creeps me out.

I didn't like the motul gear 300 in my transmission. I have been running redline mt-90

Originally Posted by spcmafia

When I first got my car, even with only 12K miles on it, I replaced all of the drive train and engine fluids. I know, way too early, but the difference in shifting because obviously better after using Motul. I'm also very particular about my vehicle maintenance. I do have to agree that this transmission is very notchy and grindy, 1st, 2nd, and even 5th sometimes. After replacing said fluids, I also got a rear shift bushing from Perrin that made things a lot better. It's relatively cheap, and super easy to install.

Could you provide further details (eg model number) on your rear shift bushing and how it was better?

[SCFD]

I'm not sure if this is due to the fluid or if the transmission is still breaking in (currently at 6,700 km / 4,200 mi) but shift feel has improved over the past month and notchiness has seemed to have almost all gone away since changing to Ford Motorcraft MTF (75W90). Have to use some force getting into 1st and 2nd gear when cold at -8°C/17°F but didn't experience any notchiness.

[spcmafia]

Originally Posted by zippee

Could you provide further details (eg model number) on your rear shift bushing and how it was better?

https://www.perrin.com/shop/shifters...hifter-bushing

https://www.perrin.com/shop/drivetra...-mount-support

These are the two bushings you’ll need. Makes shifting smoothly with very little notching. Fairly easy to install, except for the transmission mount which require an extra jack, but each one should take half or one one depending on how mechanical savyy you are. That plus replacing the trans and LSD oils, you’ll notice the difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[vfrqqq]

Originally Posted by radroach

@zippee


I experienced poor shifting as parts started wearing out on my car. Things became noticeably worn out and are pretty easy to identify. Throwing new parts at it provided immediate results.

The clutch throw-out bearing is one of the first things I'd change out, if it hasn't already. I'm on my third throw-out bearing at 130,000 miles. I was getting grinds going into gear, shh-shh and tapping or vibration noises - all from this bearing. Here's a sound clip of my engine from over a year ago exhibiting noticeable tapping sounds before I took my car into the dealership for the engine / spring recall and had a new clutch throw-out bearing put in: https://voca.ro/1iC9k45HPQoS

The other part I think wears too much is the transmission mount. It is too soft, and after lots of miles and hard driving it gets sloppy, and the transmission / drivetrain bangs around and makes 1st-2nd gear shifts HELL. Either get a new transmission mount, or get a Whiteline "positive shift kit" which will reduce this movement. Huge improvement in shift-feel.

So, I recently replaced my stock manual transmission oil at about 68K miles in my 2014 BRZ (I know its way overdue ) with Motul Gear 300 75W90 oil. However, I'm now in about the first 100 miles after the oil change and I'm regularly experiencing hard shifts from 1st to 2nd, but also from 2nd to 3rd and even 3rd to 4th. The issue is more pronounced when changing gears at higher RPMs. That is, if I'm changing up through those gears at higher RPMs, I experience something like a half-second to a one-second delay before I can actually get into gear and let out the clutch. Howevere, I'm not necessarily experiencing any grinding, it just routinely takes that additional amount of time for the gear (the synchros?) to fully engage. It doesn't seem to get too much better as the transmission warms up, but I also haven't gone on an extended drive to test that out yet.

I'm considering a number of potential issues.

From searching the forum and the internet, it seems like GL-5 oil is generally not good for BRZ/FR-S transmissions because of the material composition of the synchros, but the Motul 300 LS from CounterSpace Garage says it is GL-4/GL-5 compatible. So I'm assuming that means its rated up to GL-5, but is also will work with transmissions that need GL-4, and that it presumably doesn't harm the transmission synchros. So I'm trying to first understand if maybe my new transmission oil is the issue or if these are separate issues that just happen to have started manifesting themselves. With that said, I can't imagine that CSG would have knowingly sold transmission oil they indicate is compatible with the BRZ that is not actually compatible or could harm the transmission, so I will assume this is more my lack of understand than that.

Along the lines of potentially separate issues, I've wondered if perhaps my clutch is not fully disengaging when the pedal is fully depressed. I have some evidence that this may be the cluprit as the issue seems to be a little less worse when I'm really mashing down the clutch pedal and might suggest a clutch adjustment or perhaps needing to replace the throwout bearing? But if that is the issue, my question is whether and why there would be a connection between that and a transmission oil change? I've also learned more about the benefits of installing a bushing for the rear transmission mount (e.g., whiteline, cusco), which seems to help stiffen up the transmission and can help greatly in getting back easy gear shifts, but again, I don't understand why needing to install something like that would become an issue all of the sudden after changing my transmission oil.

Any ideas on troubleshooting this further before I start dropping cash? Perhaps I'm thinking about the problem wrong?

[Capt Spaulding]

This is a scientific wild ass guess, but I am wondering if it has something to do with the "LS" suffix on your oil. Motul is not very forthcoming about the difference(s) between their Gear 300 and Gear 300 LS products. But, to my wee brain the LS signifies "Limited Slip" as in limited slip differential. In synchronized transmissions it's possible to have a lubricant that is too slippery. Synchronizers need a calibrated amount of friction to do their synchronizing thing and too slippery an oil will prevent them from working properly. My bet is your problem is there.

In my car I used Gear 300 (Non-LS) in the differential and Redline MT 90 in the transmission. Aside from my impression that the RL works better, I really can't figure out what Motul is doing here and am not interested in experimenting to find out.

[vfrqqq]

My mistake. It's Motul Gear 300 without the LS designation. The bottle says transmission and differential fluid.