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Old 09-07-2022, 01:12 AM   #4649
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Do you need AC? maybe go with one of those killachilla type heatexchanger things suppose to be able pre chill coolant down to freezing

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My idea currently it to change out the heat exchanger, add a secondary pump and put a reservoir in the trunk to increase capacity. Possibly replacing the fog lights on both sides with two exchangers leading to brake ducting. I don't have any issues with the Willwood 6-pot brakes overheating, but why not do it. Just hoping someone else here may have done some testing or parts swaps with data.
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Old 09-07-2022, 10:11 AM   #4650
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Do you need AC? maybe go with one of those killachilla type heatexchanger things suppose to be able pre chill coolant down to freezing
Good idea, but the plan is to eventually remove the A/C and heater core to save weight. I need to add some weight to the rear of the car at the same time, hence the remote tank.
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Old 09-07-2022, 01:31 PM   #4651
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My idea currently it to change out the heat exchanger, add a secondary pump and put a reservoir in the trunk to increase capacity. Possibly replacing the fog lights on both sides with two exchangers leading to brake ducting. I don't have any issues with the Willwood 6-pot brakes overheating, but why not do it. Just hoping someone else here may have done some testing or parts swaps with data.
Guessing I'm preaching to the choir but increased capacity only increases time to heat soak, doesn't directly reduce it (all else being equal). Although if the capacity is large enough one could argue it'll fix heat soak indirectly assuming the time to heat soak is greater than the use case.

Do you have any data on the intercooler coolant temp after it exits the heat exchanger? If not I'd start there as it's the only variable you'll be able to directly improve. If water temps aren't climbing but IAT's are it's an indicator the limiting factor is the heat exchanger within the charger itself.
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Old 09-07-2022, 02:41 PM   #4652
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@Colin86 All I can really do is hit it with my temp gun right now. I'm sure the efficiency of the front unit could be improved upon but at what cost to the rest of the cooling setup? Trying to find a good balance between more efficiency and reducing heat soak. I'm thinking longer lines to the rear should allow it to reach equilibrium at a lower temperature, dependent on volume among several other factors. It wouldn't be a huge impact, but would help with the 20 minute intervals for HPDE. Of course a full time fix would be much better. Possibly a secondary heat exchange setup. First step will probably be a better front core once I find one.
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Old 09-07-2022, 05:53 PM   #4653
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@Colin86 All I can really do is hit it with my temp gun right now. I'm sure the efficiency of the front unit could be improved upon but at what cost to the rest of the cooling setup? Trying to find a good balance between more efficiency and reducing heat soak. I'm thinking longer lines to the rear should allow it to reach equilibrium at a lower temperature, dependent on volume among several other factors. It wouldn't be a huge impact, but would help with the 20 minute intervals for HPDE. Of course a full time fix would be much better. Possibly a secondary heat exchange setup. First step will probably be a better front core once I find one.
The edelbrock heat exchanger is low temp, doubtful it'll negatively impact overall engine cooling in a meaningful way. Especially if you have the radiator/heat exchangers sealed against the bumper forcing air to flow through them. If you don't have them already, hood vents will help flow more air through the heat exchangers increasing efficiency.

Unless you want an ice box to drop temps below ambient, increased capacity won't buy you much other than increased weight/complexity imo. Best bet is to replace the heat exchanger with a larger unit that has more passes.

For what it's worth I monitored IAT's on track (20 minute HPDE sessions) when I first installed this years and years ago, and while I don't recall specifics... I never saw temps spiral out of control. Although it's always nice to have lower IAT's.
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Old 09-07-2022, 07:39 PM   #4654
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Once I jumped up to the 16lb pulley, the IATs change about 20 degrees, looking at larger hood vents as well.
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Old 09-07-2022, 10:31 PM   #4655
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Has anyone upgraded their air to water intercooler setup? Looking at potentially doing a better radiator, remote reservoir and upgraded pump.
Are you trying to lower burst or sustained IAT?
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Old 09-08-2022, 12:34 AM   #4656
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Once I jumped up to the 16lb pulley, the IATs change about 20 degrees, looking at larger hood vents as well.
Oh nice, what size is the 16 psi pulley? How's it feel? Any chance you have dyno numbers? Stock engine internals? E85 I assume?

I've considered swapping pulleys but haven't heard any others who've made the jump, and am afraid to blow the engine...

I run a vented hood and don't have hard data, but it's evident there's a considerable amount of heat evacuated.

Not surprised your IATs jumped with the increased boost. Curious to hear what options you go with to drop temps!

@CSG maybe you can make a plug and play solution?
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Old 09-08-2022, 10:21 AM   #4657
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@CSG Mike , lower sustained IATs. The longer I can keep it from rising it a plus though.
@Colin86 , my stock engine blew on the original pulley at 45k miles supercharged, just under 60k total. Replaced with IAG closed deck block, lowered compression to 12.1:1 through head gasket, and the 2.75" pulley (I think). I raised my redline to 8.2k by reworking the heads and valvetrain. Currently also looking at larger hood vents, just running two smaller verus vents right now. Coolant stays steady on track with a CSF radiator. It's tuned to run E85, but I have to drive over two hours away to actually get it, so it's not often. If your engine is gonna blow, it'll blow. Mine went while sitting on cruise control in 6th gear @ just over 75 mph. 3 hours into a drive and 60 miles from home.
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Old 09-08-2022, 10:25 AM   #4658
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Just had a thought, what about usi the heater core as a secondary exchanger and remove it from the engine coolant loop?
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Old 09-08-2022, 12:44 PM   #4659
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@ BT Broken rod I assume? IAG built engine treating you well so far? What headwork did you do?

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Just had a thought, what about usi the heater core as a secondary exchanger and remove it from the engine coolant loop?
The interior heater core? Are you considering leaving your heat on during track days? Probably not too difficult to setup, but I assume the interior heater core is fairly small.... and I wouldn't want hot air blowing on me during track days. lol
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Old 09-08-2022, 02:47 PM   #4660
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Two cylinders were completely destroyed, luckily the heads were ok. I think I had some bad gas with a serious misfire as the car bucked hard the moment the block made windows in the tops of the case halves. Heads were ported, radiused, +1mm intake and exhaust valves and ferrea valvetrain. No problems from the IAG block, but some mystery misfires at 7200 rpm. I usually have my heat on during track days, but don't think it's necessary for my setup.
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Old 09-08-2022, 05:00 PM   #4661
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Two cylinders were completely destroyed, luckily the heads were ok. I think I had some bad gas with a serious misfire as the car bucked hard the moment the block made windows in the tops of the case halves. Heads were ported, radiused, +1mm intake and exhaust valves and ferrea valvetrain. No problems from the IAG block, but some mystery misfires at 7200 rpm. I usually have my heat on during track days, but don't think it's necessary for my setup.
Yeah, afraid that'll happen to me one of these days.... but not today lol.

Any idea what kind of power you're laying down with your current setup? How's it compare to your C8 in a straight line?
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Old 09-08-2022, 05:44 PM   #4662
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@CSG Mike , lower sustained IATs. The longer I can keep it from rising it a plus though.
@Colin86 , my stock engine blew on the original pulley at 45k miles supercharged, just under 60k total. Replaced with IAG closed deck block, lowered compression to 12.1:1 through head gasket, and the 2.75" pulley (I think). I raised my redline to 8.2k by reworking the heads and valvetrain. Currently also looking at larger hood vents, just running two smaller verus vents right now. Coolant stays steady on track with a CSF radiator. It's tuned to run E85, but I have to drive over two hours away to actually get it, so it's not often. If your engine is gonna blow, it'll blow. Mine went while sitting on cruise control in 6th gear @ just over 75 mph. 3 hours into a drive and 60 miles from home.
I've seen great success from folks who added an auxiliary LTR off to the side, similar to how German cars do it.
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